Doubling Down: SS Brewtech Conical + FTSS + Glycol Power Pack

[conan71]

I troubleshooted the pump and it worked fine. No idea what the deal was. This is the second time this has happened. First time, I had to manipulate the pump within the glycol chiller for it to work properly, and it was completely submerged the entire time. Last time, I removed the pump, submerged it in water under I had proper flow through the lines, then placed it back in the glycol tank. It definitely was an issue with an air bubble within the lines or FTSS coils. Not sure exactly how to permanently fix it but I'm trying to figure out some preventative measure so that it doesn't happen again.

What are you using for a circulation pump?

Every pump has a certain amount of static or head pressure they are designed to work with. Essentially, there are pumps designed as siphon pumps which can prime quite easily not submerged in liquid. Others are designed to be under x inches or feet of fluid for them to work efficiently.

If it is the standard SSBT submersible pump, they don't seem to require a good deal of static pressure. If it's an aquarium pump, that could be a different issue depending on the design. If it is the standard SS pump, there's a rubber "snoot" over the intake of the pump, pull that off and make double certain there is nothing stuck in the impeller of the pump like a small piece of cellophane or something like that.

 

[Gustatorian]

What are you using for a circulation pump?

Every pump has a certain amount of static or head pressure they are designed to work with. Essentially, there are pumps designed as siphon pumps which can prime quite easily not submerged in liquid. Others are designed to be under x inches or feet of fluid for them to work efficiently.

If it is the standard SSBT submersible pump, they don't seem to require a good deal of static pressure. If it's an aquarium pump, that could be a different issue depending on the design. If it is the standard SS pump, there's a rubber "snoot" over the intake of the pump, pull that off and make double certain there is nothing stuck in the impeller of the pump like a small piece of cellophane or something like that.

I have the standard SS pump. I'll check the intake once the pump is not in commission.

 

[ensano]

I'm assuming he's pumping wort in and out. That's what I'll be doing since I'm going to be brewing 1 bbl batches.

how do you clean the fermenter? I haven't seen much talk of automated cleaning for them

 

[akthor]

CIP sprayball.

 

[Gustatorian]

CIP sprayball.

I'd like to see one of these in action before I purchase. I have to disassemble the FTSS coils and lid, giving them a good scrub so the yeast/hop residue comes off. I have a hard time believing that a simple sprayball can wash out all that stuff.

 

[akthor]

There's some threads about guys using them. They don't dissamble.

 

[Gustatorian]

There's some threads about guys using them. They don't dissamble.

If you find it, let me know! Always looking to make the clean-up process a little more seamless.

 

[akthor]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=582434

 

[Tiber_Brew]

I pipcked up a spray ball from brewer's hardware and love it. I CIP my Ss conicals with 150F water and PBW for about 20 minutes, rinse with a hose, then run a 10 minute hot water rinse through the same loop. Works like a charm. Before brew day I run warm water and Saniclean through the CIP loop for about 5 minutes through each valve.

Unlike the guy in akthor's link above, I do remove both valves for a PBW soak each time. I have no basis for this other than being cautious.

 

[rdavidw]

I really like this option, but it is 1/2 the cost for less than 1/3rd the cooling power.


Adam

Here is my 1/2 HP aquarium chiller set up: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=621602 Lots of power and not too expensive at $450. Less than 1/2 the price of the SS Brewtech unit and has more power.

 

[rdavidw]

HELP! Anyone have an air bubble in their line that is impeding glycol flow??? Don't know how to fix it!

What water to glycol mix are you using? Too heavy on the glycol will make the pump move very slow and may be too weak to clear the air bubbles. I recommend two parts RO or distilled water to one part glycol. I keep mine at 28F with no problems.

 

[Duda_Energy]

Adding to the above ^

It's best to use as little glycol as possible, as water is the better heat transfer medium. You need just enough glycol to keep the water from freezing (plus 10% in case something varies).

% Glycol / Freeze Temp (F)

10 / 26
20 / 18
30 / 7
40 / -8
50 / -29
60 / -55

 

[rdavidw]

Adding to the above ^

It's best to use as little glycol as possible, as water is the better heat transfer medium. You need just enough glycol to keep the water from freezing (plus 10% in case something varies).

% Glycol / Freeze Temp (F)

10 / 26
20 / 18
30 / 7
40 / -8
50 / -29
60 / -55

I started with 50 / 50 thinking the more the better. Took a very long time to cool. Going to 1/3 glycol seems to have cut the time in almost half. With me holding at 28F sounds like I could go with 1/4 glycol safely.

Is there an advantage in the finished beer to cool with a higher temp? For example, a more slow and gental 50F glycol pool temp that takes 15 min to bring your must down one degree vs a 10F glycol pool that does it in 15 seconds. With the lower glycol pool temp, does some portion of the must get much colder and the yeast goes dormant for a bit?

 

[jddevinn]

See attached publication on glycol mixture rate and set temperatures.

View attachment GLYCOLGUIDE.pdf

 

[R_Horn]

See attached publication on glycol mixture rate and set temperatures.

Thank You

 

[Dcpcooks]

I'd like to see one of these in action before I purchase. I have to disassemble the FTSS coils and lid, giving them a good scrub so the yeast/hop residue comes off. I have a hard time believing that a simple sprayball can wash out all that stuff.

Mine works like a champ. I pull off the valves and give them a quick clean then assemble and run through a cip cycle. No issues after two years and I ferment with wild and sacc yeast all the time. I have a batch fermenting now with the mad fermentationist Brett saison strain and I'm going to put a lager in it next. I do swap out triclamp gaskets for Brett.

 

[Gustatorian]

Am I really the only one who is getting air bubbles stuck in their glycol chiller, hindering it from working? I have two pumps in my glycol unit, that constantly get air bubbles upon first using them. Once the air bubble is worked out, they function perfectly until I clean my fermentor. I remove the glycol lines to the coil when I clean, exposing them to air, and that's where the air bubbles are introduced. Is there any solution to this (and I'm not looking to CIP) ? When I remove the glycol lines, is there something I do to prevent air bubbles from entering? Getting the air bubbles removed is a stressful 30 minute process. Any advice will help.

 

[helterscelter]

Am I really the only one who is getting air bubbles stuck in their glycol chiller, hindering it from working? I have two pumps in my glycol unit, that constantly get air bubbles upon first using them. Once the air bubble is worked out, they function perfectly until I clean my fermentor. I remove the glycol lines to the coil when I clean, exposing them to air, and that's where the air bubbles are introduced. Is there any solution to this (and I'm not looking to CIP) ? When I remove the glycol lines, is there something I do to prevent air bubbles from entering? Getting the air bubbles removed is a stressful 30 minute process. Any advice will help.

You could use quick disconnects which are spill proof. So when you unhook the lines your coil stays full of glycol. You just Need to ensure you have some flexible hose between the coil and the disconnect. Without the hose the pressure will build as the glycol warms up and you won't be able to hook the lines back up.

 

[Gustatorian]

You could use quick disconnects which are spill proof. So when you unhook the lines your coil stays full of glycol. You just Need to ensure you have some flexible hose between the coil and the disconnect. Without the hose the pressure will build as the glycol warms up and you won't be able to hook the lines back up.

How much hose do I need between the hose and coil? Can you send me a link to the quick disconnects?

 

[helterscelter]

How much hose do I need between the hose and coil? Can you send me a link to the quick disconnects?

http://www.homebrewing.org/PolyPlastic-Disconnects_c_423.html

I've used these. Depends on what size hose you have.

As for size. I think a couple inches is ok. Just has to be enough to allow some flex as the pressure builds when it warms up.

 

[Duda_Energy]

I'd add that glycol bubbles more when its going bad. Fresh glycol might help the issue.

 

[akthor]

Glycol goes bad??? How long is it good for?

 

[Duda_Energy]

Glycol goes bad??? How long is it good for?

Most manufacturers rate it for 2 years. After about 2 years it starts to slowly break down in several different acids. This is why it is important to use inhibited glycol - this version comes with anti-corrosion inhibitors that form a film on your metals to prevent issues with the acids.

Of course, I've seen people use it for longer without issue. Three things can contribute to the glycol breaking down - oxygen, heat, and time. If you can eliminate 2 or 3 of those factors, the glycol lasts longer. Alternatively, if you regularly heat your glycol up more than 104F, or your system isn't airtight, then you may want to change it out even more often.

 

[Gustatorian]

http://www.homebrewing.org/PolyPlastic-Disconnects_c_423.html

I've used these. Depends on what size hose you have.

As for size. I think a couple inches is ok. Just has to be enough to allow some flex as the pressure builds when it warms up.

Which disconnects are you looking at on the page? The male/female 3/8" ?? Looks like that gets pretty price when I have to buy 2 sets for each conical.

 

[helterscelter]

Which disconnects are you looking at on the page? The male/female 3/8" ?? Looks like that gets pretty price when I have to buy 2 sets for each conical.

Yes they can be pretty spendy.

 

[PenguinChillers]

I asked Penguin about cooling a glycol bath to 25-30F, here's their response:

As mentioned we were developing a colder chiller at the time of your inquiry, it's now finished I'm happy to report that it can achieve temperatures below the 15-20F that we were originally aiming for.

Thanks
Eric Petty
Penguin Chillers

 

[helibrewer]

As mentioned we were developing a colder chiller at the time of your inquiry, it's now finished I'm happy to report that it can achieve temperatures below the 15-20F that we were originally aiming for.

Thanks
Eric Petty
Penguin Chillers

Looks like a nice unit, and a great price point....

 

[akthor]

I ordered the penguin I couldn't resist. $50 off preorder coupon meant basically free shipping too.. I'll do a review when I get it.

 

[Gustatorian]

Just wondering, has anyone pushed CO2 through the dump valve in order to re-suspend hops back into the wort? I'd really love to hear more about that process!

 

[JohnnyBe]

I ordered the penguin I couldn't resist. $50 off preorder coupon meant basically free shipping too.. I'll do a review when I get it.

Where did you find the coupon for $50 off?

 

[rdavidw]

This looks to be about the same set up for about 1/2 the cost of the Penguin: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=621602

 

[akthor]

It was for the pre order. Put Preorder in the coupon code. Not sure if its still valid tho. Mine was shipped so I think the preorder is over.

 

[akthor]

Umm no not the same at all. There's a difference between an aquarium chiller using an external cooler and a purpose built Glycol Chiller.

AND you can DIY one using an AC unit for 1/2 the cost of the one in your pic if cost is the deciding factor for you.

This looks to be about the same set up for about 1/2 the cost of the Penguin: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=621602

 

[JohnnyBe]

It was for the pre order. Put Preorder in the coupon code. Not sure if its still valid tho. Mine was shipped so I think the preorder is over.

Thanks. It doesn't seem to work anymore. Guess I'll hold off on buying it until I get my brewing area completely built out. Figured I'd order it now and save the $50. Oh well.

 

[akthor]

I bet if you email them they'll give you the discount its only been a day.

 

[akthor]

Got the penguin chiller. Hadn't cleaned and passified my 1BBL fermenters yet so after cleaning and doing a leak check I filled each one with 40 gallons of 100F water and sanitizer hooked up the penguin to the FTS systems started at 3am (I work overnights so I have weird sleep habits) when I got up at 8:30am both fermenters were at the 60F I set the FTS at. Later in the week when I have time I'll take them down to Lagering temps and see how it does.

 

[boasist]

Can anyone shed some light on how to remove the glycol lines safely and clean? I did a test run tonight and I had some clamps on the lines but I got lots of runoff from the coil inside, I disconnected the top first, but it didn't run down. So basically the fluid in the coil just ran out, anyway to avoid that?

Thank you.

 

[Gustatorian]

Can anyone shed some light on how to remove the glycol lines safely and clean? I did a test run tonight and I had some clamps on the lines but I got lots of runoff from the coil inside, I disconnected the top first, but it didn't run down. So basically the fluid in the coil just ran out, anyway to avoid that?

Thank you.

Get some quick-disconnects. It was one of the best upgrades for my system. I initially got them because I was having issues with air bubbles impeding the flow of the glycol (which they corrected), but they disassemble easily, without a mess, and make cleaning the chronical much more efficient.

 

[boasist]

I got the disconnects in today yet I must have F'd up. I bought ball lock disconnects on amazon yet they have no block for the fluid. Perhaps I should get cam-lock, yet I can't find any proof that these block the liquid as well.

Also, I just started cold crashing with the system today and I have it set to 32, chiller set to 26, it's struggling to keep the beer there. It's hovering around 35 for 12+ hours now. Plus there is crazy condensation on the tubing from the chiller to the chronical.

 

[Gustatorian]

I got the disconnects in today yet I must have F'd up. I bought ball lock disconnects on amazon yet they have no block for the fluid. Perhaps I should get cam-lock, yet I can't find any proof that these block the liquid as well.

Also, I just started cold crashing with the system today and I have it set to 32, chiller set to 26, it's struggling to keep the beer there. It's hovering around 35 for 12+ hours now. Plus there is crazy condensation on the tubing from the chiller to the chronical.

I got these guys and their corresponding parts and they do the trick: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/i...dtWPNa_Nntnrimj56O5WMvpdB5FhlaZ4iHxoC-MLw_wcB

I never cold-crash that low (usually around 40), but I still get crazy condensation, even with replacing the stock tubing with thicker-walled tubing. Wish there was a work-around for this...