First time kegging

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Pale Ales and Such

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I just bought a used 5 gallon corny keg set from this site:

https://www.kegoutlet.com/basicball20ozkit-basic-homebrew-keg-kit-used-ball-lock-keg-20oz-co2.html
and its coming with the following:
  • NEW single gauge Pin valve CO2 Regulator
  • NEW single gauge Pin valve CO2 Regulator
  • NEW 20oz CO2 Tank (Tank shipped empty)
  • Used 5 Gallon Ball Lock Cornelius Keg
  • NEW 4' CO2 Hose with threaded connection for disconnect
  • NEW 5' Beer hose setup, fully assembled with party tap faucet and threaded connection for disconnect
  • NEW Gas and liquid ball lock disconnects
My questions are:
  1. Is there anything else I need to purchase besides the CO2 refill?
  2. Is a 20oz tank enough for a 5 gallon keg of home brewed IPA?
  3. When I keg it, I know I need to seal the keg and I saw that 30psi should be enough to do that, but what is actually ideal for sealing the keg?
  4. What’s the ideal PSI for an IPA? 2.2?
  5. Once I seal and then begin carbonation, do I leave the gas tank attached for 2 weeks?
  6. When it’s carbonating, do leave it at room temperature or should I keep it at a cooler temperature?
Any tips or advice for kegging? Thanks all for your help.
 
1. Not for right now . Eventually you'll want different lines if you move towards a kegerator or keezer.

2. Yes

3. Your keg can seal at 2 psi if your seals are good. Keg lube is good stuff.

4. I'll have to find the chart for kegging co2 volumes .

5. Once your keg is full you leave the co2 connected to it until the keg kicks.

6. The temp effects the volumes as well as psi. Personally your keg should be kept cold , unless you like room temp beer . Especially IPAs. Stouts are little different and most prefer stouts warmer then an IPA.

I force carb . 30psi for 36 hours , 12 psi for 36 hours and it's all good .


Here you go. Some good info here.
https://www.kegoutlet.com/keg-carbonation-chart.html
 
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My questions are:
  1. Is there anything else I need to purchase besides the CO2 refill?
  2. Is a 20oz tank enough for a 5 gallon keg of home brewed IPA?
  3. When I keg it, I know I need to seal the keg and I saw that 30psi should be enough to do that, but what is actually ideal for sealing the keg?
  4. What’s the ideal PSI for an IPA? 2.2?
  5. Once I seal and then begin carbonation, do I leave the gas tank attached for 2 weeks?
  6. When it’s carbonating, do leave it at room temperature or should I keep it at a cooler temperature?
Any tips or advice for kegging? Thanks all for your help.


1. ingredients to make a brew, and then brew it and ferment it.
2. 20 oz should last a few kegs/beers
3. What Temp are you storing you keg at? That will determine on the pressure needed. I carb mine at (regular which I beleive is at 2) at 14 psi with my fridge temp at 40F. There are charts around ( plus on fermenting buckets) That can help you with this.
4. Look at a see 3.
5. my gas is always on my tanks ( but of course I have a 20lb tank)
6. I do the set a forget meathod. I put my keg in my fridge ( serving temp) hook up the gas and turn it on. bleed off the o2 ( by pulling on the reliefs valve a couple of times) Then leave it for 2 weeks. There is a quick way to carb, but I think you will go through more co2. I can be wrong on that.

Think of the keg as a big bottle. if you wish to only use the co2 for serving, you can naturally carb the keg ( like you would with bottles, with the exception with less sugar. I know beer Smith does the math for you, I’m not sure about the other beer programs.)
 
Couple of things you’ll need.

I’m curious about the regulator. With a 20oz tank, I’m wondering if it’s a quality regulator or something more geared for paintball.

20oz is small for a tank. I can’t say how long it will last. Smallest I’ve got is a 5lb tank. 5lbs will last for quite a while though. Pushing beer doesn’t take much. Carbonating will take a decent amount relatively speaking. If you’re carbonating and serving, you’ll want a bigger tank.

Gas line is negligible. As long as it’s long enough and doesn’t leak, you’re fine. I will suggest some upgrades that aren’t expensive that you might want, but as far as gas goes, it’s not that important. Just needs to not leak.

Your beer line is going to be too short most likely. 5 feet is a common length in retail kegerators. It’s one of the first things I recommend upgrading. Cheaper vinyl line that is 3/8 inside diameter … I usually suggest 11 feet. Shorter lines will pour faster and form more. With your setup, you’re going to notice a lot of foam.

Taps are another consideration. Nothing wrong with a starter picnic tap, but just realize what it can do. They’re cheap plastics. It’s going to foam more than a stainless tap. Coupled with short lines, they’re foam bombs. Think about frat party Budweiser kegs out in the yard. They get the beer out of the keg, but all the futzing around with foam lines is frustrating. With cheap beer, who cares. With your home brew, you’ll care.

Once you hook your keg up, leave the CO2 on and pressurized. I set mine between 10-12 psi. Google search a carbonation chart for beer. You will see various pressures for various temps. Colder beer absorbs more CO2 at a given pressure. Warm beer absorbs less. I keep mine in the 37-39 degree temp range. Some like it cooler, some like it warmer. That’s the nice thing about home brew, you can it to what you like.
 
Oh shoot ! @Jtvann is right that says 20oz not pounds lol. It's a paintball tank. I'd look around for at least a 5 pound tank . Maybe even check out some different stuff . Of course you could sugar prime then serve with that , but I'd look around. Great catch Jtvann
 
Taps are another consideration. Nothing wrong with a starter picnic tap, but just realize what it can do. They’re cheap plastics. It’s going to foam more than a stainless tap. Coupled with short lines, they’re foam bombs. Think about frat party Budweiser kegs out in the yard. They get the beer out of the keg, but all the futzing around with foam lines is frustrating. With cheap beer, who cares. With your home brew, you’ll care.

I agree with with on alll but the taps... just because after 2 years( I think) that is all that I have used. Does real taps work better, not sure, I havnt tried it yet lol.
Things that have not been brought up yet.

does OP have a dedicated beer fridge/keezer.
how far into kegging do they want to go?
 
I agree with with on alll but the taps... just because after 2 years( I think) that is all that I have used. Does real taps work better, not sure, I havnt tried it yet lol.
Things that have not been brought up yet.

does OP have a dedicated beer fridge/keezer.
how far into kegging do they want to go?

Good points . Picnic taps work , the only issue is they are finicky. Takes a little bit of adjustment to get it right .
 
Thanks everyone for all your replies, so I’m reading conflicting info in this thread:

i see some people say 20oz tank will be enough, others say no.

I guess it’s best to upgrade a few things based on the feedback here, such as a higher grade regulator, …(I already have some long tubing I use for my wort chiller and siphon) will this work for my beer line?

as far as upgrading the tank, I will for sure do that later but don’t want to do that right now if I can avoid it..:but let me know what works.

finally, I have some 1 gallon brews currently fermenting. Could I use the 5 gallon corny keg to keg 1 gallon?
 
I agree with with on alll but the taps... just because after 2 years( I think) that is all that I have used. Does real taps work better, not sure, I havnt tried it yet lol.
Things that have not been brought up yet.

does OP have a dedicated beer fridge/keezer.
how far into kegging do they want to go?

I want to eventually stop bottling altogether as this takes too much time to do. My plan is to carbonate at room temperature for 2 weeks before sticking it in a dedicated mini-fridge to bring it down to 34 degrees for cold beer.

I will eventually look into a keezer or something like that
 
Thanks everyone for all your replies, so I’m reading conflicting info in this thread:

i see some people say 20oz tank will be enough, others say no.

I guess it’s best to upgrade a few things based on the feedback here, such as a higher grade regulator, …(I already have some long tubing I use for my wort chiller and siphon) will this work for my beer line?

as far as upgrading the tank, I will for sure do that later but don’t want to do that right now if I can avoid it..:but let me know what works.

finally, I have some 1 gallon brews currently fermenting. Could I use the 5 gallon corny keg to keg 1 gallon?

The confusion started with me . My bad . I thought it was a bigger tank. I used to be an avid paintballer and can assure you 20 oz of co2 isn't enough to carbonate and serve. Probably not even enough to carbonate fully at that. I couldn't tell you if 20 oz is enough to serve a whole keg tbh.

Are you going to brew 1 gallons or 5 ? I wouldn't use a 5 gallon keg for 1 gallon batches . Wasted co2 . I'd get a smaller keg.

What is your housing for your intended keg and what's your budget ? If I were you I'd go a different route then what your looking at .
 
The confusion started with me . My bad . I thought it was a bigger tank. I used to be an avid paintballer and can assure you 20 oz of co2 isn't enough to carbonate and serve. Probably not even enough to carbonate fully at that. I couldn't tell you if 20 oz is enough to serve a whole keg tbh.

Are you going to brew 1 gallons or 5 ? I wouldn't use a 5 gallon keg for 1 gallon batches . Wasted co2 . I'd get a smaller keg.

What is your housing for your intended keg and what's your budget ? If I were you I'd go a different route then what your looking at .

Keep in mind 20 ounces is over 1 lb. in which you are stating a 5 lb is not enough to carbonate more than 5 kegs. 2 oz will not last a year, but it will carb and serve a couple kegs.
 
I want to eventually stop bottling altogether as this takes too much time to do. My plan is to carbonate at room temperature for 2 weeks before sticking it in a dedicated mini-fridge to bring it down to 34 degrees for cold beer.

I will eventually look into a keezer or something like that

I would suggest you do the natural carb. I have done the natural carb once.. with success, that will help preserve some of your co2. I would suggest getting at least one more keg, so that when one empties you can replace it with a full, and ready to serve keg.

As Jag75 pointed out, picnic taps require technique. When I first started I tried to just pour a pint... so much foam. Open the valve completely open with your glass sideways, tilt up slowly as your glass fills. I use a 6 foot hose, 5 foot was to short.
 
The confusion started with me . My bad . I thought it was a bigger tank. I used to be an avid paintballer and can assure you 20 oz of co2 isn't enough to carbonate and serve. Probably not even enough to carbonate fully at that. I couldn't tell you if 20 oz is enough to serve a whole keg tbh.

Are you going to brew 1 gallons or 5 ? I wouldn't use a 5 gallon keg for 1 gallon batches . Wasted co2 . I'd get a smaller keg.

What is your housing for your intended keg and what's your budget ? If I were you I'd go a different route then what your looking at .
No worries at all. My budget is limited right now, I will continue to bottle if I am doing a one gallon brew. However, I don’t want to go through so much bottle cleaning and sanitizing, and bottling itself.
 
According to this, it takes about 3.5 oz to carb a 5 gallon keg, and ~2 to serve. But with only 20oz, you'll want to make sure there aren't any gas leaks in your connections. Can lose a 20lb tank I'm a few days with a leak. 20oz, jeez, could be a few hours, then you're left with nothing to carb...

Homebrew Finds › ...
Web results
Kegging CO2 Use Estimations and Calculations | Homebrew Finds
 
Keep in mind 20 ounces is over 1 lb. in which you are stating a 5 lb is not enough to carbonate more than 5 kegs. 2 oz will not last a year, but it will carb and serve a couple kegs.

I'm surprised that 20 oz will do so much , but when you put it like that I can see what your saying.
 
According to this, it takes about 3.5 oz to carb a 5 gallon keg, and ~2 to serve. But with only 20oz, you'll want to make sure there aren't any gas leaks in your connections. Can lose a 20lb tank I'm a few days with a leak. 20oz, jeez, could be a few hours, then you're left with nothing to carb...

Homebrew Finds › ...
Web results
Kegging CO2 Use Estimations and Calculations | Homebrew Finds


Cool , ty. I guess it also depends on the volume level you want as well as line diameter and length.
 
Unsure about the tubing for wort chiller and siphon but,

Don't use silicone hose for beer lines, it lets too much oxygen in and your beer will deteriorate fast.

Large diameter tubing is not going to help your pour ( refer to the Line length checker above ) and you'll see why.

Suggest you save for some 4 mm internal EVA line for the beer.
 
So. A lot of good feedback here. It seems the only good thing I’m getting in from this package is the corny keg which is fine.

my question is, for the money, what’s the ideal supplies for keg equipment? I can’t break the bank so nothing expensive. I do have a dedicated mini-fridge with a digital temperature control that I use for lagers and Pilsners, so I could use this to keep the keg cold. It seems I need:

- a larger gas tank
- vinyl beer hoses, maybe 11 feet in length
- a higher quality regulator
- maybe better taps for the beer feed?
 
Get some EVA barrier 4mm internal and you'll probably only need 5 foot.
Stainless steel party tap from torpedo just announced been discussed here today but can't find the link I think at more beer. But party tap will do fine at moment
Bigger gas tank and a proper regulator.
second hand fridge.
 
Get some EVA barrier 4mm internal and you'll probably only need 5 foot.
Stainless steel party tap from torpedo just announced been discussed here today but can't find the link I think at more beer. But party tap will do fine at moment
Bigger gas tank and a proper regulator.
second hand fridge.

okie dokie, good list here. And this question seems basic, but do I leave the CO2 tank attached after a 2 week carbonation is done?

and why a 2nd hand fridge?
 
According to this, it takes about 3.5 oz to carb a 5 gallon keg, and ~2 to serve. But with only 20oz, you'll want to make sure there aren't any gas leaks in your connections. Can lose a 20lb tank I'm a few days with a leak. 20oz, jeez, could be a few hours, then you're left with nothing to carb...

Homebrew Finds › ...
Web results
Kegging CO2 Use Estimations and Calculations | Homebrew Finds
At the end of fermentation, your beer will contain about 0.8 volumes of CO2. If you want to carb to 2.5 volumes (a typical value), you will need to add 1.7 volumes to the beer. 1 volume of beer is 2 grams/Liter, and 5 gal of beer is about 19 Liters, thus carbing 5 gal of beer will take about 1.7 * 2 g/L * 19 L = 64.6 g or 2.3 oz. 2.5 volumes requires CO2 at 14 psi for a beer temp of 42°F, and the keg volume is about 20 L. So, the headspace in the keg will contain about 2 volumes of CO2. When you have emptied the keg, you will have 20L at 2 volumes, so the amount of CO2 required to serve will be 2 * 2 * 20 = 80 g or 2.8 oz. The linked calculator in the quoted post appears to have some issues.

So, carbing and serving 5 gal will require about 2.3 + 2.8 = 5.1 oz. Purging the keg of air & O2 will require more CO2 per batch. Realistically, you can expect to carb and serve 2 or 3 kegs from one 20 oz tank.

Brew on :mug:
 
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okie dokie, good list here. And this question seems basic, but do I leave the CO2 tank attached after a 2 week carbonation is done?
At the end of fermentation, your beer will contain about 0.8 volumes of CO2. If you want to carb to 2.5 volumes (a typical value), you will need to add 1.7 volumes to the beer. 1 volume of beer is 2 grams/Liter, and 5 gal of beer is about 19 Liters, thus carbing 5 gal of beer will take about 1.7 * 2 g/L * 19 L = 64.6 g or 2.3 oz. 2.5 volumes requires CO2 at 14 psi for a beer temp of 42°F, and the keg volume is about 20 L. So, the headspace in the keg will contain about 2 volumes of CO2. When you have emptied the keg, you will have 20L at 2 volumes, so the amount of CO2 required to serve will be 2 * 2 * 20 = 80 g or 2.8 oz. The linked calculator in the quoted post appears to have some issues.

So, carbing and serving 5 gal will require about 2.3 + 2.8 = 5.1 oz. Purging the keg of air & O2 will require more CO2 batch. Realistically, you can expect to carb and serve 2 or 3 kegs from one 20 oz tank.

Brew on :mug:

Thanks for the feedback here. Makes me feel better for what I bought. I guess I will just try out everything I got and if it doesn’t work out, it doesn’t work out. But I will upgrade the equipment in the future. The wife is already on my ass for buying a keg hahaha
 
So. A lot of good feedback here. It seems the only good thing I’m getting in from this package is the corny keg which is fine.

my question is, for the money, what’s the ideal supplies for keg equipment? I can’t break the bank so nothing expensive. I do have a dedicated mini-fridge with a digital temperature control that I use for lagers and Pilsners, so I could use this to keep the keg cold. It seems I need:

- a larger gas tank
- vinyl beer hoses, maybe 11 feet in length
- a higher quality regulator
- maybe better taps for the beer feed?
This is my set up, I have a 20 lb tank( I started with a 10lb tank, but it was cheaper to go with a 20 lb tank. I have it refilled at a local wielding shop. 10 lb tank lasted 2 years, set and serve purpose only), with 3 kegs attached, in a regular fridge. Used to be a 10 lb tank in a 5 ft keezer. Picnic taps on a 6 foot line. Gas line is what I need.
My suggestion, search your area to see who refills tanks, and what sizes they do. Much easier to swap tanks then to drop off and wait a day or so. And ask about prices, 10 lb tank was 20 bucks, a 20 lb tank was 23 bucks... for me..

In my experience with brewing, sometimes cheaper is far worse than expensive. Look at where you want to go....
 
okie dokie, good list here. And this question seems basic, but do I leave the CO2 tank attached after a 2 week carbonation is done?

and why a 2nd hand fridge?
Yes leave attached if you are going to drink the beer! As a volume of beer is poured the space must be filled by a volume of gas at the pressure it was at before serving. Otherwise you will start with carbonated beer and finish with flat beer as that condition you let in over 2 weeks comes out.

2nd hand fridge for the keg or as a ferment chamber, otherwise your fermenting beer or your serving beer will suffer without temperature control.
Ask around / advert / ebay / local marketplace for second hand fridge. My ferment fridge " was broken " as it could only chill to freezing without control and I got it for free. I put a STC 1000 on it and it's perfect for my fermenting and cold crashing.
 
Thanks for the feedback here. Makes me feel better for what I bought. I guess I will just try out everything I got and if it doesn’t work out, it doesn’t work out. But I will upgrade the equipment in the future. The wife is already on my ass for buying a keg hahaha
Lol, I learned years ago it's not always best to let the wife know exactly how much you invest In this hobby. My wife would kill me if she figured out how much I've spent over the past 30 odd years. But keep on keeping on. This hobby has great rewards as you progress and learn more and more.

You are getting good info here. And I might add, I've had most every piece of equipment and up grades out there and now I'm back to the basics. I use sixtels or Corny kegs with picnic taps all the time now days. And they work very well and require very little to maintain.
 
I just bought a used 5 gallon corny keg set from this site:

https://www.kegoutlet.com/basicball20ozkit-basic-homebrew-keg-kit-used-ball-lock-keg-20oz-co2.html
and its coming with the following:
  • NEW single gauge Pin valve CO2 Regulator
  • NEW single gauge Pin valve CO2 Regulator
  • NEW 20oz CO2 Tank (Tank shipped empty)
  • Used 5 Gallon Ball Lock Cornelius Keg
  • NEW 4' CO2 Hose with threaded connection for disconnect
  • NEW 5' Beer hose setup, fully assembled with party tap faucet and threaded connection for disconnect
  • NEW Gas and liquid ball lock disconnects
My questions are:
  1. Is there anything else I need to purchase besides the CO2 refill?
  2. Is a 20oz tank enough for a 5 gallon keg of home brewed IPA?
  3. When I keg it, I know I need to seal the keg and I saw that 30psi should be enough to do that, but what is actually ideal for sealing the keg?
  4. What’s the ideal PSI for an IPA? 2.2?
  5. Once I seal and then begin carbonation, do I leave the gas tank attached for 2 weeks?
  6. When it’s carbonating, do leave it at room temperature or should I keep it at a cooler temperature?
Any tips or advice for kegging? Thanks all for your help.
Extra O rings are always helpful
 
Has anyone built a jockey box before? I’m thinking of doing this since I can’t find a used fridge in my area for the cheap. A jockey box seems like a good solution for serving cold draft beer.
 
Has anyone built a jockey box before? I’m thinking of doing this since I can’t find a used fridge in my area for the cheap. A jockey box seems like a good solution for serving cold draft beer.
They are good for picnics, and other outdoor events. They aren't any good for storing beer chilled long term - like you need to do for carbonating.

Brew on :mug:
 
Has anyone built a jockey box before? I’m thinking of doing this since I can’t find a used fridge in my area for the cheap. A jockey box seems like a good solution for serving cold draft beer.

thinking outside the box... you can naturally carb the beer, then you could use a jockey box to serve cold beer, however you will Red a steady stream of ice, be able to drain the box, to prevent a overflow. In turn you will be spending more on ice, and lots of time draining the box.

are you looking for freezers as well? A 5qft freezer (Keezer) works really well for 2-3 kegs. That is what I used for the last 2-3 years, then I wanted a fridge/freezer(trying to keep all my beer stuff together and not evade The other appliances.)
 
Has anyone built a jockey box before? I’m thinking of doing this since I can’t find a used fridge in my area for the cheap. A jockey box seems like a good solution for serving cold draft beer.

As mentioned this isn't ideal . That keg party pack is ideal for what your wanting. You brew 1-2 gallons . Naturally carb it , then use the little co2 cartridge to serve . I have a keg king one thats smaller . The one I listed is a nicer set up as well. My keg king one works really well .
 
I use party taps for my beer and don't have a problem with foam. They are 5' antimicrobial 3/16" tubing and serve at 10-12 psi. Of course everything stays in what was the beer fridge so that may help. Always open tap fully during the pour.
If you eventually upgrade to larger tank and regulator what you have now will be perfect for going to a friend's and bringing one LARGE can of beer with you.
 
Ok, good to know about the jockey box. The big problem I have been running into is cost for a fridge or a chest freezer big enough to hold a 5 gallon corny keg. I’ve looked up to 100 miles of my house and no one seems to be giving away fridges and the average cost is over $200.

I have a mini fridge but how it’s designed, a 5 gallon keg won’t fit. However, a 3 gallon keg could fit. I’m thinking of turning the mini fridge into a kegerator and brew 3 gallon batches rather than 5. This will help eliminate bottling, while giving me a cost effective way to get a kegerator and enjoy my home brew.

then I’ll eventually upgrade to 5 gallons later on down the line
 
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