HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
That's the exact thread that sent me down my path, some great information in there. Thanks for the work.
Countertop Brutus 20
- Thread starter jkarp
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That's the exact thread that sent me down my path, some great information in there. Thanks for the work.
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
That would only be true if I allowed the batch size to fall. If I really want a 3.5 gal batch, moving to a 90 (or even 120) minute boil means my pre-boil volume must go up. That does dilute the points/gal and reduce the subsequent points lost but it's not huge. A two hour boil on 13 lbs would give me 1.094 and 71%
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
Oh certainly, I was just thinking out loud that if you wanted to push the limit and get a beer around 1.100 you could boil longer and end up with a batch smaller than 3.5 gal.
Mine is by no means self priming. Once established, I can maintain suction throughout the brew by being careful about which order I open/close valves in.
If lost, you can get it going by purging air at the pump intake connection. You only spill and ounce or so.
If lost, you can get it going by purging air at the pump intake connection. You only spill and ounce or so.
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
If the kettle is reasonably full (as it would be when heating to strike temp) I've never had the pump fail to prime on its own. Once the system is primed, it stays primed for the entire brewing session as the plumbing doesn't change.
When cleaning with a relatively small amount of hot water and oxyclean, I have to suck on the exit hose momentarily to get the pump going.
Had a quick question for anyone who might know the answer. I am putting together the control panel for my own countertop brutus and when I wired everything up and tested it tonight it seemed the kettle outlet (I'm using the same outlets as the original) did not have much juice from it. I plugged a light into the pump outlet and it was normal but when plugged into the kettle outlet it is much more dim. I wired it the same as in the descriptions you posted jkarp and even used the jumpers the same I thought. Does it matter where the wires coming out of the SSR go into the kettle plug? Any help or suggestions are appreciated!
Sockmonkey
Well-Known Member
ddknight, the PID was likely not running at 100% which is why the light looked dim. This is as expected as that's how it regulates the element.
Sockmonkey
Well-Known Member
jkarp and HarkinBanks: thanks for the ideas and help. My version of this system will be making its inaugural brew tomorrow!
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
SSRs have no resistance when on so it shouldn't be dim. If the PID is driving the SSR with a lamp plugged into the kettle outlet, the lamp should be going on/off in sync with the output light on the PID.
ddknight - standard incandescent lamp, right? I could see where a florescent wouldn't be happy with being rapidly turned on/off. If the lamp isn't matching the PID output light, something's wrong in the wiring. I'd start with double-checking the polarity on the SSR signal lines.
Sockmonkey
Well-Known Member
I assumed the on-off cycle of the PID would make an incandescent seem dim, but I haven't actually tried it. Definitely make sure the PID is set to 100% and check out the wiring.
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
I've PMed this to a couple people but there's no point not dropping it here. Simple worksheet I use for calculating Countertop Brutus 20 water volumes and predicted efficiency.
View attachment cb20batchcalc.zip
View attachment cb20batchcalc.zip
DrinknBuddy
Active Member
the xls is great!
I just did a wheat and missed my OG and ended up with 2.6gal of wort in the fermenter. Didn't have any DME on hand.
I'm still trying to set up beersmith with my equipment and this gives me a better idea of where to start.
I just did a wheat and missed my OG and ended up with 2.6gal of wort in the fermenter. Didn't have any DME on hand.
I'm still trying to set up beersmith with my equipment and this gives me a better idea of where to start.
Thanks for the help with the electrical question. Once I had the PID going the right way and everything all power as would be expected. I'm ready to take her for a test drive in the near future! Thanks again for the great project. Well Done!!
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
JK, can you give a little explanation of your efficiency calcs for me? They aren't squaring up with the ones I use.
I typically calculate my efficiency into the kettle (using Bakins and Kai formulas) and then use Tastybrew to give me my target OG based on the efficiency, type of grain used, pre-boil and post-boil volumes for my system.
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
Sure...
Assuming the following values:
Avg ppg 36.000 points
Batch size 3.500 gal
Evaporation 0.750 gal/hr
Absorption 0.150 gal/lb
Deadloss 0.125 gal
Boil time 1.000 hrs
Grist 6 lbs
Total gravity points = 6 * 36 = 216
Total sys vol = 3.5 + (.75 * 1) + (.15 * 6) + .125 = 5.28
Points/gal = 216 / 5.28 = 40.91
Points lost = 40.91 * (.15 * 6 + .125) = 41.93
Est. OG = ((216 - 41.93) / 3.5) / 1000 + 1 = 1.050
Max. eff = (216 - 41.93) / 216 = 80.6%
kjones
Well-Known Member
can you explain to me how the the kettle switch wires through the ssr, i looked at page six but i can't see the bottom of that switch, i have the same one as you though
edit: i figured it out
edit: i figured it out
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
kjones
Well-Known Member
This pic was later in the thread:
thanks, but i am a little confused with the way you did it, on the pump outlet/switch i didn't break the tab or add a jumper i just left it the way it was and used the switch to power on and off that outlet on the pump side, i then jumped off the same terminal (not the black screws on the pump switch but where hot comes in the box) and used it to also run power to the the kettle switch. then i ran each of the black screws on the kettle switch of to one of the outputs on the ssr and i did break the tab on the kettle outlet/switch that maybe hard to understand its hard for me to type it anyway, I just really dont understand what you did i sat there with my multimeter trying but i couldnt hopefully what i did will work.
kjones
Well-Known Member
oh, and my switches look just like yours so i am assuming they are same, so all the not breakin the tab does is allow you to turn the outlet on or off with the switch but it looks to me the way you got your pump outlet/switch jumpered the outlet would be hot all the time? or does your hot coming in teh box go to one of the black screws?
kjones
Well-Known Member
ok i think i figured it out but did you break the tabs on both of the switches?
jppostKW
Well-Known Member
27 page read during the bronco game=epic! i am going to start piecing this together. I already have the pot and 5 gallon MLT couple questions could you integrate a whirlpool into this? If so how would you go about it.
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
Y'all who didn't have to break the tabs off on the switches must have a different part. On the unit I used, if you didn't break the tab, the outlet was always hot. The instruction sheet gave step by step instructions for coupling the switch to the outlet by breaking the tab and using a jumper. By default the switch and outlet are completely separate devices.
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
Poor Broncos...
Anyway, I was going to suggest Loc-Line but it looks like it's got a 170 deg limit. I'd probably use a short piece of flex copper tubing to do similar, directing the return flow in the kettle into a circle.
I do wonder how well a whirlpool works on electric systems works as the heater element will be disturbing the flow. I'm sure someone with experience will chime in.
kjones
Well-Known Member
i am thinking about doin what some have talked about and using the one element for mashing but adding a second element for just the boil and steepin up to a bigger pot so i can still do 5 gallon batches since all my kegs are five gallons and all. Has anyone done this with two of the elements that the build calls for? I was thinking of using my 10 gallon megapot and my rectangle picnic cooler, any thoughts? thanks
CodeRage
Death by Magumba!
No issues at all on mine, get a nice neat little pile right in the middle of the keggle.
Edit: kjones, not exactly sure on what you are asking but I have a 1250W RIMS heater on the MLT and a 4500 ULWD element in the BK.
Sockmonkey
Well-Known Member
I did my copy of this build with two elements and I do 5 gallon batches. Works perfectly.
Let me know if you have any questions.
kjones
Well-Known Member
i was trying to say like make the system just as jkarp suggests but instead of using a 6 gallon pot and the one 2000w element, using a ten gallon mega pot and adding a second 2000w element that is just wired to a plug seperate from the temp control system and using it just when i boil. And also stepping up to a big rectangle picnic cooler (which i already own) to accomodate the larger amount of grain needed for the 5 gallon batch size instead of the 3.5 the original system uses.
jppostKW
Well-Known Member
They where winning and scored 17 unanswered when i posted
Im not super worried about trub but when i build my permanent system it would be a nice feature.
kjones
Well-Known Member
do you have to use seperate house circuits?
and another thought that comes to mind would be to use a propane burner when boiling but i guess you would just have to make sure that you didnt melt the power cord to the heating element?
Sockmonkey
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I use two separate 120v/20A circuits in my garage.
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
I built mine with 2 elements and it works great. I was limited by 120 service though. If you have 240 service, just use a bigger element in the BK. I kept everything GFCI and on separate circuits for my 2 elements.
kjones
Well-Known Member
anyone installed the element in ss instead of the aluminum? what did you use to make the hole?
Boerderij_Kabouter
Well-Known Member
Hole saw finished with a step bit. Just the hole saw would be fine, just clean up the edges. A punch set would be best but more expensive.
HarkinBanks
Well-Known Member
Titanium step drill bit, some Pam spray, and my drill.
kjones
Well-Known Member
i think i will just use this electric/ temp control set-up for my hlt, and just keep on batch sparging as i haven't bought the pump or cfc yet. They are so expensive, prob just upgrade later. Now i gotta think of what to do with that extra outlet.
BoilerInSoCal
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what size hole have you guys created for your 2000W elements? I've seen somewhere that a 1.25" hole saw is about right, but since I cannot recall where I read that, I would like some affirmation. Thanks!
I had a question if someone can help me out. I have now completed the build and am looking forward to using the system. I haven't been able to figure out how to really work the PID controls. I have a LOVE controller on my other system that I can work fine but this I don't quite understand. Any help or guidance on this would be appreciated! Thanks.
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jkarp
Well-Known Member
Which model did you get?
I used the one noted in this build. It's the SYL 2362 from Auberins.
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