this is probably the 100th time someone has said this, but has anyone come across a step by step (in laymans terms) where they've provided pictures mounting in the collar PLUS adding an AC 110V fan inside the keezer? there are just too many pages to read and i'm going cross-eyed..
thanks for your help this is great info
I wish a mod would sticky a post or two with the best info on this topic. Seems like every week someone has the same problem.
With more than 200 pages thread? No wonder! I second to previous post. Wiki or sticky!!
Got mine Friday. Finally had time this afternoon to get it wired up. Took about 1/2 hour. Used two outlets, one always on for my fan and one split to heat/cool. Seems to be working like a champ.
Do you have the wiring diagram for how to have a split heat/cool plust two always on? This thread is so long, I don't know where to look.
Would be possible to repost the information for your webpage here in English. I like what I saw but am interested in the description provided.
Well, the eBay ad/listing said 5A, the one-page "manual" that came with it said 10A, and, when I slipped the housing off, the actual component said 15A! I'm going with the assumption that I'm golden, and quietly hoping they're not using factory seconds or some such nonsense in the construction of these high-dollar contraptions.
-j
i was excited about the prospect of this temp controller, so i got one from ebay and put the whole thing in a project box from radio shack. one plug is switched for heating and the other for cooling. i have yet to build up my fermentation chamber that i'll use this on, but preliminary tests confirmed that the unit worked great. there is a 0.3 deg C differential on this thing, so it is pretty accurate and easy to set. i used a 14 gauge extension cord for all the wires. it does read in celcius, but that's OK by me.
all of the parts:
did some sloppy cut outs and wired it up:
power cord and sensor gives plenty of slack:
close up of the temp controller:
powered up:
my wiring diagram (sloppy also). i only used one wire nut to join the hot wires as you can see in one of the pics above. also, very important to break off the jumper tab on the hot side so you can control each outlet independently.
eryk4381 said:So i guess I'm confused about the Heating part.
I get the wiring and such and cooling makes sense but how is the fridge or mini fridge supposed to heat? Am i just missing the step where you need to add an element of some sort?
You need an external heat source. I purchased a ceramic reptile heater bulb (Zoo Med brand) and a clip-on work light from lowes and gave that a shot. My problem though is that freezer and bulb continuously cycle on and off and the temperature swings back and forth by at least five degrees instead of staying steady.
Does anyone have a solution to this problem? I have a 100 watt bulb - I think it may be too strong and the ceramic bulb retains heat for too long after being turned off by the controller so when the chamber heats up to the right temp, the bulb turns off but continues to heat up the space, requiring the freezer to kick on and cool it down but not before it heats up an extra number of degreees. I have the controller settings at what was recommended in this thread. I'm thinking a lower watt incandescent bulb would be better - maybe with a fan also?
You shouldn't have to heat unless there is a specific fermentor you want warmer than everything else. I use a FermWrap to heat fermenting beer while I keep the rest of the chamber at about 40F (for serving).
You need an external heat source. I purchased a ceramic reptile heater bulb (Zoo Med brand) and a clip-on work light from lowes and gave that a shot. My problem though is that freezer and bulb continuously cycle on and off and the temperature swings back and forth by at least five degrees instead of staying steady.
Does anyone have a solution to this problem? I have a 100 watt bulb - I think it may be too strong and the ceramic bulb retains heat for too long after being turned off by the controller so when the chamber heats up to the right temp, the bulb turns off but continues to heat up the space, requiring the freezer to kick on and cool it down but not before it heats up an extra number of degreees. I have the controller settings at what was recommended in this thread. I'm thinking a lower watt incandescent bulb would be better - maybe with a fan also?
Dual-stage temperature control has its place, but in this case it'll probably just lead to oscillations.
Haven't replied on this in awhile, but if you keep the probe in or right upto the fermentor, you wont' overshoot you're temp. The large termal mass will slow down the response enough to prevent it. That's what I do anyways.
Thanks for the replies, fellas. Admittedly when I tested mine I just had my temp probe hanging in the middle of the freezer so I'll give it another whirl with the probe up against a carboy with bubble wrap duct taped around it. I have a muffin fan that I haven't installed yet so I'll do that as well.
With my probe taped to the side I get very little short cycling. I have my buffer set to 0.5*C, too.
With my probe taped to the side I get very little short cycling. I have my buffer set to 0.5*C, too.
MY STC is up and running. I went the light bulb route as a heater and concerned will light leaking effect fermentation I thought I read it would not as its a different type uv level????
zachattack said:A standard incandescent light shouldn't have any effect.
Yes? No? Better safe than sorry?
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/uv-rays-incandescent-bulb-151362/
MY STC is up and running. I went the light bulb route as a heater and concerned will light leaking effect fermentation I thought I read it would not as its a different type uv level????
How hard was it to wire that bad boy? I have no wiring knowledge but I've been looking at that exact same controller.Here's my controller. Control Products from Amazon - $60 plus a few bits - maybe $15 - from Lowe's and Home Depot. It's a 2 stage unlike most sold in the brew stores which only cool OR heat to a set point. Getting the freezer soon.
How hard was it to wire that bad boy? I have no wiring knowledge but I've been looking at that exact same controller.
Thank you for this thread, This controller has been running my fermentation fridge and kegerator for over a year now without issues.
Thank you for this thread, This controller has been running my fermentation fridge and kegerator for over a year now without issues.
Since this thread is about the STC-1000 controller, I would assume that is the one he is talking about. To date, there has yet to be a confirmed failure of one of these units- so long as you don't order the 220V version thinking you got one ~$5 cheaper than everyone else.The Control Products version or one like it? Do you ever need or use a heat source? If so, what?
The Control Products version or one like it? Do you ever need or use a heat source? If so, what?
Most commercially available PID controllers are inappropriate for use with compressor based cooling, or for slow responding systems (like large thermal masses with relatively small cooling/heating inputs- sound familiar?).If I was going to go to something else it would be a PID controller for more intelligent switching.
Enter your email address to join: