Converting to Sanke S-type system

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hasenman

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Hi all,

I would like to ask for opinions on what I'd need to go fully Sanke with my kegging. I am currently set up for pin-lock cornies. But, am changing to a sanke lineup.

A tentative list I have of necessities:

* 4-6 S-type Sankes
* 2 S-type couplers
* appropriate hoses (any size suggestions?)
* homemade keg cleaner (any cheap and easy DIY suggestions?)

Any suggestions or links are appreciated!
 
All you need are the kegs and the couplers.For cleaning I just rinse them real good with straight water and do an oxiclean soak every 5 kegs or so.THey hold pressere so no oxygen no issue with infections in keg.I've opened a keg sitting at room temp for 2 months and the beer still smells fresh
 
Thanks guys,

Rotten, just want to get this in detail, so you keep posts on when washing (?), use regular water, sanitize (?), re-fill kegs (with modified attachments on coupler); full oxi-clean every 5 fills. I've seen/read people doing the washing/sanitizing without taking posts off, but they say you need a very strong pump (which I currently don't have).

Brewenstein, I'm in China :) :confused: haha...
 
Yes, I know. Have googled a few times, but not getting very many good links for some reason. I know the info is out there, but getting to it has not been easy for some reason. So, I decided to ask on here for some good links/suggestions. Thanks..
 
Well, the seller of the S sankeys says they sell an opener for them. Seems similar to this..

https://www.candirect.eu/Ein-Ausschraubadapter-fuer-Korbfitting-ohne-Knarre

I think I need to use S type because that's the predominant keg style in China. If I start with D type, I might be entering a world of pain.

Has anyone ever used a tool similar to the one in the link above? Seems too simple to be able to release that safety catch..
 
For anyone wondering about S sankeys in the future, I just found out that the tool linked in the previous post works well to release the safety catch apparently (info from a German brewmaster in my province).

He fashioned a simple double-notched wrench from a SS pipe of valve width, and then he used an old screwdriver as the wrench handle. So, if you look at the tool I linked, just follow a similar notching pattern and use the screwdriver at a perpendicular to the SS pipe.

Of course, release pressure before attempting anything (the repeating wise words from all the threads I've read).

Much simpler it seems than the youtube videos with 3 screwdrivers and wrench. Will see! haha..wish me luck.

If there's anything else anyone can possibly suggest I look into or need, please let me know! It's tough to get credible info in bumfunk, China. Cheers!
 
To open a sanke all you need is a screwdriver.Relieve the pressure buy pushing down on the ball.Stick the screwdriver in the notch and pop out the retaining ring,takes about 2 seconds,Not worth buying a tool
 
The easiest thing to do is get a coupler that you modify to work with whatever keg type you have (D, S) and then remove the check valves and install shutoff valves. Coloradboybrewing has a very good and detailed DIY here: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDOFsKB6xnk[/ame]

You can also purchase a already made type D cleaning and filling coupler from SABCO for about $110. It is expensive but it is a true 1/2 in and out and works great for cleaning and filling kegs.

My procedure is:
1. Attach cleaning coupler, invert keg and drain old beer out of the gas port.
2. Rinse with water in liquid side for initial clean. Drain out gas side.
3. Connect to liquid side a Mark II keg washer and clean with PBW for 10 minutes.
4. Rinse with water.
5. Run Starsan through for a minute or two.
6. Set right side up and fill with city water until completely full.
7. Invert and slowly open gas side to drain water will purging with CO2 in liquid side. Once empty close valves and ready for use.

Mark
 
To open a sanke all you need is a screwdriver.Relieve the pressure buy pushing down on the ball.Stick the screwdriver in the notch and pop out the retaining ring,takes about 2 seconds,Not worth buying a tool

You're not familiar with the type he's talking about. It takes a tool like the one discussed in the linked thread.

I bought a set of S type sankes and they came with a unthreading tool as well as a spear safety catch remover. It is very similar, except I put a dime in the valve to thread the bolt onto, as it mars up the keg if you don't.

I got tired of dealing with my sankes so im switching to a set of ball locks for ease of finding replacement/repair parts. Mine had a leak or two and I can't find o rings to fix them, plus nobody uses these, so it's tougher to share or take to a friend's, get a quick spare part, etc.

Lots of things will be difficult in china I think...

As far as the read more post, it's true. You aren't understanding the different types of kegs. There's plenty of info out there, do a very small amount of searching and you will find it.
 
All you need are the kegs and the couplers.For cleaning I just rinse them real good with straight water and do an oxiclean soak every 5 kegs or so.THey hold pressere so no oxygen no issue with infections in keg.I've opened a keg sitting at room temp for 2 months and the beer still smells fresh


JONNYROTTEN, that sounds too good to be true. No oxygen means no aerobic bacteria, but what about anerobic? What about other types of spoilage?
 
hasenman... We have a very large WeChat group in China. I have a Homebrew Store in Shanghai. We are all here to help. There is a lot of info in China and lots of help.
Contact me and I can get you into the WeChat group.
m.sherretz at yahoo dot com
 
I just took all the pieces/parts to home Depot. I found a helpful sales guy in plumbing.I told him I wanted to be able to switch back and forth between them. He drew it all out for me and put all the parts in my basket. It turned out he had given me 1 wrong piece. I had it mostly together, but he just said - come back in 2 hours. I did and he had put it all together for me and tested it for leaks. ( A feminine smile helps). 😃
 
The easiest thing to do is get a coupler that you modify to work with whatever keg type you have (D, S) and then remove the check valves and install shutoff valves. Coloradboybrewing has a very good and detailed DIY here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDOFsKB6xnk

You can also purchase a already made type D cleaning and filling coupler from SABCO for about $110. It is expensive but it is a true 1/2 in and out and works great for cleaning and filling kegs.

My procedure is:
1. Attach cleaning coupler, invert keg and drain old beer out of the gas port.
2. Rinse with water in liquid side for initial clean. Drain out gas side.
3. Connect to liquid side a Mark II keg washer and clean with PBW for 10 minutes.
4. Rinse with water.
5. Run Starsan through for a minute or two.
6. Set right side up and fill with city water until completely full.
7. Invert and slowly open gas side to drain water will purging with CO2 in liquid side. Once empty close valves and ready for use.

Mark

I think I'd switch steps 5 and 6.
 
JONNYROTTEN, that sounds too good to be true. No oxygen means no aerobic bacteria, but what about anerobic? What about other types of spoilage?
I couldn't tell ya about the different bacteria you listed.What I do know is in 2 years I haven't had a single issue with spoilage.My thought process is if the last beer out of the tap tastes as good as the first theres no issues in the keg.A quick rinse and a good sniff for good measure and I'm onto filling the keg.
 
I use a slotted screwdriver and $5 edge clamp to pull the check valve/stem on my Sanke D's. No problems to date. As for cleaning I also don't do much more than PBW/Oxy soak - rinse - sanitize between batches. Supper easy and no extra gear/converter to purchase. If you feel concerned about cleaning a Sanke, don't bother switching. Stick with your pin-lock Cornies.
 
When purchasing new Sankey kegs is there anything that needs to be done to them before first use? Do they need a TSP cleaning or need to be passivated? Or can you just sanitize and begin using?
 
Undamaged stainless steel and aluminium kegs do not normally require passivation. For kegs fresh from the manufacturer: Rinse, sanitize, and use. Washing first won't hurt, but there shouldn't be any calcium scale on a new keg, so it's probably not necessary. If in doubt, follow the manufacturer's instructions.
 
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