false bottom option

[Shaggyt]

I saw this splatter screen in Target yesterday and immediately envisioned it as my new false bottom. Measured my keggle opening and it seems it will fit, with some minor fabrication, I think this will work...any opinions?

Hopefully this link works...

http://www.target.com/OXO-Softworks-Splatter-Screen/dp/B001QA46TE/ref=sc_qi_detailbutton

 

[The Pol]

Probably will, I used the foldable steamer basket things when I first started with great results too.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I saw this splatter screen in Target yesterday and immediately envisioned it as my new false bottom. Measured my keggle opening and it seems it will fit, with some minor fabrication, I think this will work...any opinions?

Hopefully this link works...

http://www.target.com/OXO-Softworks-Splatter-Screen/dp/B001QA46TE/ref=sc_qi_detailbutton

I bought one of those but never implemented it. Just never got around to it and now I have a heavy folding FB. You'll obviously have to do something about the handle and you'll also have to devise a way to get a siphon tube in. It seemed just a bit flimsy to me, but I think you could cut a piece of cpvc or something to put under it to support the center. I see no reason it shouldn't work for you.

Good luck,
Ed

 

[Brewmoor]

I have this same splatter screen. I think it will work fine. I am going to fit it with copper tubing for the dip tube and I need to cut it down a bit for it to fit correctly. I was thinking about how to strengthen the center. I will probably make the dip tube go all the way to the bottom of the kettle for support and then drill holes or slits in the copper for intake.

I got mine cheap enough, it is worth a try. It will end up costing me $20 if it works.

 

[Bobby_M]

You'll need to support it in many places.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

You'll need to support it in many places.

+1

I made a plastic FB for a cooler and cut about 6-8 short pieces of PVC and notched the bottom so they didn't restrict flow.

With a keggle, the bottom is not flat so it may be a bit more challenging. You might try a single 3" or 4" diameter section (see what fits in the bottom of the keg).

 

[sjlammer]

If i had a center bottom outlet on my keggle (full draining), could i just set that in as a false-bottom?

 

[Brewmoor]

You'll need to support it in many places.

I was thinking about putting stainless steel studs through it. I have a box of small stainless screws and nuts. If I make a bunch of "legs" for it. I would think between those and the copper pipe it should hold some weight.

If not I will end up buying something. I am getting to the point in my build where I don't want to spend anymore money. Too many little parts keep adding up. I can't wait until I am finished. I am ready to move on and start brewing.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

If i had a center bottom outlet on my keggle (full draining), could i just set that in as a false-bottom?

Maybe. But, I think it is likely to flex under the weight of the grain. When it flexes, it may not do so evenly and may gap in places. It has rings pressed into it which will add some strength but you might have to add something more. I would try to test it to see how it responds to some weight. I think it's worth a try (that's why I bought one).

Ed

 

[Bobby_M]

I think studs would be too much of a pinpoint support. If it were a flat bottom vessel, a circle of "egg crate" style light diffuser would be nice. It would present a grid of support. You'd have to make slots on the bottom to let wort flow.

I'm sure there are a bunch of other options that I'm not thinking of.

 

[Brewmoor]

Has anyone out there converted and used one of these successfully?

I am going to try and use it in a keggle.

So Bobby_M: I do not have a flat bottom to work with. I was thinking I could cut off the outer ring and the sides would touch the bottom of the keggle and the studs and pipe would support the center area. Another thing I am wrestling with is how to make it so I can remove it easily for cleaning.

I bought this thing a few months ago and have yet to really take a look at it. I would love to make it work. Though i am not super attached to it.

 

[Bobby_M]

I actually mistook it for a screen/mesh but now that I look closer, it appears to be a perforated sheet. I think the screw/stud idea would actually work. I'd put them maybe in three different places on the edges of the inner circle.

 

[Brewmoor]

Thanks, I think I will try that. The material seems fairly strong.

 

[Shaggyt]

I probably should have elaborated at the onset, this is a perforated sheet. I was planning on using it in my BK w/diptube drilled in the center (large hard copper pipe w/slits). Also going to cut/fasten a small piece of SS over the handle area.

How much support does a FB need in the BK? I cannot imagine more than 2lbs of hop weight, wet.

 

[Shaggyt]

Bought this screen yesterday and removed the handle. I have some SS sheet I was going to solder to cover the gap left by the handle.

The screen has some flexibility to it so it may need some support. I'll problably use the diptube to support it/hold it in place...how is a different issue.

 

[SAMPLER]

Any pics of this set up?

 

[Shaggyt]

Here's some pics (hope they work)...

Sorry I didn't get any step-by-step photos, just the finished product.

Real easy to alter this:
1. Handle came off with hammer, screwdriver, and tin snips. Took some elbow grease and patience, but was relatively easy.
2. Cut, folded, and hammered SS sheet over the handle opening...thought I'd have to solder in place but I did not. Pressure from the fold/hammering keep it together.
3. Diptube hole was cut using dremel w/cut discs. I basically cut straight down through the screen as if cutting a pie...probably 5-6 times. Then I cut around the circle to drop off the smaller pieces. Grinding stone to smooth out the edges.
4. Cut out keg top to fit FB. I had to get it in there somehow. This was the only PIA. All I had was the dremel and I went through 10 cutting discs to do it...loud too.

The diptube fits pretty snug in the FB for now. I may anchor it in there based on performance. I plan on boiling a couple gallons of water today to see if it stays in place, but next weekend is the brew test so I'll see then.

 

[SAMPLER]

Hate to bother but could you post a slightly large pic

 

[Brewmoor]

Cool. Good to see it finished. I have one at my house I need to convert. My brew rig will be finished this week. So all the little odds and ends will be next.

 

[Bobby_M]

Just had to remove the /thumbs/ out of the URL and insert /medium/

Looks cool.

 

[SAMPLER]

Sweet!
Thanks Bobby

 

[SAMPLER]

double post.. sorry!

 

[Bobby_M]

I was expecting to see some way of disconnecting the siphon tube at the bulkhead. How will you remove the FB?

 

[Brewmoor]

I was expecting to see some way of disconnecting the siphon tube at the bulkhead. How will you remove the FB?

I am curious too. What's your plan for that? I was thinking about a union of some sort so it could come out easy. Have not thought much about it yet.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I am curious too. What's your plan for that? I was thinking about a union of some sort so it could come out easy. Have not thought much about it yet.

I used a a compression fitting in mine. I replaced the compression ring with a stack of silicon o-rings... so far, so good.

Ed

 

[BigJay13]

What kind of hops are you going to be using with this? I currently use a hop bag aka Lil Sparky--do you think this would handle the trub at the end of the boil? I'm using a CFC if that makes a difference.

 

[Shaggyt]

I was expecting to see some way of disconnecting the siphon tube at the bulkhead. How will you remove the FB?

Yah, about that...right now I'll have to loosen the valve just enough to rotate the tube. I kind of got wrapped up in getting the FB in there...d'oh!

Depending on how it goes, I'll probably add a fitting to allow for the tube and FB to be removed w/o touching the valve...may have to shorten the tube though.

What kind of hops are you going to be using with this? I currently use a hop bag aka Lil Sparky--do you think this would handle the trub at the end of the boil? I'm using a CFC if that makes a difference.

I'm planning on using pellets and whole leaf. With any luck, the whole hops will filter the pellets. Any break or hop debris that make into the fermenter will not be a problem, hoping it will be minimal.


Forgot my manners...thanks for the feedback

 

[Shaggyt]

I added a 3/4 union midway through the diptube. It seems to be the best solution. Picture forthcoming, maybe tonight...

Next question...how should I clean this up? I have residual flux everywhere apparently...very sticky.

 

[Brewmoor]

I added a 3/4 union midway through the diptube. It seems to be the best solution. Picture forthcoming, maybe tonight...

Next question...how should I clean this up? I have residual flux everywhere apparently...very sticky.

Does it seem bulky using a union? I need to figure this out before the weekend. It just seemed like a union was overkill size wise.

Here is a picture of a union I used on my valve.

I guess it does not matter much. I am just picky about the size of things when I build stuff. If it works I guess that is all I need. I was hoping for more of a slim lined solution for taking my false bottom out. I need to finish mine before this weekends brew session. Beer number 1 through my new system.

 

[Shaggyt]

Not linking for some reason...

Does it seem bulky using a union?

No...it doesn't seem bulky really, but then again, it is 3/4" so the nut for the union doesn't stand out so much as it might on 1/2" I guess. Without looking at yours to compare, who knows.

To me it looks better considering it will be easier to remove.

 

[samc]

I used the Oxo screen for a few brews. It is cheap stainless and you need to look out for signs of rusting. It worked well but ultimately I went with a more sturdy version from Jaybird.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Not linking for some reason...



No...it doesn't seem bulky really, but then again, it is 3/4" so the nut for the union doesn't stand out so much as it might on 1/2" I guess. Without looking at yours to compare, who knows.

To me it looks better considering it will be easier to remove.

You should also be able to use a 1/2" mpt compression fitting.
Thread the compression fitting into the coupling and insert the pickup tube into the compression side. If you want to make it completely non intrusive, you can also replace the crimp ring in the compression fitting with silicone o-rings.

Ed

 

[Brewmoor]

You should also be able to use a 1/2" mpt compression fitting.
Thread the compression fitting into the coupling and insert the pickup tube into the compression side. If you want to make it completely non intrusive, you can also replace the crimp ring in the compression fitting with silicone o-rings.

Ed

Do you know if it will make enough of a seal if I just hand tighten it? I would probably go the o-ring route.

Thanks, I think I am going to try that first. I have a spare union so I can always use that for a backup. Guess I am making a trip to lowes during my lunch break.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Do you know if it will make enough of a seal if I just hand tighten it? I would probably go the o-ring route.

Thanks, I think I am going to try that first. I have a spare union so I can always use that for a backup. Guess I am making a trip to lowes during my lunch break.

Depending on the fitting, I have had success stacking a few o-rings on the tube and hand tightening. Worst case, you might need an adjustable wrench to snug it up. Test it with water, if it stops draining when the level reaches the fitting (and the output of your valve is below the bottom of the pickup tube) you likely need to tighten it up some.

 

[zudema]

Here my version of that splatter screen for a false bottom. I didn't care for the handle opening so I cut out a smaller circle and reused the edging. Stainless 1" #6 screws for support.

 

[Brewmoor]

Well I used the screen today.........Total disaster. Took me 1 1/2 hours to get my wort from mash tun to boil kettle. That screen just would not hold back my grains. I kept having to pull grains out of the tubes and eventually had to pull out my diaphram pump and start sucking off the top using a fine sreen. Then used the diaphram pump to blow air up through the bottom of the screen to clear things out. I did that about 10 times.

I tried all different flow rates to get it right. I am convinced I should just save time and buy a false bottom. Oh well. It was worth a shot. I just could not get it to seal right to the bottom of the keg.

 

[Bobby_M]

I have a feeling you were getting grain around the sides of the circle, not through the holes. Those holes are smaller than most false bottoms I've ever seen.

 

[Brewmoor]

I have a feeling you were getting grain around the sides of the circle, not through the holes. Those holes are smaller than most false bottoms I've ever seen.

Yeah that is what was happening. I could not get it to seal right.The edges were pealing up. It had too much flex even with the small studs I put in to hold things firm. I played around with it on saturday when i was running a cleaning solution through the rig. I just had to go with it yesterday to get this beer done. Our club is filling a whiskey barrel and I needed to get 10 gallons into carboys before the end of the weekend. It was not fun.

 

[Shaggyt]

I brewed yesterday using lots of pellets and some whole leaf hops to test out the FB. Worked great...for about 10 seconds!!!

Clogged up and would not drain...had to autosiphon the wort out of the keg!!!

We'll see what happened today when I clean up but I have feeling the sides also were the culprit. I had not tested with a boil so if the sides did peel up, it would have happened then.

On the positive side, the diptube I made will stay for certain...that 10 seconds it did work drained off about a gallon of wort.

To be continued...

 

[Shaggyt]

Whole leaf hops got under my FB...I've soldered a piece of SS onto the diptube to hold the FB down firmly...we'll see how this works next brewday.