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silverbullet07

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I have a few questions as I prepare for my first brew session.

I am going to do a partial mash using a 2 gal coleman jug. I have been reading about the process and have a question after you remove the 1st wort and before your next sparge step.

I have read some sources that you should put the first wort in .5 gal boiling water and continue with bringing it up to boiling while wating for the 2nd or 3rd wort.

The reason listed was "(Pouring the wort into the boiling water will stop any enzymatic activity and “fix” the fermentability of that wort. This serves the same purpose as a mash out does in a full mash.)"


I have read other source that just say put it in the brew pot while wating for the 2nd and or third wort to be added then bring to boil. (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Partial_Mash_Simplified)

I was wanting take a gravity reading after I collect the wort so that I can determin my effiency rate. Which seems to be hard if it is boiling.

Will the 2nd way be good enough?

Another question is with my begining boil size. I set my recipe to use a boil size of 6.5 gal. Am I right to think that this 6.5 gal is with my extact added? Should I bring 5.5 - 6 gal to boil, then add my extract and see how much is in my pot, then add water to 6.5?


Also, 10 min before boil is complete, can I add any water that boiled off to get me back to the 5 gal batcg size?

thanks
 
The second way will work just fine for you especially if you want to measure your efficiency. I would personally add 6 gallons to the boil and add your extract at the last 15 minutes, then add some cool sterile water to the primary to make up for any difference if any after things are cool and you are ready to pitch your yeast.
 
I brew all grain and am not sold on the necessity of a mashout so I never really do one so I think you too could get away without it.
 
I have a few questions as I prepare for my first brew session.

I am going to do a partial mash using a 2 gal coleman jug. I have been reading about the process and have a question after you remove the 1st wort and before your next sparge step.

I have read some sources that you should put the first wort in .5 gal boiling water and continue with bringing it up to boiling while wating for the 2nd or 3rd wort.

The reason listed was "(Pouring the wort into the boiling water will stop any enzymatic activity and “fix” the fermentability of that wort. This serves the same purpose as a mash out does in a full mash.)"


I have read other source that just say put it in the brew pot while wating for the 2nd and or third wort to be added then bring to boil. (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Partial_Mash_Simplified)

I was wanting take a gravity reading after I collect the wort so that I can determin my effiency rate. Which seems to be hard if it is boiling.

Will the 2nd way be good enough?

Another question is with my begining boil size. I set my recipe to use a boil size of 6.5 gal. Am I right to think that this 6.5 gal is with my extact added? Should I bring 5.5 - 6 gal to boil, then add my extract and see how much is in my pot, then add water to 6.5?


Also, 10 min before boil is complete, can I add any water that boiled off to get me back to the 5 gal batcg size?

thanks


Well, first... Good luck with the first brew.

The suggestions that you hear about starting the boil are two fold. Yes, they stop the enzymes. Thats the reason some people say they do a mash out and bring the grain to a higher temp. Also helps with the sugars to flow out of the bed easier. Most people thing that you don't need it on a homebrew scale because we are using less and can boil it faster stopping the process. Big breweries have to do a mash out because of the sheer amount of volume and time it takes to get it to the kettle.

However, most people skip a mash out, and will collect their wort until they have their volume and start heating it. It's already 150+ so it doesn't take long to get it to a boil. Also, already heating it, you can get your brew day done faster too.

Personally, I wouldn't put my 1st runnings in ANY water to boil. If you want to start your boil immediately and will be sparging relatively fast for the volume you need, then you could.

I do full mashes, but I normally will drain my tun out, collect my gravity in my graduated cylinder, and cool it down inside to 60 ish while I'm draining the rest of the mash tun. I drain it into my kettle. I'll then sparge, recirculate, and then drain again, until I'm at the volume I need in the kettle.


I'll grab another sample of it all mixed in the kettle to get my pre boil OG, and check my volumes. I'll cool the sample while the boil is starting.

Most people will get it all in the kettle and then bring it to a boil, but it's personal preference.

As for the volumes, 6.5 in your software is thinking the extract is added, it'll add volume to your boil. If you are planning on doing a late extract addition, then I'd suggest figuring out how much you boil off in an hour, and figuring out how much water you need to start the boil. Add the extract and go from there.

Also, You say you have a 5 gal batch size, so I'm assuming thats including your boil off, your loss in the kettle from trub, and the loss of beer when racking over you give you a final goal of 5 gallons at the end?

You won't really be able to tell how much you are short in the kettle at 10 minutes. Adding cold water to your boil at 10 minutes will stop the boil. That brings in a bunch of other issues with hop isomerization, and you'll be boiling longer too. Not to mention when you cool the wort down, you'll have a bit of loss of volume when it cools than you originally measured.

If you need to top off at the end when you've cooled it all down, then add it when you put it in the primary. Stir it well, and take a gravity reading before you pitch.
 
Thanks everyone. Good to know about the late addition on the LME. I read that it is supposed to help with lighter color, reduced caramelization of the extract, and better hop utilization. So anthing to impove my first batch.

Everything makes sense what everyone has said.

Another question, Would it be benificial to take a gravity reading before I add any water in my primary to make up for any boil loss? My thoughts was to see where it was in case it was at or near my expected OG before lowering by adding more water.
 
Another question, Would it be benificial to take a gravity reading before I add any water in my primary to make up for any boil loss? My thoughts was to see where it was in case it was at or near my expected OG before lowering by adding more water.

yes. not only that, but its more difficult to accurately measure the gravity after topping off.
 
Agreed. I'd take the reading prior to adding extra liquid just to see where you stand. After adding the liquid, be sure to stir quite thoroughly (several minutes) before attempting to get another reading, because as dcp pointed out, it's difficult to get an accurate reading since the wort can be challenging to get mixed in properly.
 
yes. not only that, but its more difficult to accurately measure the gravity after topping off.

I agree with you on both counts here, but do take a reading of your gravity AFTER you top up with water..

If you like your gravity where it is at, and you are happy with your volume, you don't have to top up.

However if you do, mix it really well, doubles to aerate the COOLED wort, and then take a reading. Your reading before you add water, wouldn't mean anything if you topped up.
 
I agree with you on both counts here, but do take a reading of your gravity AFTER you top up with water.

why bother? if you took it before topping off you can just calculate the new gravity with better accuracy

OG 1 * Vol 1 = OG 2 * Vol 2
 
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