I am converting a keezer with the intention of having six taps coming through the wall. The keezer sits in a storage room behind my bar. However, when I built my collar I attached it to the lid because I didn't want to lift kegs any higher than I needed to. Now as I look at it I see a problem because I plan to run the lines through pvc with insulation and a fan. This won't work because I won't be able to open the lid with rigid pipe. Anyone else run across this? Also, my exposed run will be less than 2 feet. Should I care that much about 2 feet of exposed line? Thanks.
Keezer Help
- Thread starter infantej
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
The exposed lines will not stay cold so your first pours will foam until that warmer beer in the lines passes through. If this isn't a big deal then so be it, otherwise it sounds like you'll have to adjust the collar to be fixed and only open the lid so your PVC goes to the collar and keeps everything cold.
Why not use flexible lines filled with expanding foam or something less rigid to go between the wall and the keezer? That seems like it would be easier than re-engineering your keezer. 
Why not use flexible lines filled with expanding foam or something less rigid to go between the wall and the keezer? That seems like it would be easier than re-engineering your keezer.
That's my thought right now but they just looks so terrible. Also, I think they are 4 inch which would make it hard for me to fit two given my setup.
Would applying some sort of latch to the pvc to attach to the keezer work? My thinking is I could use insulation on the end of the pvc and butt it to the keezer and latch it tight. When I need to open the keezer I pop the latch and the extra line should give me clearance to open. Anyone tried something like that?
number40fan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2014
- Messages
- 462
- Reaction score
- 80
Use a toilet bowl flange. Bolt the flange to the keezer and you can use 4" pipe to run the lines through. Don't glue the pipe to the flange and you could just push it together when using and slip off when needed.
do your lines have to come out the back of the keezer? Could you offset the keezer placement so that it is fully left or right of where your taps will enter your wall?
If your collar is high enough, you could notch out a piece on the side, so that when the keezer is closed, the notch sits over and sandwiches the pipe. it could be sealed with gasket tape and some foam board attached to the PVC pipe.
The PVC would need to be mounted to the wall side though.
If your collar is high enough, you could notch out a piece on the side, so that when the keezer is closed, the notch sits over and sandwiches the pipe. it could be sealed with gasket tape and some foam board attached to the PVC pipe.
The PVC would need to be mounted to the wall side though.
Number40fan and Beerfest
Those are both great ideas. My pipe will come out the side of the keezer so either should work. My only concern with the flange idea is that I will have six kegs and a CO2 tank in the keezer so it might be pretty hard to pull it away from the pipe each time I open it.
Those are both great ideas. My pipe will come out the side of the keezer so either should work. My only concern with the flange idea is that I will have six kegs and a CO2 tank in the keezer so it might be pretty hard to pull it away from the pipe each time I open it.
