249V 30A Control Box Build

[Krausen89]

Currently i am running a small heat element 1k-2k off a 120v 20amp( i think, i will have to check) with a basic SCR on a 15gal BK only doing 5 gal batches mostly BIAB with a false bottom covering the element. as of right now i am not getting a decent boil due to the weak element (and would like to make double batches as well) so i want to up it to 240v. my plan is to use 220v 30A 3prong outlet. and build a control box similar to Georges from Barley and Hops with the PID(video linked below). though i am going to purchase a dernord 5500w element with the ground screw instead of rigging one like i had in the past. everything is essentially going to be the same except i will be using this 30 amp receptacal in the control box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RCLBV2B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_18?smid=AUGXZ0G0QW47K&psc=1. using 10/2 cable with 12 or 14 for the lower amp portion.

I need to add a weldless thermowell to the kettle to make this work and im still trying to find one and decide how long. a shorter one i think would work just as well but i am not sure. also was thinking it might be beneficial to get a 1/2inch weldless bulkhead and then just buy one to fit that. any suggestions on these would be much appreciated.

Has anyone built these? any issues? suggestions?

Thanks in advance, Cheers! Andy

 

[Broken Crow]

Will you be recirculating? If so, and you're willing to keep it running through the whole process, you could avoid the worry of a thermowell poking your brew-bag, and intall a probe in a tee in the recirculation system.
BTW; you forgot to post the video link, but without seeing it, I can highly recommend the Auber PID's, and @Bobby_M 's 'True Bulkheads'
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1838.htmhttps://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

 

[Krausen89]

Thank you! i edited so video is now linked. i don't plan on recirculating, atleast during mashing. I will be adding it directly under the false bottom so no worries about catching up on the bag. i will def check them out!

 

[Bobby_M]

Use the Auber DSPR-120 control brain and get the PT100-L50M14 probe. It's already got a bulkhead built in.

 

[doug293cz]

The design that George shows works, but if the SSR fails in the "ON" state (the most common failure mode), there is no way to shut off the power to the element, other than unplugging while it is drawing full current.

Another potential issue is that most PIDs start up in the same mode as when they were shut down. Because of that, if you turn the controller power on before covering the element with liquid, you could dry fire your element. Also, even when the SSR is off, the element is still energized to 120V, so it can still be a shock hazard.

The following is a design which does not have the above potential problems. It uses a contactor in series with the SSR to allow removal of power from the element if the SSR fails. It also has a "safe start" interlock that prevents main power from from being turned on unless the element power switch and the pump switch are both off. This prevents accidental dry firing of the element, or the pump coming on unexpectedly. You can use any of the Auber EZBoil controllers from the DSPR120 or higher.

I agree with @Bobby_M that the Auber DSPR controllers are better choices than traditional PID controllers.

Brew on