wyzazz
Well-Known Member
Sounds like it would work to me, if you don't get enough heat from the light bulb you could always wire in a 2nd one. You may also want to think about wiring in a little muffin fan/computer fan for circulating the air.
You know, if you've got a 12V power adapter, you could just mount one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96144
Android,
Thank you for posting this buddy, I think I found my answer. This is what I am trying to accompish:
I have a 15CF chest freezer that is dedicated to fermenting two sanke kegs of 10 gallon batches each. During the summer my garage is hot. I purchased this http://www.chicompany.net/freezer-conversion-thermostat-remote-bulb-933.html
and think it is a POS that will work for the summer if I can ever dial in the temperature correctly.
Now the winter is a different story. I will need heating since the garage drops to 40ish at times. I was considering doing exactly what you did with the control box and receptacle. One for cooling and one for heating. The cooling is obviously accomplished by the freezer and MY heating would be accomplished by a 100W lightbulb secured within the freezer.
Does this sound like it will work?
Thanks for the help
Joe
I just wanted to thank Andrew and all you guys for posting replys on this thread. I just got mine in the mail and can't wait to get this hooked up. The thing that suprised me was the size, it's small. Can we use another temp probe?
Thanks again
That heater is listed at 13A, the controller is only listed for 10A.
The instructions that came with my controller say it's rated for 15A.
I need some help. I think I'm missing something.
I built my temp controller, and it worked fine at first, but after the heater kicked in and got the temp up to where I want it and the heater turned off, it never turned back on. The temperature dropped below where I have it set, but didn't turn back on. Now, I've been messing with it for a couple days, and it's been below temperature and had the "heat" light on, but it's also been below temp and the heat light didn't come on. Now, earlier tonight I didn't have anything plugged into it, and the light was on. When I plugged my heater in, it turned on and got it up to the right temperature, but then it wouldn't turn on again when it cooled down.
I double-checked the wiring, and it's wired just like Android's diagram.
Any ideas/suggestions?
What happens if you just plug in a light bulb or lamp to the heater outlet instead? Is the heater drawing more than 10-15amps?
Agreed. that was my first thought.Two things
First, it has to be below where you have it set by a specific amount. That's the differential adjustment. If you have it set at 5C with a differential of 1C, it won't turn on the heat until the temp gets to 4C.
It only has a delay for the cooling..."compressor cool down" as they call it.Second, if the temp is dropping quickly, you could be running into the anti short cycle delay. After it turns off, it won't turn back on within that amount of time.
I haven't really been able to monitor it at all because I haven't been around, but it seems to be working okay now.
I thought that the temperature differential was the amount it would overheat. For example, if it were set at 5c with a differential of 1c, it would turn it on at 5c, and heat it until it got to 6c.
Apparently, I was mistaken.
So, I'll try to keep an eye on what it's doing over the weekend and I'll be sure to update.
Thanks, guys. I appreciate the help.
Alright, I understand now. (In the second line, you meant to say cooling contact, right?)
It seems kind of backwards to me that they would do it that way. Oh well.
But that was my problem, and everything is working fine. Sorry, I'm a little slow sometimes.
So, while we're at it, where is everyone setting their differentials? Mine is set at .6 right now, giving me a one degree F swing.
Aaaaaand what is the point of the cooling delay?
Alright, I understand now. (In the second line, you meant to say cooling contact, right?)
It seems kind of backwards to me that they would do it that way. Oh well.
But that was my problem, and everything is working fine. Sorry, I'm a little slow sometimes.
So, while we're at it, where is everyone setting their differentials? Mine is set at .6 right now, giving me a one degree F swing.
Aaaaaand what is the point of the cooling delay?
I'm using a .5 degree differential with a 10 or 15 minute delay. The point is that often refrigeration doesn't like being short cycled, sometimes to the point of an early demise.
how did you do a 15min delay...I thought you could only choose 1,2, or 3 min?
Greetings all - I'm about to start building my first Kegerator (Keezer actually) and this temperature controller looks perfect since it is only 30 bucks shipped. My only concern is the max amperage rating of 10 amps at 220 volts. Is that a high enough rating to switch a Freezer compressor? I'm not sure how much amperage a freezer draws, but I do know that 10 amps at 110 volts is half as much wattage as 10 amps at 220 volts. I'm not sure if that matters, but if anyone could give some insight as to whether these aquarium temperature controllers can handle a freezer, I'd appreciate it.
Maybe this is showing my ignorance...but my freezer says current = 1.70. Does anyone know what that equates to for the controller?
I'm not sure of your question...if the current is 1.7 amps then you're ok.
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