Considering getting into kegging

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Lunkerking

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So I am considering making the natural progression that a lot of home brewers make from bottling to kegging.

I like to share and bring beer on trips. Can I simply fill growlers that I have from various breweries to bring and share from my tap? I know there are various bottling guns you can get but are they necessary ?

I would like to have 2 kegs in a fridge. Do you recommend 2 taps ? Any place you would recommend buying? New or used? Am I looking at spending $600 or so? Thanks for any advice.
 
Yes, you can fill growlers. If filling from a tap, you can get a growler filler attachment that will fill the growler from the bottom, minimizing foam. Cap on foam, keep cold, and you should be good for days.

Two kegs in a fridge? If that was all I could get in there, I'd sure have two taps.

**************

Sounds like you're starting from scratch, w/ a budget of $600. I don't know if you are set on a refrigerator as your form factor, but if not, consider a small freezer converted into a "keezer." Tons of threads here on how to make one, it's not that hard. Mine has a removable collar that, if I were to do it again, I'd do it exactly the same way.

A keezer will allow you to have more kegs in there, which will allow for a pipeline, as well as a place to cold condition. At a $600 budget, you can get a small freezer for under $200, add an Inkbird controller for $40. Then you can add 2 good faucets like Perlick 650SS flow-control for about...$85 per faucet including shanks and tailpieces. That's top of the line stuff. So now you're up to maybe $400. Add a CO2 cylinder for $70, a regulator for $50, and you're under $600 with a very nice setup.

You'll have incidental expenses to create a collar on the keezer, maybe $30 or so, and you'd have a keezer w/ two faucets, expandable as you can afford, and room for 5-7 kegs inside depending on your needs and wants.

As soon as you start kegging, you *will* want more capacity. Heck, I can get 6 kegs in my small keezer and I wish I had room for a couple more. But a small 7 cubic foot freezer is a great place to start.

Here's a pic of mine. I painted it with chalkboard paint partly to cover up dings and dents in what was a used freezer. It shows 3 taps here (all Perlick 650SS flow control), I've since added a 4th tap, and actually have a 5th one waiting for installation. The nice thing with this is you can expand it as you have need and funding to do it.

Mine's fairly basic, there are some real works of art out there, but it does one thing extremely well: it serves me my homebrew on tap, whenever I want it. :)

keezerinplace.jpg

The newer version; you can see one advantage of painting it:


k1.jpg
 
There's a lot of info on this here already, so trust your search skills...
Look up: no stinking beer gun

You mean $600 to buy a kegerator or build your own?

I think 2 taps is the minimum, and a good start. 4-6 taps is really nice if you like having different beers available at any time. So size accordingly, leaving room to expand after the first 2 taps.

You need:
  • 2 or more kegs - Each: $40-50 used; $90-120 new
  • CO2 tank - $50-120 depending on size and source (try Craigslist)
  • Regulator - $45-90
  • Suitable fridge or freezer - $25-250 (Craigslist or new)
  • Temp controller - $20-30 (e.g., Inkbird)
  • 2 Faucets with shanks - $40-130 depending on type and material. Chrome plated brass is cheaper, SS and forward seal is best also more $$. Using a flow control faucet ($$) you can keep your lines shorter.
  • Tubing and connectors - $50-100
  • Some handiness and basic tools

Total:
$300-400 minimum, some used stuff off CL, classifieds, etc.
$500-600 with some sensible upgrades (better faucets, more kegs, larger or newer fridge/freezer)
 
Last edited:
Yes, you can fill growlers. If filling from a tap, you can get a growler filler attachment that will fill the growler from the bottom, minimizing foam. Cap on foam, keep cold, and you should be good for days.

Two kegs in a fridge? If that was all I could get in there, I'd sure have two taps.

**************

Sounds like you're starting from scratch, w/ a budget of $600. I don't know if you are set on a refrigerator as your form factor, but if not, consider a small freezer converted into a "keezer." Tons of threads here on how to make one, it's not that hard. Mine has a removable collar that, if I were to do it again, I'd do it exactly the same way.

A keezer will allow you to have more kegs in there, which will allow for a pipeline, as well as a place to cold condition. At a $600 budget, you can get a small freezer for under $200, add an Inkbird controller for $40. Then you can add 2 good faucets like Perlick 650SS flow-control for about...$85 per faucet including shanks and tailpieces. That's top of the line stuff. So now you're up to maybe $400. Add a CO2 cylinder for $70, a regulator for $50, and you're under $600 with a very nice setup.

You'll have incidental expenses to create a collar on the keezer, maybe $30 or so, and you'd have a keezer w/ two faucets, expandable as you can afford, and room for 5-7 kegs inside depending on your needs and wants.

As soon as you start kegging, you *will* want more capacity. Heck, I can get 6 kegs in my small keezer and I wish I had room for a couple more. But a small 7 cubic foot freezer is a great place to start.

Here's a pic of mine. I painted it with chalkboard paint partly to cover up dings and dents in what was a used freezer. It shows 3 taps here (all Perlick 650SS flow control), I've since added a 4th tap, and actually have a 5th one waiting for installation. The nice thing with this is you can expand it as you have need and funding to do it.

Mine's fairly basic, there are some real works of art out there, but it does one thing extremely well: it serves me my homebrew on tap, whenever I want it. :)

View attachment 389982

The newer version; you can see one advantage of painting it:


View attachment 389983


Thanks so much for the advice ! Sharp looking keezer, Love the chalkboard.

Any keezer thread here you would especially recommend?
 
There is also the article where if you do want some stuff bottled, you dose each individual bottle with pure maple syrup ~2ml each per 12oz bottle. I just tried it so I cant report on how it worked for me juuuust yet. But it was cool as I literally filled the bottles straight from my ss brew bucket. Added syrup. capped. beyond easy and also 0 mess for me. Now just waiting to try the results.

kegging is beyond fun, but it can be a challenge. Being a little paranoid if you have a leak isnt a bad idea. I just had a pressure relief valve go bad on me and leak the majority of my co2 tank. Not the end of the world but I did catch it before it emptied the whole thing.

my build thread.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=593107

d1700 3/16" bev line 20'
h950 hose clamps x6
Ball lock bev out x2
d1221 perlick 650ss x2
4x 4" shanks
KEG560 Gas Tubing Assembly
inkbird itc-308 temp controller
d1265 faucet wrench
d1221 perlick 650ss x2
D1810 Gas Manifold - 4 Way
another 20ft of bev line
2x bev 3x gas disconnects balllock
20' gas line
2 more ball lock kegs


2x6x12 red cedar lumber (102862)
Watco danish oil red mahogony finish
black appliance epoxy spray 2-3x
clear? silicone sealer

liquid nails
rmax plus-3 .5"x4ftx8ft
freezer
Disconnects
Total:

15.8
5.34
10.98
99.98
81
8.99
20
3.49
99.98
39.25
15.8
27.45
16.8
165


16.78
7.98
7.52
3.97

6.97
11.24
127
55
846.32

The kegging hardware will be 90% of the cost, but if you buy good equipment itll last for forever.
 
Thanks so much for the advice ! Sharp looking keezer, Love the chalkboard.

Any keezer thread here you would especially recommend?

And not that this is particularly the best one--though I tend to think a lot of the author :)--but this may start you out with helping specify some of the right questions:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/want-build-keezer.html

Also, I'll toss this out there as it's uncommon but if I were to do it again, I'd do it exactly the same way: My collar is not glued to the base freezer; it sits on foam tape used to cushion a pickup truck capper on the truck bed sides. The collar can be removed and easily moved apart from the freezer body itself.

Here's a post where I show that; the collar and lid is heavy enough it doesn't go anywhere, but it can be lifted off if needed:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7776624&postcount=5
 
Thanks for all the replies. What are some good sources to get faucet kits, kegs and parts?
 
Northern Brewer has a nice video for a simple Keezer build. It's what I did, with the addition of lining the wood frame portion with some of that insulating styrofoam with the silver foil liner.

Here's the Northern Brewer vid: https://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/how-to-build-a-keezer-or-freezer-kegerator/

As for faucets, I strongly recommend spending a little extra for a Perlick (or similar) forward-sealing faucet. I originally purchased the cheap rear sealers and they constantly seized shut due to sticky beer residue. I replaced them with the Perlicks and the original ones are sitting in a drawer somewhere. The chrome Perlicks aren't a ton more than the cheapos.

Finally, do your homework on the type and length of beverage tube. Our local HBS gave me a setup with woefully inadequate tubes. All I got was foam until I did some research and replaced them with the proper tubes.
 
I'll just add that if I could have a do over I'd go with a fridge instead of a freezer.
 
If you build a keezer, make sure to purchase one bigger than you think you'll need. This way you'll have room to upgrade... And you'll want to upgrade.

My first kegerator was made from an old fridge I found on Craigslist, and had three taps. Nearly immediately I realized I could squeeze four kegs inside, and upgraded to four taps. Fast forward a few years, and I now have a completely new set up using a freezer instead of a fridge, and with eight taps. If you love having a variety of beers on tap, as I do, having room to upgrade is a must. YMMV, but I'm much happier with a freezer instead of a fridge.

And buy forward sealing taps from Perlick or Intertap from the start. Unless you use every tap every night, they'll stick shut, and that's no fun, especially on a sugary beer like a stout. Almost everyone upgrades to these eventually. It's much cheaper to just buy them at the beginning.
 
Northern Brewer has a nice video for a simple Keezer build. It's what I did, with the addition of lining the wood frame portion with some of that insulating styrofoam with the silver foil liner.

Here's the Northern Brewer vid: https://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/how-to-build-a-keezer-or-freezer-kegerator/

As for faucets, I strongly recommend spending a little extra for a Perlick (or similar) forward-sealing faucet. I originally purchased the cheap rear sealers and they constantly seized shut due to sticky beer residue. I replaced them with the Perlicks and the original ones are sitting in a drawer somewhere. The chrome Perlicks aren't a ton more than the cheapos.

Finally, do your homework on the type and length of beverage tube. Our local HBS gave me a setup with woefully inadequate tubes. All I got was foam until I did some research and replaced them with the proper tubes.


Thanks! How did you attach the insulating styrofoam to the wood?
 
Thanks! How did you attach the insulating styrofoam to the wood?

Most of mine is a friction fit, with a few nails holding the foam tight to the wood. There's a type of nail you can buy w/ a 1" plastic washer under the head that keeps the nail tight to the insulation.

You can make something similar yourself with any kind of stiff plastic 1/16 to 1/8" thick, cut to about 1" (square or circle) and poke the nail through the center. You might want to drill those holes.

Or, you could do the same with very thin screws.

You can't see the screws in the pics below. The two end pieces are held in place by the pieces on the long sides, and anywhere there's a gap it's held in place w/ those plastic-capped nails.

k3.jpg
 
I'll just add that if I could have a do over I'd go with a fridge instead of a freezer.

I started with a fridge (top freezer curbside giveaway) and found it difficult to 1) control the temp in the fridge compartment and 2) access the tops of my pin locks to swap kegs, clean lines, etc. (ball locks may be a bit more manageable). Just last week, I evicted my fermenter into a 5 cf freezer and now have the 7 cf former ferm chamber all collared up and online as my keezer.

Todd
 
Finally, do your homework on the type and length of beverage tube. Our local HBS gave me a setup with woefully inadequate tubes. All I got was foam until I did some research and replaced them with the proper tubes.

I struggled until I stumbled on to this site. I think most bad pours are due to (in no particular order) over carbed keg, liquid line too short, temp stratification (beer cold/lines and shank-faucet warm). Or a combo of any of those.

Todd
 
Great I think I will get a fan too...do most of you recommend that?

I have one in mine. It helps not only w/ keeping down condensation but also ensures an even temperature throughout the keezer.

Some people use small computer fans. I have a USB fan in mine, cost about $8 IIRC. On the amazon link below, mine is like the first one listed (got it on sale at Menards). You could just as easily use the cheaper ones--I'm not sure if you have to supply your own USB charger for it, but if you're like me, you have several lying around.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...sk&sprefix=usb+fan,aps,141&crid=11UY4QDF4UPYG
 
You and your wife may also dig the fact that if you use an ordinary refrigerator as your kegerator you can also use it to store food, wine, canned or bottled beer, and even have some extra freezer space. I keep mine in the garage and it ended up being very useful for stuff other than beer.
 
The one thing I wish someone had explained to me when I did my keezer;

Order the correct length shanks to juuuust get through the wall and accept the nut. Get the tailpieces that turn 90 degrees. Plan carefully to place your taps between kegs. All this to ensure you can take out any keg without taking them all out. I didn't do that planning. I have a 5cf freezer with a 2x6 collar, 3 kegs, 2 taps and standard shanks and tailpieces. It sticks Waaaay out and as a result I have to disconnect and remove all the hoses to get the 2 lower kegs out without risking tearing the bev hose as it connects to the tailpiece.
 
I started with a fridge (top freezer curbside giveaway) and found it difficult to 1) control the temp in the fridge compartment and 2) access the tops of my pin locks to swap kegs, clean lines, etc. (ball locks may be a bit more manageable). Just last week, I evicted my fermenter into a 5 cf freezer and now have the 7 cf former ferm chamber all collared up and online as my keezer.

Todd

I'm glad it is working for you. In my experience, controlling the temp in a keezer is much more difficult using just a normal controller (not a brew Pi, which I think addresses the issue of over-cooling). I use a fridge for fermentation with excellent results and a keezer for serving with less than stellar results if I try to get it and keep it down in the low 30's.

To me, for serving, a fridge doesn't even need a controller. I'll take 'em at 38 degrees all day.
 
You and your wife may also dig the fact that if you use an ordinary refrigerator as your kegerator you can also use it to store food, wine, canned or bottled beer, and even have some extra freezer space. I keep mine in the garage and it ended up being very useful for stuff other than beer.

And you can use the freezer section to make huge blocks of ice for chilling, at the same time.
 
You and your wife may also dig the fact that if you use an ordinary refrigerator as your kegerator you can also use it to store food, wine, canned or bottled beer, and even have some extra freezer space. I keep mine in the garage and it ended up being very useful for stuff other than beer.

We did enjoy this aspect of having a refrigerator setup. However, you have to pay attention to where you put the temp probe. I originally put it in the refrigerator compartment. One winter day I found the ice cream, etc. going a little soft in the freezer compartment. The ambient temp was low enough for long enough that the temp controller decided that the compressor didn't need to run in order to maintain the refrigerator temp setting. This allowed the freezer compartment to warm. I moved the probe into the freezer compartment and adjusted the set temp so that the fridge part was around my serving temp. It seemed like it was a constant battle to get the freezer temp and the air flow settings to work right. So I went the keezer route.

Todd
 
I don't plan to use a temp controller at all for my refrigerator conversion. While my beers will probably be too cold, they'll get warmer quickly in the glass, and I won't have to worry about my freezer section getting too warm.
 
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