Induction Brewing with 120V

[SkiNuke]

I just moved out of an apartment with a nice gas range to an apartment that has a glass electric range. Given my previous experience with electric stoves (I had to split boil to even get things to boil), I was thinking of going induction since it is supposed to be more efficient than standard electric stoves. I’m eyeing the duxtop 9100mc as I only have access to 120v. However, I’m worried this will just be a side grade and not an upgrade. Does anyone have experience using the duxtop 1800w portable induction cooktops?

I do 3 gallon all-grain batches and boil a little over 4 gallons in a 5 gallon pot. I’d like to stick with full boil rather than splitting the batch over 2 elements since that is a hassle.

Another option I’ve been tossing around is getting a heat stick and just brewing on the electric stove with the added element, but the induction sounded more useful for other tasks in the kitchen.

Thanks.

 

[MaxStout]

I just moved out of an apartment with a nice gas range to an apartment that has a glass electric range. Given my previous experience with electric stoves (I had to split boil to even get things to boil), I was thinking of going induction since it is supposed to be more efficient than standard electric stoves. I’m eyeing the duxtop 9100mc as I only have access to 120v. However, I’m worried this will just be a side grade and not an upgrade. Does anyone have experience using the duxtop 1800w portable induction cooktops?

I do 3 gallon all-grain batches and boil a little over 4 gallons in a 5 gallon pot. I’d like to stick with full boil rather than splitting the batch over 2 elements since that is a hassle.

Another option I’ve been tossing around is getting a heat stick and just brewing on the electric stove with the added element, but the induction sounded more useful for other tasks in the kitchen.

Thanks.

If you get the induction cooktop and it isn't sufficient to boil the volume you want, you can always add a heatstick. You'll need to plug those into separate branch circuits.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Get yourself to a hardware store, and get some REFLECTIX to wrap around your kettle. Makes a huge difference in the time it takes to reach a boil (and the vigor of said boil). I do 3.5 gallon boils and reach 3.0 gallons after 1 hour on a crappy glass stove top, with a double layer of reflectix wrapped around the kettle, and the lid about half-way on.

Without the reflectix insulation? I can't even get to a boil with more than about 3.3 gallons.

So I'd say get the reflectix, and try it on your glass stove top, before deciding if you need the induction cooktop -- the reflectix will be a big help no matter what your heat source is!

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Does anyone have experience using the duxtop 1800w portable induction cooktops?

I have a 5+ year old 9100mc that I use to brew 2.5 gal BIAB batches; typically a 3.0 gal boil in a 4.0 gal kettle. The kettle is double wrapped with reflectix insulation. Heating to boil is not a problem. When boiling, I set the cooktop to "240" to maintain the boil (and there are a couple of power levels above 240 that I don't need to use).

 

[Ron O]

I have used a 120v induction plate to boil 2.5 gallons for extract recipes. It worked better than my electric stove. Be aware that not all cook ware will work on induction.

 

[Dancy]

I just moved out of an apartment with a nice gas range to an apartment that has a glass electric range. Given my previous experience with electric stoves (I had to split boil to even get things to boil), I was thinking of going induction since it is supposed to be more efficient than standard electric stoves. I’m eyeing the duxtop 9100mc as I only have access to 120v. However, I’m worried this will just be a side grade and not an upgrade. Does anyone have experience using the duxtop 1800w portable induction cooktops?

I do 3 gallon all-grain batches and boil a little over 4 gallons in a 5 gallon pot. I’d like to stick with full boil rather than splitting the batch over 2 elements since that is a hassle.

Another option I’ve been tossing around is getting a heat stick and just brewing on the electric stove with the added element, but the induction sounded more useful for other tasks in the kitchen.

Thanks.

You can brew 1800W induction easily for those batch

sizes. I used a portable 1800W induction unit with an 8 gallon kettle to boil 6 gallons. I wrapped the kettle in Reflectix.

 

[IslandLizard]

What kind of range is in your apartment? 4 elements on top and an oven? Those are typically wired and fused on a 240V, 30-50 Amp circuit.

One of those elements may deliver as much or more heat as an 1800W induction plate, if so that plate wouldn't be an upgrade.

Now using a 3500W induction plate (such as an Avantco IC3500 for ~$200) would be more valuable. Alas it does need a 240V circuit. And a kettle that's induction friendly.

 

[SkiNuke]

Thanks for the info everyone. My range is just one of those standard electric ones with 4 main burners and a warmer burner. I’m liking the idea of sticking with that and using reflectix and a heat stick to supplement as needed. My fear is that I’ll start a brew day and get stuck with unboiled wort. I can always go to induction when the wife wants to try it for cooking.

Any recommendations on a heat stick other than the one Max mentioned?

Also, is reflectix fine to use on the stove or should I be looking for a special type that can handle being near a burner?

 

[IslandLizard]

and a heat stick to supplement as needed

Many (most?) heat sticks tend to get very hot, so beware of potential scorching of the wort.
Aside from their power output, the larger (longer) or even folded element, the more the total energy is spread out over the surface. Watt density is measured in Watts/square cm. So a low(er) watt density would be preferred over higher, for the same output (in Watts).

Or if it's really big, a power controller will help you dial in the amount of energy applied.

is reflectix fine to use on the stove

Yes, but just keep it an inch or so above the hot plate/surface, or it may melt, or even ignite.
Chances are, your kettle will overhang the element somewhat, which effectively reduces the risk of it melting the plastic (Reflectix). Also, 2 layers of Reflectix are much better than one.
You can strap it or use bungee cords.

Instead of a using heat stick, if a single element can't bring the whole brew kettle to a boil or keep it boiling, you can spread your water or wort over 2 or more kettles/pots, one stove burner for each.

I really love using induction, and not just for brewing. I can recommend it, and that IC3500 is very useful, I've done 10 gallon batches on it. I did have to install a dedicated 240V/20A circuit for it, but an electric clothes dryer outlet should work fine too, using a different plug on the unit, or with a (240V/20A) extension/adapter cord.

As I said before, an 1800W induction unit is a bit skimpy, and although it should work fine for brewing 3-4 gallon batches, it may not be any better than one of your stove top burners.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

There is multi-year, cross-forum discussion on how to best apply reflectix.

From my web searching on Sunday (may be repeatable tomorrow), it appears that 1 layer with 2 cm air gap is as effective as three layers with direct contact. There is generally enough reflectix in a package to wrap commonly sized kettles two or three times.

"Engineer" (using scissors and glue) a single layer wrapper? Or "short and shoddy" (using a bungee cord) a three layer wrapper?

---

• Mash Tun Insulation Comparisons - fermware.com
• Reflectix Insulation Jacket for your Mash Tun - fermware.com
• web search related to 1 layer + air gap (link)

eta: also Mash Tun Insulation Comparisons, Part II - fermware.com

 

[IslandLizard]

it appears that 1 layer with 2 cm air gap is as effective as three layers with direct contact.

Interesting! But not surprising.
Reflectix is actually designed to be used with an airspace when used on ductwork or even as attic insulation.

So stacked, narrow strips of Reflectix, or some other low heat conducting material, glued to the back of a single (or double) layer of Reflectix would be better because the created air space transfers less heat from the kettle.

Yes, straps on the closure (Velcro or such) would be better than a bungee cord that compresses the insulation.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Any recommendations on a heat stick other than the one Max mentioned?

I'd say your first steps should be:
A boil test for your pot on your stove with your desired amount of water (almost 4 gal, I think you wrote in first message). Does it heat up fast enough to mashing temp? Does it reach a boil? On a glass-top stove, it won't!

Then test again with the reflectix. Does that make a big enough difference that you can live with it? If so, great, you saved a buncha money on a heat stick (which comes with it's own set of issues).

Also, is reflectix fine to use on the stove or should I be looking for a special type that can handle being near a burner?

My pot (a 5.5 gal Tramontina. 12" high, 11" diameter) overhangs my glass stove-top's burner by a good half-inch all around, and my reflectix insulation touches the stove-top. No signs of melting, just a few sticky spots where I dripped wort down the side. But when I was first experimenting with reflectix, I made a "floating lid" out of a circle of reflectix and did a boil -- made a huge difference in how much harder the boil was. But most of the silvered particles fell off and ended up in the pot! (So at least don't do that with anything you're going to consume).

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

One other glass stove-top issue you might not be aware of: If you're mashing, turning off the burner won't prevent your wort's temperature from increasing right away. Safest to move it off the burner completely.

 

[IslandLizard]

Safest to move it off the burner completely.

I find moving full kettles with hot liquids rather unsafe, even more so when on a glass top.
Better let the kettle be and wait a minute for the radiant coil to cool down a bit.
When mashing in you'll lose a few degrees due to cold malt and an open kettle, so start out a bit higher.

Also make sure the glass top is clean and has no "grit" (coarse sand or such) on it when putting your kettle on it. Such point pressure could crack the glass.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

I find moving full kettles with hot liquids rather unsafe, even more so when on a glass top.
Better let the kettle be and wait a minute for the radiant coil to cool down a bit.
When mashing in you'll lose a few degrees due to cold malt and an open kettle, so start out a bit higher.

Maybe it's just our crappy stove, but 3 gal water heated to 160F, and the burner turned off, will result in water heated to at least 170+F before it finally starts dropping back down again. I suppose the answer to that is to plan ahead for that extra heat transfer, but I don't have any problem moving a pot with 3.5 gal water in it.

Also make sure the glass top is clean and has no "grit" (coarse sand or such) on it when putting your kettle on it. Such point pressure could crack the glass.

First reaction: Yikes! That'd be pretty tough explaining how I broke the whole freakin' stove!

Second reaction: Might be able to use this info to sabotage the stove such that it breaks when the missus is cooking, then "we might as well get a nice induction cook-top"!

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Also make sure the glass top is clean and has no "grit" (coarse sand or such) on it when putting your kettle on it. Such point pressure could crack the glass.

I started home brewing in a rental property that had a glass top induction range.

One of the compelling reasons for using an portable induction cook top (e.g. duxtop 9100) was avoiding the possibility of breaking the surface and then having to quibble with the rental management company over who has to pay for the replacement.

 

[belgabrewing]

One other glass stove-top issue you might not be aware of: If you're mashing, turning off the burner won't prevent your wort's temperature from increasing right away. Safest to move it off the burner completely.

With an induction cook top, the element is on or off and heat control is amazing. Also, there is little to no heat retention in the ceramic top so moving the pot off the element to avoid additional/residual heat is totally unnecessary.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

[duxtop] 9100mc

for today's brew day,

• 3.12 gal of OG 55 wort heated from 135F to 205F in about 30 minutes /1/.
• A sustained boil will use either the "240" or "260" temperature setting

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/1/ cooktop at heat setting 10, kettle wrapped with two layers, lid was covered with a folded bath towel, but slightly cracked open.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Thanks, I've always wondered how much faster I might get 3 to 3.5 gallons from mash temp (150F) to boil if I had that 120v induction burner! I think it takes my stovetop about 45 minutes to bring 3.5 gal wort from 150F up to a boil. So it wouldn't be that big of an upgrade, which is good to know.

 

[beren]

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/forum/reflectix-r-value-claims-reasonable
Reflectix is designed to have a sealed air barrier behind it

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Based on personal experiences and measurements, I have found that double wrapping my kettles with reflectix helps maintain mash temperature.

On the "cool down" side, I've experimented with controlling cool down temperature by using (or removing) the layers of reflectix. With the insulation in place, the cool down is measurably slower.

Maybe the results would be better with sealed barrier. For now, double wrapped (no air barrier) is making a difference. And that's good enough engineering for me.