Hops clogging poppet

[TurnipGreen]

I have a pale ale that when I kegged I must have transferred more hops than I thought. I did cold crash after dry hopping but only for two days. I’m getting hops stuck in the poppet. It stuck right away, then I got almost two pours before stuck again.

I’m new to kegging so I could use some help with the best way to fix this.

I guess I could keep cleaning the poppet when it gets stuck. That just seems like it’s asking for a beer shower and eventually bugs getting in the beer.

I read on one of these posts when folks transfer to another keg they tilt the keg to leave any trub or hops settle in a corner. I don’t have have a spare keg. But I do have room in the fridge to leave the keg tilted.

I’ve also read folks will put a stainless steel mesh at the base of the dip tub, but the dip tube goes to the center of the keg and i’d rather not cut the tube. Plus the keg is full of beer, so that doesn’t seem like I can do that.

Instead of constantly pulling apart the post, could I hook the gas line up to the beer line and blow out the dip tube, then leave the keg tilted for a day and hook the beer line back up?

Thanks

 

[eanema]

You can definitely give that a try. When I carb beer I quite often carb by putting the gas line on the liquid post, it gets more contact with the beer. So you could try blowing it out. But sometimes the gas line gets a little stuck on the liquid post... Nothing a little bit of brute force won't fix.

I would let it all settle for a day or two sitting in the normal position, depressurize the keg then remove the poppet valve from the liquid line and reinstall. Pour a few pints to clear most of the hops out, then reinstall the poppet valve. But of course, don't forget to depresssurize before disconnecting the liquid line otherwise you'll have a beer shower ;-) I don't always do things the east way though, so maybe someone else will have better advise for you

 

[Robert65]

But sometimes the gas line gets a little stuck on the liquid post... Nothing a little bit of brute force won't fix.

Holy crap, you're not trying to put a gas disconnect (gray) on the liquid post, are you??!! Oh, my head...

 

[eanema]

Haha yup. I do it some times. It goes on just fine... It's getting it off that's the problem ;-)

 

[Robert65]

Haha yup. I do it some times. It goes on just fine... It's getting it off that's the problem ;-)

Those are specifically made so you can't put the wrong disconnect on the wrong post. If you do force it, you'll damage it and it may not reliably seat or seal on the proper post again. (If it's a stainless disconnect, it might damage the post too.) In the future, use the correct disconnect and switch the line.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, on a keg that uses a bent dip tube by design, you can bend the dip tube enough to raise the end a couple of inches above the keg bottom, which is often enough to clear the debris line. Bend it back when the keg kicks.

Doesn't work as well/easily on a straight dip tube keg...

Cheers!

 

[Tbagger]

Depending on the number of lines on your manifold/regulator, you can just have one gas line connected to a out (black) disconnect for carbing and/or blowing out clogged posts. I have 3 for carbing (black) and then 6 for serving (grey) in my keezer and it works well.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Holy crap, you're not trying to put a gas disconnect (gray) on the liquid post, are you??!! Oh, my head...

No reason to freak out. It's actually quite common. A lot of guys use this technique as part of the 'set-and-forget' to send CO2 up through the beer rather than just the headspace. It won't ruin anything, the seals will be just fine.

I have a pale ale that when I kegged I must have transferred more hops than I thought. I did cold crash after dry hopping but only for two days. I’m getting hops stuck in the poppet. It stuck right away, then I got almost two pours before stuck again.

Thanks

You could try unhooking everything, relieving the pressure, and removing the poppet from the liquid post. reassemble and give it a go. This will allow hop debris to pass through without issue. Word of extreme warning - do not, under any circumstances, remove the liquid line while the keg is pressurized and there's the least bit of beer left in the keg. You will regret it. When the keg is empty, pull the relief valve and unhook as usual.

 

[Abhishek Dewan]

I believe simple solution could be by connecting float ball and tube on liquid poppet. It’ll always deliver beer from top.

 

[Curtis2010]

Another option is to create a short dip tube by cutting about 1" off the end. I have one like this specifically for racking between kegs so I can leave the trub behind in the source keg.

 

[govner1]

The easiest solution for me has been to shorten the liquid dip tube about 1/2-1” and add a SS mesh screen to the end. It keeps out hops, trub, etc.
Also adding Clear Beer Draught systems is very effective and you can also add screens to the pickup.

 

[Curtis2010]

I believe simple solution could be by connecting float ball and tube on liquid poppet. It’ll always deliver beer from top.

Clever idea. You mean connected to the end of the dip tube right?

Just need a stress relief or thick enough tubing so it doesnt kink as it bends upward from end of dip tube. Would not need to go all the way to top, just a few inches even to get above the trub. In fact, not going to top is better as some debri can collect there too. Shorter makes it less likely to foul as liquid level gets low too. A bit of tubing and a wine cork should work.

 

[TurnipGreen]

I actually have a spare gas line and spot on the manifold with the intent of using it to pressurize and then naturally carb kegs for a pipeline. I’m assuming if anything risks damage it would be the plastic gas connection as opposed to the metal connection on the keg.

I think try blowing out the beer line and leaving it, tilted. I really don’t want to cut the dip tube because I normally really do do a better job of cold crashing and transferring clearer beer. In the meantime I’ll order a float ball, because I’m certain this will not be the last time I shortcut something and transfer too much junk.

How difficult is that going to be in a keg full of beer?

 

[Robert65]

Clever idea. You mean connected to the end of the dip tube right?

Just need a stress relief or thick enough tubing so it doesnt kink as it bends upward from end of dip tube. Would not need to go all the way to top, just a few inches even to get above the trub. In fact, not going to top is better as some debri can collect there too. Shorter makes it less likely to foul as liquid level gets low too. A bit of tubing and a wine cork should work.

No, floating dip tubes are connected to a short (gas tube style) tube at the top, and use a stainless ball float (sanitary.) This way they don't kink or kick up sediment, but settle with the liquid level as the keg is drained. There are several commercial ones available, but the one flawless design is the Clear Beer Draught System, which also has a hop screen option for the pickup.

 

[Curtis2010]

No, floating dip tubes are connected to a short (gas tube style) tube at the top, and use a stainless ball float (sanitary.) This way they don't kink or kick up sediment, but settle with the liquid level as the keg is drained. There are several commercial ones available, but the one flawless design is the Clear Beer Draught System, which also has a hop screen option for the pickup.

Ah, will take a look at that, but fab'ing stuff up is way more fun than buying![emoji6]

 

[balrog]

There are several commercial ones available, but the one flawless design is the Clear Beer Draught System, which also has a hop screen option for the pickup.

This is the $20 Williams Brewing Top Draw as well. Works fine.

THere are also several threads on here with build your own, sourcing floats on Ebay.

Search "floating dip tube" for instance

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/diy-poor-mans-floating-diptube-for-clear-beer.647284/

Also search "ferment and serve in same keg" for another instance

 

[Robert65]

This is the $20 Williams Brewing Top Draw as well. Works fine.

THere are also several threads on here with build your own, sourcing floats on Ebay.

Search "floating dip tube" for instance

The big advantage of the CBDS design is that it ensures that the pickup opening is always below the liquid surface, so there is no chance of drawing gas or foam instead of beer, which can occasionally happen with other designs. If you fab your own, just address this. In some of those threads I've seen simple hacks to mod the William's type by weighting the tube with a stainless nut and/or cutting a secondary opening an inch or so down the silicone tubing.

 

[TurnipGreen]

Ok. I blew out the line. A little beer got in the gas line. So I took that off and i’ll sanitize it next time I clean stuff.

The keg is sitting tilted in the back of the fridge with hopefully a clean dip tube. I’ll try pouring a glass tomorrow to see it the tube is cleared and the hops settled to the corner of the keg.

Thanks. I’m still shopping for floating dip tubes. And i’m running to the hardware store today so i’ll shop around for a DIY floating tube.

I’m assuming it will be a mess to replace the dip tube in a full keg.

This is what I get for rushing a beer for Christmas.

 

[bracconiere]

You could try unhooking everything, relieving the pressure, and removing the poppet from the liquid post.

doesn't the QD have a poppet to that needs to be depressed? something else the OP should check...clean the liquid QD out...

This is what I get for rushing a beer for Christmas.

isn't there a song 7 days of cristmas? oh here it is 12 days, lol

 

[Brooothru]

No, floating dip tubes are connected to a short (gas tube style) tube at the top, and use a stainless ball float (sanitary.) This way they don't kink or kick up sediment, but settle with the liquid level as the keg is drained. There are several commercial ones available, but the one flawless design is the Clear Beer Draught System, which also has a hop screen option for the pickup.

I"m going to have to try the Clear Beer. I've tried several others, as well as DIY types, but haven't found one that gives me a satisfactory pour. I tend to get too much gas uptake in the initial part of the draw resulting in excess foam. The lines and pressure have been properly balanced and have worked well for over ten years (lines periodically replaced), so that's not the cause of the foam. Still get good pours from the 'standard' kegs as though.

As regards hop clogs, I had a doozy last week. Eight oz dry hops in a Winter Warmer DIPA. Cold crash for two days.
Pressure transfer to a serving keg took FOREVER, but it continued to flow so rather than stop I let it run. Near the end it stopped completely so I hooked up a pony tap and increased gas pressure in an attempt to blow it clear. No luck.

Finally with everything disconnected and disconnected, I isolated the clog as being inside the black quick disconnect. It wouldn't clear even with 30 psi applied. I've got a few extra disconnects, so no big deal except for ~ 1 gallon left behind in the brite keg, which is re-crashing in the garage with hopes that it settles. At least it wasn't one of my stainless steel disconnects, especially the flow control ones ($$$$).

Brooo Brother

 

[FloppyKnockers]

doesn't the QD have a poppet to that needs to be depressed?

Yes, but if it isn't there, it doesn't need to be depressed. This is the smallest opening the beer encounters from it's travels from the keg to the glass. [read] the part most likely to get clogged with hops.

 

[bracconiere]

Yes, but if it isn't there, it doesn't need to be depressed. This is the smallest opening the beer encounters from it's travels from the keg to the glass. [read] the part most likely to get clogged with hops.

just sayin' , you'd have to remove both poppets for your poppit free system, both the one in the post and the one in the QD....

 

[TurnipGreen]

No dice. I didn’t get a quarter of a pour. Since it’s so little I am hoping it’s just a single chunk or two of hops.

I still have at least a week or two until my oldest keg is kicked. So I don’t have anything to transfer into right now.

Tomorrow I’m gonna pull the whole dip tube out and clean the whole assembly. Then I’ll slip some stainless mess around the tube and put it all back together.

If anyone has any tips on doing this with the least amount of beer spewing everywhere i’d appreciate it.

Or a better idea.

 

[bracconiere]

damn, you jinxed me....i just had a clogged poppit, i had to crank up the co2 pressure to 20+psi and blow it out.....lol

 

[TurnipGreen]

Cleaned everything out. There was hops on both check valve/poppets and hops in the dip tube. Put some stainless mesh around the dip tube and it’s pouring great. It pretty cloudy and stirred up, but I’ve been messing with the beer enough, i’m gonna keep pouring it and be happy it’s pouring! It’ll clear in a day or two.

Thanks for the help and ideas.

 

[govner1]

No, floating dip tubes are connected to a short (gas tube style) tube at the top, and use a stainless ball float (sanitary.) This way they don't kink or kick up sediment, but settle with the liquid level as the keg is drained. There are several commercial ones available, but the one flawless design is the Clear Beer Draught System, which also has a hop screen option for the pickup.

*^^^^^This!!!

 

[govner1]

No dice. I didn’t get a quarter of a pour. Since it’s so little I am hoping it’s just a single chunk or two of hops.

I still have at least a week or two until my oldest keg is kicked. So I don’t have anything to transfer into right now.

Tomorrow I’m gonna pull the whole dip tube out and clean the whole assembly. Then I’ll slip some stainless mess around the tube and put it all back together.

If anyone has any tips on doing this with the least amount of beer spewing everywhere i’d appreciate it.

Or a better idea.

The real challenge I see in doing this with a full keg is keeping the mesh filter on the dip tube as you install it.
It’s much easier to do it with an empty keg since you can easily hold the screen in place as you insert the dip tube.

 

[Jag75]

Everytime I think about dry hopping commando or dry hopping in a keg i look at all the clogged poppets posts. I'll continue to use bags. Just seems easier then dealing with clogs .

 

[TurnipGreen]

Everytime I think about dry hopping commando or dry hopping in a keg i look at all the clogged poppets posts. I'll continue to use bags. Just seems easier then dealing with clogs .

Yeah, I’m learning the ins and outs of kegging. I’ve always dry hopped camando when bottling and I usually cold crash longer.

I’m going to need to study up on dry hopping in the keg. I bet that can get a fresher hop too.

 

[speavler]

In an emergency, a 1/2” silicon tubing will fit snugly over the liquid out threads on the keg (after depressurizing and removing the liquid post to clean out hop debris). Then hit with a little gas to flush out the junk on the bottom of the keg. Just be ready to pull the prv and reassemble the liquid post quickly.