Do you need a 1 off Stainless part built for your system? Let's discuss it.

[jddevinn]

OK Jay,

Looking at the quality, complexity and cost of the other items here I have something for you to look at. A lot of people are using corny kegs and are attempting to limit oxygen uptake at all stages post fermentation. The most common way to "purge" a keg is to fill it with a StarSan solution and then push this solution through the outlet post. However, due to the physical design of the lid approximately 2 floz of air cannot be purged from inside of the pressure relief on the keg lid, as shown below. This 2 oz is WAY above the recommended O2 levels at packaging.

My thought is to drill out the cast pressure relief and replace it with a welded on 1/4" coupling. The coupling would have to be modified by, removing some of the threading, drilling the relief holes, adding a section of sheet/washer/ect to hold the spring compressed. Off some quick measurements we would be looking like something below.

Do you think this is economically feasible?

 

[jddevinn]

OK Jay,

Looking at the quality, complexity and cost of the other items here I have something for you too look at. A lot of people are using corny kegs and are attempting to limit oxygen uptake at all stages post fermentation. The most common way to "purge" a keg is to fill it with a StarSan solution and then push this solution through the outlet post. However, due to the physical design of the lid approximately 2 floz of air cannot be purged from inside of the pressure relief on the keg lid, as shown below. This 2 oz is WAY above the recommended O2 levels at packaging.

My thought is to drill out the cast pressure relief and replace it with a welded on 1/4" coupling. The coupling would have to be modified by, removing some of the threading, drilling the relief holes, adding a section of sheet/washer/ect to hold the spring compressed. Off some quick measurements we would be looking like something below.

Do you think this is economically feasible?

A second, probably much more practical, idea would be to try to fit a 1/16" coupling into the handle section to be capped during fermentation and just used as a vent hole.

 

[Carlscan26]

That's cool but I was thinking something more like a bazooka tube mesh. That's actually what I use today is a 1/2" silicone hose into a bazooka tube to catch the bits of grain that make it through my MLT false bottom. It's a hokey setup though and tends to fall apart - I can't get it to clamp onto the hose since this hose is so pliable and the bazooka tube opening can only close so much. Any ideas?

Hey Jay - any chance you've been able to look into this one further?

 

[Carlscan26]

A second, probably much more practical, idea would be to try to fit a 1/16" coupling into the handle section to be capped during fermentation and just used as a vent hole.

But then you couldn't use this to serve...

 

[Redlantern]

OK Jay,

Looking at the quality, complexity and cost of the other items here I have something for you to look at. A lot of people are using corny kegs and are attempting to limit oxygen uptake at all stages post fermentation. The most common way to "purge" a keg is to fill it with a StarSan solution and then push this solution through the outlet post. However, due to the physical design of the lid approximately 2 floz of air cannot be purged from inside of the pressure relief on the keg lid, as shown below. This 2 oz is WAY above the recommended O2 levels at packaging.

My thought is to drill out the cast pressure relief and replace it with a welded on 1/4" coupling. The coupling would have to be modified by, removing some of the threading, drilling the relief holes, adding a section of sheet/washer/ect to hold the spring compressed. Off some quick measurements we would be looking like something below.

Do you think this is economically feasible?

Add a hole in the lid, install essentially a small bulkhead fitting and a ball valve. These items are probably commercially available.

Leave the pressure relief alone

 

[BeardedBrews]

Do you think this is economically feasible?

You could just turn the lid upside down and fill that entire cavity with 2-part epoxy. Then you just have to fill the keg up to the rim, insert the lid, top off any liquid that you spilled, and pull the lid closed.

 

[FoCobrewguy]

Hey Jay,

Could you make a 2" version of one of these? Maybe have the pickup part slightly longer to reach further than an inch or so down. If you think you can do it can get the exact measurement I am looking for on the pick up tube part.

 

[jddevinn]

But then you couldn't use this to serve...

Why not? With an npt plug out would still be pressure rated as much as the kegs normally are.

Add a hole in the lid, install essentially a small bulkhead fitting and a ball valve. These items are probably commercially available.

Leave the pressure relief alone

I thought about this but don't want to have leaks (I use bulkhead fittings in my brite tanks for the CO2 stone and they are a mess to get sealed under pressure)

You could just turn the lid upside down and fill that entire cavity with 2-part epoxy. Then you just have to fill the keg up to the rim, insert the lid, top off any liquid that you spilled, and pull the lid closed.

Hmm hadn't thought about that. Gotta look at McMaster and see if I can find anything food grade

 

[Carlscan26]

Why not? With an npt plug out would still be pressure rated as much as the kegs normally are.

Didn't realize you were thinking of a threaded fitting - it's smooth in your concept drawing.

 

[brick_haus]

Hi all, I was passing through Redding the other day and stopped by to talk to Jay at Norcal Brewing Solutions about specific parts that I needed and couldn't find commercially. He took my order after some good consultation, made the parts (or had them made?) and they were delivered to my house before I got home a couple days later. This guy is legitimate, I highly recommend him for any needs that you have, custom or common. His shop is the most well stocked, clean and organized HBS that I have ever been to. I plan to continue to be his customer.
Thanks Jay!

 

[Jaybird]

Hi all, I was passing through Redding the other day and stopped by to talk to Jay at Norcal Brewing Solutions about specific parts that I needed and couldn't find commercially. He took my order after some good consultation, made the parts (or had them made?) and they were delivered to my house before I got home a couple days later. This guy is legitimate, I highly recommend him for any needs that you have, custom or common. His shop is the most well stocked, clean and organized HBS that I have ever been to. I plan to continue to be his customer.
Thanks Jay!

That is 1 of the nicest compliments I have been given! It was absolutely my pleasure John... Glad they arrived on time and in good shape...


Thank you very much for the kind words! I couldn't do it without my amazing team!

Cheers
Jay

 

[Konadog]

Jay, do you have, or can you add an extra bend in a 1/2 racking cane like this:

 

[Jaybird]

Jay, do you have, or can you add an extra bend in a 1/2 racking cane like this:

Yeah for sure....

Whatcha' need?

Cheers
Jay

 

[Konadog]

Well, I was going to use it for an over the side whirlpool arm. My pot is 18" tall. I was just going to use a compression fitting on the top to connect a Camlock A style to, and then just clamp it to my pot.

 

[mxstar21]

How much would it cost to make a mason jar lid to replace the collection ball on the Fast Fermenter? I have had 2 collection balls develop leaks.

 

[Jaybird]

Well, I was going to use it for an over the side whirlpool arm. My pot is 18" tall. I was just going to use a compression fitting on the top to connect a Camlock A style to, and then just clamp it to my pot.

We can do that.. Just get me the measurements you want.

How much would it cost to make a mason jar lid to replace the collection ball on the Fast Fermenter? I have had 2 collection balls develop leaks.

Sure. Whats the thread size?

Cheers
Jay

 

[mxstar21]

1" with the smaller mason jar lid

 

[Jaybird]

1" with the smaller mason jar lid

I can do the 1" But I can't do the small mouth jar lids. If you can use the wide mouth, I am all over it.

Cheers
Jay

 

[mxstar21]

How much would one be? Wide is fine..

 

[Jaybird]

How much would one be? Wide is fine..

Do you want that as a Male threaded fitting or Female threaded coupling? I am guessing Male would be best right?

Let me know..I'll get some prices together for you. Either way right at about $20-22 for the lid and the gasket...

Cheers
Jay

 

[Konadog]

We can do that.. Just get me the measurements you want.

Cheers
Jay

My pots 18 inches, so from the bottom bend to the top bend, make it 20 inches, and the bottom make it 4 inches, the top is like a racking cane.

Make sense?

 

[Jaybird]

My pots 18 inches, so from the bottom bend to the top bend, make it 20 inches, and the bottom make it 4 inches, the top is like a racking cane.

Make sense?

Yep for sure. PM inbound. I have a few more questions we can do via PM..

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

How much would one be? Wide is fine..

I went ahead and built these. It's a good idea and I think more people will want them as well. I am going to put these in my system @ $19.99 Its a 1" Close Nipple on the wide mouth jar lid WITH the gasket. It will be on my website in a few hours in the "Canning jar" Section

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Canning-Jar-Equipment.html

Cheers
Jay

 

[mxstar21]

Awesome! Very reasonable price. I actually think it will work better than the collection ball. Plus I have had two collection balls already develop leaks. I plan to order one or two these in a few weeks. Already burned through this months homebrew money...

 

[Jaybird]

Awesome! Very reasonable price. I actually think it will work better than the collection ball. Plus I have had two collection balls already develop leaks. I plan to order one or two these in a few weeks. Already burned through this months homebrew money...

You got it! I think its a killer idea for sure! I love seeing these ideas come full circle. I haven't been able to get em all done but we are chewing threw most of them for you guys!

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Fer are a couple picts of the Fast Ferment canning jar option to replace that "collection jar". Good idea @MXstar21


This 1 is our prototype...


Cheers
Jay

 

[mxstar21]

Perfect!!!! You nailed it, exactly what I need. It will work so much better than the collection ball. This thread has been awesome, good products for us, and I am sure you are benefiting! Great stuff!!!!

 

[Jaybird]

Perfect!!!! You nailed it, exactly what I need. It will work so much better than the collection ball. This thread has been awesome, good products for us, and I am sure you are benefiting! Great stuff!!!!

Thanks brotha' Yeah we are SUPER SUPER busy right now building a BOATLOAD of stuff for you guys! Our laser is going gangbusters...

I LOVE IT!

Cheers
Jay

 

[Konadog]

Jay, just wanted to thank you for the whirlpool arm you made me, it's exactly what I was looking for, perfect!

 

[krispy71]

Hey Jay

I was wondering if you work in aluminum? I'm looking for an aluminum block that is radiused on one side to fit an 8.5" diameter pin lock corny. The other side would be flat to fit a cpu water block or two or three connected to a chill water loop.

Water block is approx 1.5" square and need another 1" on either side for mounting bracket, so 3.5" square for a single water block. Thickness would only have to be enough to maintain rigidity.

Alternate idea, how about a corny lid with coiled stainless heat exchanger? That might be more universal to all corny keg formats while achieving the same goal.

Tony

 

[Jaybird]

Hey Jay

I was wondering if you work in aluminum? I'm looking for an aluminum block that is radiused on one side to fit an 8.5" diameter pin lock corny. The other side would be flat to fit a cpu water block or two or three connected to a chill water loop.

Water block is approx 1.5" square and need another 1" on either side for mounting bracket, so 3.5" square for a single water block. Thickness would only have to be enough to maintain rigidity.

Alternate idea, how about a corny lid with coiled stainless heat exchanger? That might be more universal to all corny keg formats while achieving the same goal.

Tony

Tony
I actually don't play with aluminum at all other than Sheering, Plasma and rolling. I cant weld aluminum in my shop at all.

Cheers
Jay

 

[krispy71]

Hey Jay

I figured it was a shot in the dark.

Not sure if you saw the other idea for a stainless heat exchanger coil in a corny lid?I'm actually liking that idea more than a block.

Tony

 

[Jaybird]

Hey Jay

I figured it was a shot in the dark.

Not sure if you saw the other idea for a stainless heat exchanger coil in a corny lid?I'm actually liking that idea more than a block.

Tony

I didn't see it Tony whats the Post #? I'll check it out..

Cheers
Jay

 

[MidAtlanticBrew]

I too would be interested in a Corny lids with a SS coil and barb fittings. Would allow me to leverage my fermentation cooling system for corny serving vessels. Basically a 5 gallon version of the SS Brewtech brite tank.

 

[MidAtlanticBrew]

I'm also interested in the mason jar solution built for Dolomieu. It's basically an airgap used in plumbing, i.e. dishwasher to sink drain, perfect to prevent blow-off back-up when quenching the fermenter. I only need the double barbed version, I'd like QTY of two with barbs to fit 1/2 silicone tubing, and one inside the jar barb 1.5 inches longer then other. Lid to be a wide mouth to fit ball jar. You should market these. This is a good solution for everyone with a brewbucket and cooling coils who crash cools.

 

[Jaybird]

I'm also interested in the mason jar solution built for Dolomieu. It's basically an airgap used in plumbing, i.e. dishwasher to sink drain, perfect to prevent blow-off back-up when quenching the fermenter. I only need the double barbed version, I'd like QTY of two with barbs to fit 1/2 silicone tubing, and one inside the jar barb 1.5 inches longer then other. Lid to be a wide mouth to fit ball jar. You should market these. This is a good solution for everyone with a brewbucket and cooling coils who crash cools.

Are you talking about the one with 2 nipples? Happy to help!

PM me..

Cheers
Jay

 

[krispy71]

Right on Midatlantic, that's exactly what I'm talking about. http://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/brite-tanks/products/chiller-coil-jacket-10-gal-brite-tank

 

[RTL]

My jaybird accessories. Going to have to find a way to reduce the amount of tubing needed between jars. It still works as is. Hope to have it full in the near future.

Have you fermented with this yet? I was thinking of something along these lines to keep sanitizer or yeast from being pulled back into the fermenter. But I was thinking of having a spunding valve and ball lock connector on the triclover, and adding a thermowell. Then you set the regulator to about 1-2 PSI and the spunding valve just barely above that. Then when you cold crash the pressure is replaced from the CO2 tank and there is no suckback at all.

Jay, could you make this? 2" triclover with a 1/4" tee for the spunding valve and this:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npttokegpost.htm
1/4" tee: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...s2&tag=becausebeer-20&linkId=67ADUDDXYXLI63MO

then add a thermowell?

 

[Jaybird]

Jay, just wanted to thank you for the whirlpool arm you made me, it's exactly what I was looking for, perfect!

NICE man! My pleasure! Glad it all worked out.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Have you fermented with this yet? I was thinking of something along these lines to keep sanitizer or yeast from being pulled back into the fermenter. But I was thinking of having a spunding valve and ball lock connector on the triclover, and adding a thermowell. Then you set the regulator to about 1-2 PSI and the spunding valve just barely above that. Then when you cold crash the pressure is replaced from the CO2 tank and there is no suckback at all.

Jay, could you make this? 2" triclover with a 1/4" tee for the spunding valve and this:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npttokegpost.htm
1/4" tee: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...s2&tag=becausebeer-20&linkId=67ADUDDXYXLI63MO

then add a thermowell?

I don't see any reason why not. I have all that in stock except the Tee but I think I can get that in town here tomorrow. Let me check it out for you.

I'm going to shoot you a PM for tracking the part and discussion.

Cheers
Jay