inkbird ITC 106VH overshooting temp. Boiled water when set at mash temp 154f

[Sean Provencher]

As the title says, I set my mash water to heat and came back and it was boiling. Shut off the inkbird and reset everything, same problem.

Last time I worked like a charm, today its doing this. Anyone had this issue?

S

 

[doug293cz]

Have you watched the PID to see if the output light starts blinking when close to the setpoint temp? If that light doesn't start blinking, then the PID is not operating correctly. If the light blinks, and the water keeps getting hotter (and then the light stays off when the water is way over temp), then the SSR may be latched in the "on" state. SSR latching is often due to the SSR overheating.

Brew on

 

[Sean Provencher]

Dude, that totally sounds like it.
I didn't check the out light when I came in and it was boiling because I panicked but I'm trying to bring 25gal of water up to mash temps when I get started between my HLT and MLT.
Whats an easy solution, can I just cycle it off when I'm getting close to my target temp and it'll be okay or does it need time to cool?
Thanks Doug!

 

[Sean Provencher]

PS: is that a SR22? I've got my PPL and I'm more than Jealous if that is yours...

 

[doug293cz]

PS: is that a SR22? I've got my PPL and I'm more than Jealous if that is yours...

It's an RV-12. Love it. Got about 100 hrs on it so far, and flew to Oshkosh and back from Seattle this last summer.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

Dude, that totally sounds like it.
I didn't check the out light when I came in and it was boiling because I panicked but I'm trying to bring 25gal of water up to mash temps when I get started between my HLT and MLT.
Whats an easy solution, can I just cycle it off when I'm getting close to my target temp and it'll be okay or does it need time to cool?
Thanks Doug!

If the SSR latches due to high temp, then you have to turn off the main power in order to allow the SSR to cool down. Just turning off the power to the PID, or lowering the setpoint, won't help if the SSR is latched.

The above is just a stop-gap work around. If you have latching problems, then you really need to fix the overheating issue. Running hot will shorten the life of the SSR. An SSR with a properly configured heatsink should not overheat, even if running continuously at full power.

Brew on

 

[tellyho]

I had to finally go to heatsink + fan I my panel for this reason.

 

[Sean Provencher]

It's an RV-12. Love it. Got about 100 hrs on it so far, and flew to Oshkosh and back from Seattle this last summer.

Brew on

I want to be you when I grow up. I’ve been looking at the RV10 for a few years but have 2 kids under 2yrs so it isn’t the time. Good for you man!!

 

[Sean Provencher]

If the SSR latches due to high temp, then you have to turn off the main power in order to allow the SSR to cool down. Just turning off the power to the PID, or lowering the setpoint, won't help if the SSR is latched.

The above is just a stop-gap work around. If you have latching problems, then you really need to fix the overheating issue. Running hot will shorten the life of the SSR. An SSR with a properly configured heatsink should not overheat, even if running continuously at full power.

Brew on

Yeah this makes sense. The controller box I have is designed to be water proof so there is no air circulation. I’ll add a fan I think

 

[doug293cz]

Yeah this makes sense. The controller box I have is designed to be water proof so there is no air circulation. I’ll add a fan I think

Can you post some pics of your controller - inside, outside, multiple angles?

Brew on

 

[Sean Provencher]

Totally. Give me a couple days, I’m on the road with work a bit this week. thanks man!