Fly Sparge Flow Rate Adjustment

[estricklin]

I've been fly sparging again lately, using a gravity system in my kitchen. I've had this mash tun for years and it's a typical false bottom/round cooler with a half inch ball valve.

The problem I've always had and should have done something about sooner, is I can never get the flow rate adjusted very well. It usually slows to a drip and stops after a few minutes at one setting, or flows way too fast at another. In the past I usually just babysit it, and as long as I keep a good slow flow can hit 80% no problem. Yesterday I brewed and Irish Red and hit 86%. I used a spigot from a bottling bucket yesterday in place of the ball valve and it didn't really help. I have the fittings to add a needle valve, I'm wondering if that will make a difference.

It almost seems like there should be a vent somewhere, maybe add a Tee and a piece of pipe coming straight up from where the valve is? I'm just kind of wondering what others do, because this "all or nothing" draining is not working since the only chance I have to brew, is when my wife is at work on the weekends and I have a 4 month old to watch while I brew! It's almost impossible to stand over the mash tun the entire time.

Thanks in advance!

 

[helterscelter]

I've had the same experience. Adjusting flow rate with a ball valve is a pita. I recently decided to spend too much to fix the problem and ordered a pair of these


http://www.homebrewing.org/G2-Linear-Flow-Valve-Blichmann_p_5340.html

No clue yet if they will be worth it but the design lends its self to me justifying in my head why they would be better than a ball valve

 

[helterscelter]

On another note. I think a needle valve will become plugged up to easily to be useful.

 

[estricklin]

I was worried about the needle valve clogging but I have a pretty good false bottom, so I'll just have to try and see.

That is an expensive valve, but if it works it might be worth it. It certainly looks like it would. Have you tried it yet?

 

[helterscelter]

Still waiting on it to arrive. Had hoped it would show up in time to brew tomorrow but ups says it'll be here Monday.. so i guess I'll have to try it on the next brew

 

[MagicMatt]

I use the same setup you describe (10gal round cooler, SS false bottom, 1/2" ball valve), and have absolutely no problems with my lautering. I open the valve maybe 25% to start vorlaufing (a flow of about 1 pint every 8-10 seconds), vorlauf for about 10 minutes until there is no more particulate coming out, then let it run into my kettle until the liquid reaches a level about 2" from the top of the grain bed, at which time I open my HLT to start fly sparging. I match the HLT ball valve's position/flow to that of the MLT and have no issues with the flow of either.

It sounds like your getting stuck most brews though, so could it be your crush? Do you use a lot of wheat?

 

[MaryB]

I have a traditional mash tun but still the same basic thing, false bottom, 1/2 inch ball valve. I start with the valve cracked about 1/3 of the way and as the grain bed settles increase that to 1/2 way open. Never had an issue except for a stuck sparge from a bad grain crush in a free kit I got.