Kenmore Keezer problem

[mcubed45]

Hey guys,

I have a Kenmore 8.8 freezer that I converted using a collar and a Love TSX3 controller about 5 years ago. A couple days ago my temp alarm went off and the temps have been slowly climbing. I've been trying to troubleshoot the freezer and determine if it's worth fixing or if I should just buy a new one and hopefully transfer my collar.

The compressor still turns on and runs appropriately but the inside of the freezer is only slightly cool and there is only a small section on the outside of the freezer that feels warm. Normally the entire body radiates heat while the compressor runs (condenser coils run throughout the body, there is no fan or coils near the compressor).

Although my temp controller seemed to be running normally, giving accurate readings, and trigger the compressor appropriately, I have now bypassed it. The freezer is basically in stock configuration using the stock thermostat and wiring. The compressor still kicks on and if activated, the freezers temp alarm triggers appropriately. The condenser line coming off the compressor is hot to the touch and the panel above the housing that the line runs into feels warm. However, that is still the only exterior portion of the freezer that feels warm (after several hours).

Any advice on troubleshooting? I'm thinking it's not electrical since the compressor turns on when it should. Low coolant/leak? There is some corrosion on the condenser line coming off the compressor. I'll upload a pic soon.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

My local sears does carry the newer version of the kenmore 8.8 for about $350 so if repair is too costly I might just buy that. I still have to go and measure the dimensions on it. It would really suck if I can't reuse my collar.

 

[Build]

Is the unit frozen up with high humidity? Does the compressor run constantly? The hot side should be hotter than you can hold, and the cold side should freeze your fingers to it. It sounds like either the compressor is going out or it's low on freon.

 

[mcubed45]

Is the unit frozen up with high humidity? Does the compressor run constantly? The hot side should be hotter than you can hold, and the cold side should freeze your fingers to it. It sounds like either the compressor is going out or it's low on freon.

In stock configuration it is running constantly, attempting to reach target temp but nowhere near it. When it was wired to the external temp controller, it was also running constantly while the temps were out of range. Prior to these problems, the compressors was triggering on and off appropriately as dictated by the external controller.


What do you mean by "frozen up with high humidity".

 

[Build]

Sounds like the compressor might be going bad. Usually with low freon it will cycle on and off. If you have high humidity (like here in South FL or Hawaii) the coils might be frozen up and not allowing air flow. This will have similar symptoms as yours. It will run constantly but never get cold except near the frozen area. I've seen this happen quite a bit.

 

[mcubed45]

Sounds like the compressor might be going bad. Usually with low freon it will cycle on and off. If you have high humidity (like here in South FL or Hawaii) the coils might be frozen up and not allowing air flow. This will have similar symptoms as yours. It will run constantly but never get cold except near the frozen area. I've seen this happen quite a bit.

The coils are inside the walls of the freezer. There's never been any ice in the interior. The thermostat was set to cycle between 35 and 40. It's warmed to about 70 over the past couple days.

 

[Build]

If there's never been ice inside this must have an automatic defrost? Does the hot side get so hot that you can't hold it? If not, then it's probably the compressor, or still possibly low freon. Without a gauge you won't be able to know though. A service person can tell you within minutes of hooking it up, but is a $100+ service charge worth it?

 

[mcubed45]

If there's never been ice inside this must have an automatic defrost? Does the hot side get so hot that you can't hold it? If not, then it's probably the compressor, or still possibly low freon. Without a gauge you won't be able to know though. A service person can tell you within minutes of hooking it up, but is a $100+ service charge worth it?

http://www.refrigerator-select.com/...stfreezer-frost-indicator-light-88-cu-ft.html

There's no automatic defrost. It's a simple chest freezer. My thermostat was just set such that ice never formed inside. I do have a high flow computer fan running continuously inside so there's decent air circulation.

The condenser line coming off the the compressor was too hot to touch. But it seemed like only that part of the coil and the panel it entered was radiating any heat. Normally all the sides of the freezer are very warm while it's running. Also there was only one strip along the inside of the freezer that was forming condensation.

In any case, the compressor now only kicks on for a split second before kicking back off. It does this every couple minutes. No heat or cold anywhere.

Probably not worth a service call, huh?

Kind've a bummer it only lasted 5 years.

 

[Build]

By the time the compressor is replaced and freon added, it would be cost effective to buy a new one. I see nice chest freezers all the time on Craigslist for good prices. My grandmother's chest freezers are from the 1950s and still going strong, and never serviced. Seems like some companies build for the warranty period only. Pretty sad. I'm not sure who builds Kenmore these days. Yes it's a bummer it only lasted 5 years.

 

[BREWBYRD]

2 suggestions. 1 use an amp probe to compare compressor amps to nameplate. 2 feel the compressor after 30 mins runtime. There are 2 lines on compressor Discharge (out) and Suction (return). The smaller is discharge and should be hot, the other (larger) should be cool/cold. If the compressor itself is too hot to touch, you likely have bad valves (does not pump at original capacity). you can confirm this with a low amp reading. (nameplate says 3.3, but only drawing 0.9). If compressor is closer to nameplate amps, discharge is warm/hot and suction is room temp or slightly cold........low charge. you can confirm this by bypassing your controller. the freezer should build a nice even frostline around the inside walls. low charge would result in partial frost line. If compressor is attempting to but not actually running you may be able to order a 3in1 Start Kit. 50/50 chance at that point. MHO, working in the field..... Buy a new one or find an hvac friend who likes to drink beer. "WE ARE HAVING A BBQ SATURDAY, YOU SHOULD COME BY.....OH , AND BRING YOUR TOOLS! good luck either way

 

[BREWBYRD]

search rco810 3 in 1 start kit, definately worth your effort. Generally run around $15 at local havc supply house

 

[mcubed45]

2 suggestions. 1 use an amp probe to compare compressor amps to nameplate. 2 feel the compressor after 30 mins runtime. There are 2 lines on compressor Discharge (out) and Suction (return). The smaller is discharge and should be hot, the other (larger) should be cool/cold. If the compressor itself is too hot to touch, you likely have bad valves (does not pump at original capacity). you can confirm this with a low amp reading. (nameplate says 3.3, but only drawing 0.9). If compressor is closer to nameplate amps, discharge is warm/hot and suction is room temp or slightly cold........low charge. you can confirm this by bypassing your controller. the freezer should build a nice even frostline around the inside walls. low charge would result in partial frost line. If compressor is attempting to but not actually running you may be able to order a 3in1 Start Kit. 50/50 chance at that point. MHO, working in the field..... Buy a new one or find an hvac friend who likes to drink beer. "WE ARE HAVING A BBQ SATURDAY, YOU SHOULD COME BY.....OH , AND BRING YOUR TOOLS! good luck either way

Initially the compressor was continuously running, with a hot discharge line and cool return line. Partial frost line in one part of the freezer. Pretty much the low charge scenario you described.

Now the compressor attempt to start for a couple seconds then kicks back off. It repeats this every couple minutes without ever starting up.

 

[BREWBYRD]

Sounds like a good candidate for a 3 in 1 start kit. It's a cheap last alternative that i use almost every day at work.

 

[RonPaul]

Hi mcubed45, I'm just wondering what the end result was for you and your Kenmore chest freezer. I have a very similar issue with my 2 yr old Kenmore chest freezer and I'm wondering if you might be able to help with any insight.