Does anyone have any info on these pots? JARHILL 96/70 QT Stainless Steel Stock Pots

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These might make better fermenters than kettles....but then again, maybe not if they rust.....
 
ScubaSteve said:
These might make better fermenters than kettles....but then again, maybe not if they rust.....
Click to expand...

Why would you say that? What would make them a better fermenter? Just curious.

The handles are the parts that rust. So far after about 8 batches, I have yet to have any problems with the pots. I have recently switched up to the 22.5 gallon for 10 gallon batches as it is difficult to mash a high(er) gravity beer in a 17.5 gallon pot BIAB. Beersmith has called for almost 18 gallons a few times....
 
In case anyone has noticed, that 3 set is no longer offered. The seller is not planning on putting them back up, but does still have this set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261262223538, which is a 96/70/49/35 set. I just ordered 3 while I still could, and plan to resell the ones locally that I don't end up using. These still seem to be working well for those that have them? (I really hope so!)
 
D_Nyholm, When using this for BIAB do you use a steamer basket? if so what basket are you using?
 
old post but....looking good so far

2013-12-28 14.53.49.jpg
 
I also ordered the Jarhill 96/70/49/35 qt set... The quality on them is decent, but mine had a few minor dings around the top of the pots where the handles hit the pots... no big deal though.

I tested dimpling and silver soldering a coupling into the pot last night... came out GREAT. I hooked up a valve and water tested it, no leaks at all. i was also being a little intentionally rough with the valve attached... the metal on the pot was flexing and the coupling had no give. awesome. so much cheaper than weldless fittings, especially if you're going to install a couple ports. highly suggested.

my question is, how are you guys using your pots? I only bought one set, i was originally planning on using the 12.25g as the HLT, the 24g as my MLT, and the 17.5 as my BK. Now i'm thinking of swapping the BK and MLT, giving me 24g boil capacity, and 17.5 as MLT, which should allow me to do 15gals of a small beer, 10 gallons of a big beer. any suggestions?
 
I am using the 12.25g as the HLT, the 17.5 as my MLT, and the 24 as my BK

Soldering worked great for me also..I ran a test run of hot water the other day all seems about ready to go

I have only been brewing for about a year 1/2 upgrading from a turkey fryer so I am not one to say...maybe after it all works :)

2014-02-22 12.48.21.jpg
 
I bought 3 sets and use the 17g for everything. I sold the rest to brew club members and friends for dirt cheap prices and actually came out like $50 ahead. Everyone seems happy, I told everyone about the caveats up front, but at the prices no one seemed to care. 24g for the mlt would be way to big for me. The 17g seems to be more than big enough for anything I have put in there. With the wider bases of these you have to be careful with losing efficiency due to a shallow grain bed when fly sparging. For me the 12g would be way too small for the hlt. 24g bk would be hard to do a 5g batch with electric, but if you only do larger give it a go. I made PJ/Kal mixture eherms system and these kettles saved me like $1200 over the boilermakers. So far they have been a great investment and wouldn't hesitate to get them again.

2014-01-17%2009.18.45.jpg
 
I've been looking at upgrading my kettle to a bigger size and am seriously considering pulling the trigger on this deal. Jarhill now has a set of 96/70/49 for $107 shipped. Prior to discovering this thread I was debating between the Concord stainless or a cheap but sturdy aluminum pot (debate for another thread). Comparing Jarhill to Concord:


  • Jarhill is 18/0 and Concord is 18/8 stainless, which means Concord has some nickel in it to be more anti-corrosive.
  • Jarhill has thickness of 0.95 mm and Concord is 1.0 mm.

I did a little research on the types of stainless. I don't think the 18/8 is needed for beer - wort is not that corrosive. I found some health blogs that actually advocated 18/0 over 18/8 because the 18/0 doesn't contain nickel - but could not find a "real" source of info as to whether this is good.

Any reason to purchase the Concord over the Jarhill set? Same price, but one pot versus 3. I figure I could sell the other two pots locally and come out close to even on the deal.

Those of you who have purchased these pots like them? And, weldless fittings work with them?

Appreciate any input.

Cheers! :mug:

~slcdawg
 
For the price I have loved them. Turns out my shallow grain bed/efficiency theory was bunk and due to a bad refractometer. Last batch got a 95%! I would definitely do it again. All of my fittings are weldless and hold up fine. I have not seen any corrosion on mine, and I've been using them since December for about 11 batches and all is well. The 17gal ones work great for 10gal batches and pretty good for 5gal. Boilermakers would be awesome to have, but I don't think they would improve my beer any. With that said I would recommend these over anything less than Blichmann.
 
Thanks for the feedback, Spellman. Looks like you have an electric setup with lots of fittings :D. I'm on propane so just have to make sure the bottom is supported. Pulling the trigger...

Spellman said:
For the price I have loved them. Boilermakers would be awesome to have, but I don't think they would improve my beer any. With that said I would recommend these over anything less than Blichmann.
Click to expand...
 
I just received my 45 gallon Concord, and its not too bad. I wouldn't say its flimsy at all but not really thick like my others. I don't regret buying it but I haven't brewed with it yet either

slcdawg said:
I've been looking at upgrading my kettle to a bigger size and am seriously considering pulling the trigger on this deal. Jarhill now has a set of 96/70/49 for $107 shipped. Prior to discovering this thread I was debating between the Concord stainless or a cheap but sturdy aluminum pot (debate for another thread). Comparing Jarhill to Concord:


  • Jarhill is 18/0 and Concord is 18/8 stainless, which means Concord has some nickel in it to be more anti-corrosive.
  • Jarhill has thickness of 0.95 mm and Concord is 1.0 mm.

I did a little research on the types of stainless. I don't think the 18/8 is needed for beer - wort is not that corrosive. I found some health blogs that actually advocated 18/0 over 18/8 because the 18/0 doesn't contain nickel - but could not find a "real" source of info as to whether this is good.

Any reason to purchase the Concord over the Jarhill set? Same price, but one pot versus 3. I figure I could sell the other two pots locally and come out close to even on the deal.

Those of you who have purchased these pots like them? And, weldless fittings work with them?

Appreciate any input.

Cheers! :mug:

~slcdawg
Click to expand...
 
SavoryChef said:
I just received my 45 gallon Concord, and its not too bad. I wouldn't say its flimsy at all but not really thick like my others. I don't regret buying it but I haven't brewed with it yet either
Click to expand...

45 gallon?! Damn, what are you brewing? 30 gallon batches?
 
20-25 gallons on occasion. No reason to brew the same house beers all the time, bigger is always better. I do have a few friends that can put some beer away and the occasional one barrel brew day with the brew club
 
Just got mine. They were not packaged very well - tons of scratches and dents. The large pot does have a rather large dent along the bottom. I don't care about the scratches but the large dent concerns me.

Aside from that the pots appear functional. Side construction seems sturdy enough. Bottom is flexy - definitely want to make sure its well supported.
 
Curious - did anyone else's pots arrived with deep scratches on the inside? I expected some minor scratching but two of my pots have scratches that appear pretty deep and black in color. Is this something BKF will clean up and I shouldn't worry about it? Seller says that is normal with their manufacturing process. Looks like a shipping (packaging issue) to me.

My large pot has a large dent at the base - around where the bottom is attached. I'm mostly concerned about that one as I was planning on selling the large pot.
 
i bought them and want to do dimpling and soldering but ive never done it before and dont want to F it up. I read the tutorial on here but im still scared to go out and try it.

Can you guys talk a little bit about your experience soldering this set of kettles?
 
I cant speak for for any other pots But I had no problem soldering the Jarhills and this was the first time for me.

FYI, I did not dimple any fittings mine were weld fittings and brewhardware.com electrical solder kits.

I did use Greenlee knockout tools for large holes. Drilling with step bits were no problem.

I even soldered some nuts right to the pot and it worked great!
After solder nut pic not cleaned yet..

2014-02-01 12.15.25.jpg
 
Mirilis said:
i bought them and want to do dimpling and soldering but ive never done it before and dont want to F it up. I read the tutorial on here but im still scared to go out and try it.

Can you guys talk a little bit about your experience soldering this set of kettles?
Click to expand...

I dimpled and soldered these pots with 1.5" tri clamp ferrules. Like you, I was a bit nervous about screwing it up so I first did a test dimple using a $1.69 stainless steel 0-gang wall plate I picked up at Home Depot.

I made the dimple tool from a PVC coupler, washers and bolt from HD and a 1" to 1.5" sanitary weld reducer I picked up off ebay.

IMG_1663.jpg


IMG_1691.jpg
 
I was also nervous about screwing my new pots up, but I just went for it and it turned out great. I like the idea of dimpling because the solder stays in a little "trough" as it gets liquidus. Make sure you go slow with your drilling and not over shoot and make too big of a hole.

Also, if you make the dimpling tool, make sure the parts that are bending the pot are stainless (or plastic like above, but i'm not sure how they'd take the pressure). If you use regular steel, it'll embed into the stainless and you'll probably get some rusting.
 
In case anyone who is interested in these hasn't seen this yet, the seller is now selling the pots individually too.
 
Got mine in the mail yesterday. The 96 qt had a big ding at the bottom, I'll send pics and see what they do for me...


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mine also had a ding in the bottom (almost looked like a screwdriver poked it or something.. Im thinking of selling my 96qt anyway) and probably my 70qt also

Im thinking i will keep my 49qt and make the 120V BIAB, and keep my 60qt concord pot for gas BIAB
 
I just got 2 70qts this week. They look exactly as advertised. They are cheap pots that are perfect for electric brewing. The metal is a bit thin but that is fine because it makes dimpling and soldering a little easier. One of mine had a small dent near the upper lip but it was easily pressed back out by hand. If I were using gas fired I might be a little concerned due to the thinness of the bottom (there is no cladding or anything). There is also no way I would _ever_ want to move one of these with any weight in them, they are just not rigid enough for that kind of work nor do I think they were designed to be used that way.

BTW, if you buy more than one he combines shipping. I got my 2 delivered to my door for $87.19, bought them on Saturday afternoon and they were delivered the following Tuesday (I'm in the same state as he is so saved some transit time).

Next week I hope to have the rest of my parts and start dimple soldering my fittings in. :rockin:
 
FYI to anyone looking to purchase these pots. I have not had a good experience trying to get a refund for a damaged pot. The large pot came a big dent where the bottom was welded to the sides. The seller agreed to accept that pot back for a partial refund. I followed his return instructions, got a Fedex tracking number. The tracking number shows it was received. The seller is now saying he never received it - that it was sent to the wrong address and is offering a reduced refund. Sounds fishy. Much aggravation - definitely not easy to work with.
 
Great pots for the cost. I have 2 set up with elements. They're a little wide but works good for low my basement ceiling. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1403226569.010755.jpg


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A friend of mine just tried setting up a new brew stand with these pots...first run was not good....handles started to rust...and a ****ing pin hole on one of them on the welded seam...not good

jarhill pin.jpg


rust jarhill.jpg
 
Yeah.

I built out a 25 gallon BK for a friend. Pinhole leak and rusty handle rivets. I silver soldered the pinhole closed and floated the rivets in a pool of silver solder to completely cover them. That kettle works fine, but seriously, I would choose a concord pot every time.

Cheers!

BSD
 
Wow, luckily I didn't have any holes with mine. That's troublesome to hear that a few people have gotten pots with holes in them. As for the handles rusting, I can report after 7 months of heavy use in a damp basement I have started to to see some rust spots on the handle rivets as well. Mine amount to a few specks of orange, not the cascading waterfall of rust that was pictured. I just gently rub with bar keepers friend and it wipes right off and is gone for 2-3 weeks and I do it again. Even with these imperfections I am still super happy with my purchase. I couldn't have gotten my whole eherms system approved by my better half if I had to spend another $1000+ on just the kettles. Schumed, in your case I think silver solder may be your friend.
 
Minbari said:
I like the way you installed the heating elements, where did you get those?
Click to expand...

Ebay.. I just greenly punched them. The pots have been fantastic for me with no rust or pin holes. There a great econo-pot.


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gl_az said:
Just got this false bottom (which is a thing of beauty by the way) and it fits the 70 perfectly
Click to expand...

That is a nice find! I used a domed bottom for a while from my 10g cooler and that worked pretty well. Earlier this spring midwest had one that was the same inner diameter of the pot on clearance and I picked it up for $29.99! When I got it it was a hair over 1/8 in larger than listed, doh! It did luckily fit over my dip tube port. I took my angle grinder around the out side of it. With the leg and handle position it was going to be tough to set up a jig to spin it and grind so I just kept moving it around and around, test, repeat. Then out of nowhere one side was slightly too small! Didn't think it would be too big of a problem because it didn't seem any larger of a gap than the holes, but it was sucking grain down the side. Had to get some silicone u channel to snug up that side...tack $15 on for that. All in all it works pretty well now, but kind of tricky to slide that u channel section on and get it in. Recirculation is way better now, not sure of efficiency changes. I got a mill about the same time and have been experimenting with the gap settings. Typically I am getting 85-90% brewhouse efficiency.
 
I ebrew in them often. No complaints at all. Easy to punch. They are easy to clean.


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