Last weekend I made my first brew in a year; couldn't figure out why the HLT was taking so long to fill. I also left the valve open. It must be April or something.
I'm afraid I've done that before. For that reason I have a pair of oven mitts handy to help avoid that.Don't try to re-position your whirlpool hose barehanded with 190 F degree wort and, if you do, don't spray hot wort on your foot! Oh, did you know that 190 F degree wort burns?
Boiling in an Erlenmeyer flask is never a good idea!I'm boilin' up my starter in the flask.
Oh, I forgot to mix in some yeast nutrient.
I'll just do that now...
Don't do that.
I bet you will be fine... of course you will always 'notice it' but i bet no one else will!!!I screwed up today. I was making a Cilantro Lime wheat beer. I was supposed to add lime juice and zest with 5 minutes left to go in the boil and forgot. I was chilling and down to about 100 when I realized it. So I removed the hops (in a spider), reheated the wort to 185 and added the juice and zest and let it steep for 5 minute. Probably it will be fine, but a huge waste of time and water (fortunately water is fairly inexpensive around here).
I screwed up today.
Good to know, thanks for the infoWhen transferring from your brand spanking new fermzilla, there's a few things we don't do. DON'T forget to open the valve on the fermzilla so the co2 from the receiving keg goes back in it, keeping the siphon going. DON'T forget to loosen the straps so the vessel can be tipped over to get the last of the beer. And finally; watch some youtube and google before trying to take the lid off using a screwdriver in the liquid-out hole. It cracked. New one coming (only $10, not too fussed), but it's aggravating. And one last thing; if you go the route of adding co2 to the empty vessel to get the lid to pop off, DON'T forget to release the pressure first. I almost blackened my eye that thing came off so fast with only 5psi in it.
FDT - and I don't think anyone applies exogenous CO2 to an FDT to carbonate a keg as the performance would be virtually identical to simply applying CO2 to the gas In post like normies doAre you not supposed to carbonate through the FTD?
LOL, FDT, and yes I need to post when I haven't had a few beers. Disregard my previous post.FDT - and I don't think anyone applies exogenous CO2 to an FDT to carbonate a keg as the performance would be virtually identical to simply applying CO2 to the gas In post like normies do
The issue here was the FDT was hooked to the In post - so dispensing would be a hella big challenge...
Cheers!
LOL, FDT, and yes I need to post when I haven't had a few beers. Disregard my previous post.
If I did that, there is no doubt that it would squirt me right in the crotch.When sanitizing a keg by overfilling it with StarSan through the liquid post and a bare disconnect on the gas post...use a gas disconnect with a short bit of hose that points down to the drain....do NOT just grab a bare gas disconnect and absent-mindedly leave it pointing right at yourself while closing the lid!
I won't bet against you on that.I brewed yesterday and today, each one got just one tsp of fermax; so it does remain to be seen if my theory here is correct. But I'm betting it is.
Nothing (unless the temp gets below -109°F / -78.5°C, in which case the liquid CO2 will freeze.)Now I’m wondering what, if anything, this does to the CO2
Agreed, too much of a good thing isn’t always good. Now, may I ask when do you add the nutrients?Yeast nutrient has zinc, which can kill yeast; and cause a nasty metallic/bloodlike flavor in the finished beer. Thanks to whoever posted that on BBF. I have been racking my tiny mind for weeks trying to figure out why my beers were plagued with acetaldehyde, which we all know is produced as a by-product of fermentation; the yeast will clean it up when they're done with the big party. But if those yeast are killed dead by zinc (or overwork because of the dead guys) at the end of the party, that acetaldehyde will continue on into the finished beer. Along with possible metallic/rust/blood flavors that nobody likes unless you have friends named Bella and whatever those guys' names are from twilight. Not only did I figure it out from the BBF, but going to the way-back machine and checking my notes from my first almost perfect PF lager (where I was almost out of fermax and only used a scant tsp) made me smack myself upside the head.
I brewed yesterday and today, each one got just one tsp of fermax; so it does remain to be seen if my theory here is correct. But I'm betting it is.
TL;DR, but do NOT overdo the yeast nutrient.
I need the LN2 upgrade to my dorm fridge and insulation board ferm chamber to get there.Nothing (unless the temp gets below -109°F / -78.5°C, in which case the liquid CO2 will freeze.)
Brew on
15 minutes before end of boil. Sometimes 10 if I forget.Agreed, too much of a good thing isn’t always good. Now, may I ask when do you add the nutrients?
That sucks. How does it taste?Oatmeal Stout
use my 4000ml all the time, came close to one boil over once.Boiling in an Erlenmeyer flask is never a good idea!
use my 4000ml all the time, came close to one boil over once.
That's assuming that we're talking about a real pyrex glass flask (or equivalent).
I do that all the time without breaking any glass.The unaware can easily end up with a sugar saturate stove and an incandescent spouse...
I strategically withdrew to the laundry before conflict broke out. Plus it was a good excuse to buy a grandfather.First boilover ever on the stove became my "Hello Joseph, meet Mr. Garage" moment.
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