Help First Time Set Up - Everything Froze

[Mdean4421]

Just bought first kegerator & hookedup Dual 1/4 barrel slims. Co2 tank in the kegerstor set up. Got it going fine per instructions. Had about 10 beers poured off it today. Thought it was all good.

Then no beer. Opened kegerator to investigate and co2 is frosted over, regulator frosted over and reading zero pressure.

Looked didn’t see any leaks. No idea what happened . Any thoughts?

 

[day_trippr]

Greetings, @Mdean4421! And welcome to the forums at Homebrew Talk

The unavoidable diagnosis is: you had a leak. A pretty big one if it frosted the regulator, and most likely right at the connection between the regulator coupler and the cylinder valve.
So...what make/model regulator are you using?
And when you attached your regulator to the cylinder valve did you insert a gasket between coupler and valve?

Don't despair, this is one of the most common occurrences for first-time keggers. Get the cylinder refilled and we can help you work through the issues...

Cheers!

 

[Mdean4421]

Thanks @day_trippr ! I appreciate the help. I'm hoping my beer won't go bad until I get more air on Monday. I disconnected the couplers from kegs. Took CO2 tank out and turned air from flow from bottom of regulator to kegs off. Anything else I should do?Air tank was empty, so definitely a leak.

I'm not sure the exact model of regulator, but it's a Kegco. I got one of those kits. On the instructions it just said use this plastic washer inside and hand tight with a quarter wrench turn at end. So I did that. Here is a photo of what the plastic washer looks like. I'm not sure what I did wrong here, but clearly something.

 

[day_trippr]

As long as you keep the kegs sealed up the beer will not suffer while you're getting your gas cylinder refilled.

I can see an appropriate nylon gasket inside the coupler so that's fine, but I recommend going hard with the wrench, the coupler and cylinder valve can take a lot of force without issue. Again, to frost the regulator suggests a significant leak, so once you have the reg hooked up and the cylinder open, you might spray all the connections with some soapy water bubble mix and check for leaks.

Also, whenever you open the cylinder valve be sure to open it fully all the way to the stop as that valve type seals better at the stops then relying on the valve stem packing in between. I doubt that was the issue here but it's a good practice going forward...

Cheers!

 

[Broken Crow]

If you haven't yet picked up a CO2 refill; Grab some extra gaskets! In an ideal world you should change out and discard the old gasket with each cylinder change...in practice, I've flipped them over and reused a couple times, but only before I bought spares. My first regulator used those gaskets and as I recall, after hand-tightening, I still turned it another 3/4-turn with the wrench, but heard a slight hiss when I opened the valve that only stopped after another 90° turn.
+1 to @day_trippr 's spray-test... If you feel as paranoid as I did: I filled my laundry-room washtub and immersed the whole thing to watch for bubbles (angling it yes, but nowhere near upside-down which will allow liquid CO2 into the regulator and mess up your readout.)

 

[Mdean4421]

Thanks @day_trippr & @Broken Crow ! I'll give it a whirl on Monday & keep yall posted.

 

[Mdean4421]

@day_trippr & @Broken Crow - I got a new tank. I tightened it down tight this time. Sprayed soapy water on the connection and all the others and didn't see any bubbles. I first turned air on and it sprayed out every where really fast. Then I realized I had the dial on the front of the regulator screwed all the way in. Quickly turned tank off. Backed the dial counter clockwise all the way out. Turned the valves on the bottom of regulator off. Pulled the pin on the sides of the couplers on the kegs and regulator to relieve pressure (Not sure if suppose to do kegs too, but instructions say do regulator). Then opened both faucets then, turned back on the tank, and opened back valves on bottom of regulator. Turned the dial on the regulator to about 8-10PSI until. the beer started flowing good on both faucets.

I re-sprayed everything with soapy water & no bubbles. Then I hear a hissing sound though. Find out its coming from the coupler where the pin you can pull out a bit to relieve pressure. Thought ok, maybe it's just blowing off excess pressure. Pulled it out it stopped for a second and then back to hissing. Tried it 1-2 more times, but same thing. Now I just cut that valve off at the bottom of regulator as I didn't want it wasting more Co2.

I'm not 100% it's not leaking elsewhere as now I'm nervous about it happening again, and not sure how to fix this leaking. Side not my beer is much flatter on the first pour. Hoping it comes back a little after under CO2. Would hate to waste all this beer. Thanks yall for any help and guidance. I know I am a pure rookie here just trying to learn.

 

[day_trippr]

Could you post a picture of the regulator? I'm unsure of the configuration...

Cheers!

 

[Mdean4421]

You can see I got one cut off now.

 

[Mdean4421]

That's where the air is hissing from.

 

[redrocker652002]

I am wondering out loud if that little relief valve will screw in more as well? I have never looked at my regulator and I believe it is a different brand, but wondering if that has some sort of way to either screw it in more, or wrap some teflon or gas approved tape to it. Not a pro by any means so wait for the others to reply.

 

[day_trippr]

I can't tell what the low pressure gauge is reading but it looks like it's closer to 10 psi than anything crazy high. That PRV is on the low side and if gas is leaking out of the PRV vent holes it must be defective...

Cheers!

 

[Broken Crow]

I'm assuming the coupler came with the kegerator? Are you able to return the coupler easily if you need to? That PRV should be pretty firm to pull on, does it pull easily? You could try turning the gas back on, pulling it and then turning it side to side like a key in a lock and letting go to see if you can get the internal oring to seat properly... a lot of the cheaper couplers have 'less precise' fitting parts and need a bit of encouragement to center properly... That said, you may be able to get it to seal, but I'd personally replace it at the earliest opportunity if that's the case.

 

[Bobby_M]

Sounds like the prv on that coupler is just plain defective. You might want to take it apart and put it back together just to see if there's any debris in the seal/seat area. Could be anything, shard of metal, piece of hair, etc.

 

[JAReeves]

Looks like you discovered the issue, but I was also going to suggest that all threads be wrapped with plumbers tape and keg lube be used on washers on all of these connections.

 

[day_trippr]

Tape or goop for the 1/4" NPT stuff, but never use tape or sealant on cga320 coupler threads...

Cheers!

 

[JAReeves]

Tape or goop for the 1/4" NPT stuff, but never use tape or sealant on cga320 coupler threads...

Cheers!

why?

 

[day_trippr]

It's pointless to tape a cga320 valve when the coupler nut has a great big hole in the middle of it for the stem.
Same thing applies to any flare fitting like swivel nuts, etc...

Cheers!

 

[IslandLizard]

never use tape or sealant on cga320 coupler threads...

It's pointless to tape a cga320 valve when the coupler nut has a great big hole in the middle of it for the stem.

Although in that scenario the teflon tape will not help making a seal itself, it does provide a slicker surface for the nut to engage on. That can help in some (more unusual) cases to create a tighter, more positive seal between the tank nozzle and regulator stem.

I've had tanks where it was impossible to tighten the regulator nut sufficiently onto the tank nozzle without using a few turns of teflon tape on the nozzle threads.

 

[day_trippr]

Well...There is a compliant interposed washer or rubber o-ring involved. How much force do you think you need to achieve a seal? It's a lot less than implied - certainly way below galling...

Cheers!