Kegerator / regulator issue? - beer not flowing properly and I'm out of ideas

[Packie]

I have a dual tap system with a Taprite dual CO2 regulator that is only three years old. One line goes to a commerical keg, the other to a corny. I tapped a fresh commercial keg and it poured like mad with a big head, but after 6 or 7 pours, it has slowed to a tiny trickle and down to nothing - now it will only give me 1-2 pours in a day before it trickles again. Same thing was happening with my corny keg line previously. My CO2 tank gauge reads that it's nearly full, the valves are open, and I have the pressure up to 20. Beer lines and gas lines were recently replaced, so that's not the cause, and I'm not detecting any leaks. Only thing I can figure is something is wrong wtih the regulator? Or could it be the couplers (but with problems with both lines, I sort of ruled that out). ... Am I missing something here?

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

At first thought I was wondering if you have pressure at the kegs. Not sure why you wouldn't considering you have pressure at the regulator but it seems it might not be getting to the keg.

I'd check each keg for pressure then check the CO2 connections to each keg.

 

[sibelman]

Foam in the lines?

 

[Packie]

Foam in the lines?

Looks ok upon visual inspection. Literally had just changed the lines before tapping that commercial keg - first few pours were fast and foamy, but can that really be an issue that quickly? As a last resort, I'll push cleaner through it, but I'n not hopeful that's the issue.

 

[sibelman]

Do you have a picnic tap you can swap in? If it still fails the problem is at the keg(s) or on the gas side.

 

[Packie]

Do you have a picnic tap you can swap in? If it still fails the problem is at the keg(s) or on the gas side.

I don't.

 

[Broken Crow]

2 things you can do to help us help you;
1. Post a picture(s) of your setup so we can see the lines, regulator, disconnects and so on.
2. Take your sankey connector off and maybe connect an alternate line to the liquid out, lock the handle down and see if gas is flowing and (pushing in the check-valve ball) see if liquid flows freely through the liquid side.

 

[Packie]

At first thought I was wondering if you have pressure at the kegs. Not sure why you wouldn't considering you have pressure at the regulator but it seems it might not be getting to the keg.

I'd check each keg for pressure then check the CO2 connections to each keg.

How do I check pressure in the keg? On the CO2 regulator, the gauge says the pressure set at 20 psi - is that what you mean, or is there another way to test? The connections look fine to me, not hearing any leaks, and the gauge that measures what's left in the CO2 tank looks stable (and full). I sort of feel like there was plenty of carbination and pressure in the fresh keg when I bought it, which is why it flowed so well in the first 5-6 pours before the issues started. And it seems like some CO2 is getting in there from my tank since if I wait a day, it will pour again for a bit, but it's not that strong then it goes to a trickle (and then to nothing) after just 1-2 pours. So that's what's leading me to believe it's the regulator - but I wanted to be sure before I spend another $150 on a new one. Are there other things I should check on the regulator aside from the connections (which seem tight)?... Whole thing is very weird and frustrating.

 

[sibelman]

picture(s) of your setup

This.

To check if there's pressure in the corny, pull the PRV - a burst of gas should occur.

 

[Broken Crow]

How do I check pressure in the keg? On the CO2 regulator, the gauge says the pressure set at 20 psi

Taprites are pretty reliable regulators, so if you crank off the CO2 tank valve, you can briefly pull the release valve on the regulator and then what you see on the gauge will be the pressure that you have in the gas line to the keg. (you'll want to temporarily disconnect your corny during this test).
Just to be clear: the problem is only with the sankey and the corny is just fine?
Please post pics.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

How do I check pressure in the keg? On the CO2 regulator, the gauge says the pressure set at 20 psi - is that what you mean, or is there another way to test? The connections look fine to me, not hearing any leaks, and the gauge that measures what's left in the CO2 tank looks stable (and full). I sort of feel like there was plenty of carbination and pressure in the fresh keg when I bought it, which is why it flowed so well in the first 5-6 pours before the issues started. And it seems like some CO2 is getting in there from my tank since if I wait a day, it will pour again for a bit, but it's not that strong then it goes to a trickle (and then to nothing) after just 1-2 pours. So that's what's leading me to believe it's the regulator - but I wanted to be sure before I spend another $150 on a new one. Are there other things I should check on the regulator aside from the connections (which seem tight)?... Whole thing is very weird and frustrating.

It's very frustrating. My thought is the little pressure you are seeing at the keg is just CO2 dissolved in the beer, that is why you only get a trickle of beer. The pressure at the regulator doesn't measure what's in the keg, only what pressure you dial in to feed to the keg. My thought is there's an obstruction somewhere, it's just hard to pinpoint.

Have you tried spraying a mixture of soap and water on all of your connections? What might seem tight could be a small leak.

 

[Packie]

A quick update to the stupid situation: I just went up to take pictures for you all of my setup, and inexplicably I found the CO2 tank gauge now reading empty. Maybe I jostled something as I've been looking for an answer to the slow pour problem, or maybe it's a false reading, but the tank was full just yesterday and had been for the last several weeks as I've been trying to figure the original issue out. .... So, I just don't know anymore. I'm ready to take a sledgehammer to this friggin' thing. .... I'm giving up for the day and will connect my spare tank tomorrow, check for leaks (again), and take pictures to post here. ... I'll take pics of my whole connection process, maybe there's something I'm doing wrong. At this point I'd pay someone come and show me, but it seems 'home kegerator repair man' is not an actual career path, which is too bad because they'd make a fortune off me. .... Arggh.

 

[Packie]

It's very frustrating. My thought is the little pressure you are seeing at the keg is just CO2 dissolved in the beer, that is why you only get a trickle of beer. The pressure at the regulator doesn't measure what's in the keg, only what pressure you dial in to feed to the keg. My thought is there's an obstruction somewhere, it's just hard to pinpoint.

Have you tried spraying a mixture of soap and water on all of your connections? What might seem tight could be a small leak.

Yeah, I'm thinking the same ... I did do a soap and water check and found nothing. (But now the tank is empty all of a sudden - see my last update - so I dunno)

 

[Packie]

Taprites are pretty reliable regulators, so if you crank off the CO2 tank valve, you can briefly pull the release valve on the regulator and then what you see on the gauge will be the pressure that you have in the gas line to the keg. (you'll want to temporarily disconnect your corny during this test).
Just to be clear: the problem is only with the sankey and the corny is just fine?
Please post pics.

I don't currently have anything in the corny, so it's not connected at the moment, but when I did have a homebrew in it a few months ago I was having a similar trickle problem that I'm having now with the sankey one, so that made me think something is wrong with the regulator. The sankey that is live right now is having the current issue. ... Planning to brew an oatmeal stout this week to fill the corny.

 

[Packie]

Taprites are pretty reliable regulators, so if you crank off the CO2 tank valve, you can briefly pull the release valve on the regulator and then what you see on the gauge will be the pressure that you have in the gas line to the keg. (you'll want to temporarily disconnect your corny during this test).
Just to be clear: the problem is only with the sankey and the corny is just fine?
Please post pics.

The current problem is with the sankey one. I don't have anything in the corny at the moment, but I did have a similar problem when the corny was full a few months ago.

 

[Neldog0]

I have a dual tap system with a Taprite dual CO2 regulator that is only three years old. One line goes to a commerical keg, the other to a corny. I tapped a fresh commercial keg and it poured like mad with a big head, but after 6 or 7 pours, it has slowed to a tiny trickle and down to nothing - now it will only give me 1-2 pours in a day before it trickles again. Same thing was happening with my corny keg line previously. My CO2 tank gauge reads that it's nearly full, the valves are open, and I have the pressure up to 20. Beer lines and gas lines were recently replaced, so that's not the cause, and I'm not detecting any leaks. Only thing I can figure is something is wrong wtih the regulator? Or could it be the couplers (but with problems with both lines, I sort of ruled that out). ... Am I missing something here?

I was in the fluid power industry for 30 years. I sold many pressure regulators. The low cost regulators often exhibit symptoms like yours when their diaphragms start to fail. They cannot regulate pressures correctly.

 

[Packie]

Welp, I found the source of the CO2 leak, and it wasn't at any of the connections. I hooked up a full tank, and it immediately started gushing CO2 out of this hole (circled in red) in the back of the regulator. Anyone had that happen before? I think I lost a quarter of the tank just in the few seconds I had it hooked up. I'm guessing there's no repair for this and I need to buy a new regulator? (And, if that's the case, hopefully that solves the leak and the flow issues). Just so bizarre how that would have happened out of the blue. What even is that hole normally for?

Just for good measure, also including a picture of my set up, but not sure you'll be able to tell anything from it regarding the original flow problem. Just so you know, the knob on the left controls the commercial keg (the one with the value open), while the one on the right goes to my corny (which is not attached at the moment so the value is closed).

And a side question - What is the best regulator on the market? This is a Taprite, so I thought I was good, but is there a better brand?

 

[mac_1103]

What even is that hole normally for?

Isn't that a PRV? Seems like it should be replaceable, but what do I know?

 

[day_trippr]

There is a "burst disc" inside that housing, and the one that's in there either blew out or is somehow leaking.
It can be replaced as an assembly - if you can find someone carrying that part...

Cheers!

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I'd try contacting Taprite and see if they can offer some help. It might be an easy fix but then again it could be costly considering shipping costs. Do some checking around and see what the folks here offer before giving up on it. If nothing else you'll have some salvageable parts on it.

Taprite is a good brand, not sure what's better but again you'll get loads of advice from folks here. I have two regulators of different brands, not Taprite, I can check then tomorrow.

Sad, but at least you know now. No more chasing down the issue.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Rite brew has a tap rite for 83 bucks, two year warranty.

 

[day_trippr]

The OPs reg is a dual body.
I have a nearly identical dual body Taprite reg but with MFL output ports. T5752HP-02.
I paid $145 for it delivered.

Kegoutlet has a dual body similar model that without the added swivel nuts is listed for $135 + shipping.
https://www.kegoutlet.com/co2-beer-regulator-three-gauge-taprite.html?pid=2077
Still, I'd see if the burst disc assembly can be had...

Cheers!

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Yup, saw that the OP had a dual body regulator, just offering a suggestion.

A dual body is fine but generally they are double the cost and in this situation it doesn't appear that having separate regulators is much help now.

Maybe not better brands, but there's a whole bunch of options on Amazon, or Bobby ( brewhardware) has something too or he can offer an idea about fixing what you have.

 

[sibelman]

Still, I'd see if the burst disc assembly can be had...

Tap-Rite lists 50 replacement parts on their web site, but nothing that seems relevant to @day_trippr's diagnosis.

I wonder how this kind of failure could occur. Seems a shame to toss the whole thing, especially after only 3 years.

 

[sibelman]

.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

It's sad that quality is a word that that does mean much anymore.

 

[DuncB]

Single regulator and split tube with Y or T in the line and fit two inline regulators.
Seems that blowout disk failed when not observed, hence full to empty overnight.
Once you have a regulator fit coupler for Sankey. Depress plunger as if fitting, immerse in bucket of water and briefly turn gas on. This will confirm any issue away from regulator. Check connections for leak at same time.

 

[day_trippr]

Tap-Rite lists 50 replacement parts on their web site, but nothing that seems relevant to @day_trippr's diagnosis.
I wonder how this kind of failure could occur. Seems a shame to toss the whole thing, especially after only 3 years.

Turns out I had been down this road before and indeed found the necessary parts are not sold separately, but could only speculate why. Might want to ask Taprite about that.

Without examining the parts there's no way to tell what happened, but it seems the assembly is more a spring loaded PRV than a classic single-use burst disc like found on old pin lock keg lids...

 

[Packie]

Thanks for the help everyone. Trying to fix the regulator feels a bit intimidating. I think I'm just gonna cut my losses as this point and get a new one - and hope it also solves my original beer flow problem. I'll let you know.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I mentioned before, but I'll say it again. Save your old regulator as you might find the right person to help you rebuild it or you could use it for parts. Having a second regulator is handy whether it's a dual body or a single with a way to split the gas lines.

I looked at one of my single ( I have two) and it came from Rapids Wholesale, it's a Draught Technology brand I bought at least twenty years ago. My other one has no name on it and it's older.

Some folks here have no trouble tearing something apart to fix it. There's no shame if you don't feel comfortable doing that. Along the way you might find a fix for your old one.

 

[day_trippr]

In fact one could save some money by just replacing the failed regulator.
Might be able to do that cheapest using this. I'm pretty sure Taprite primary bodies are all threaded the same and that dual-body already has the interbody nipple. Should be easy to swap...

Cheers!