Coffin Keezer Lid Mount Issue

[JayMac]

Hi all,

I'm only about a week or two into my coffin keezer build (only built the controls), and I'm running into an issue with the old chest freezer I intended on using.

This inside of the lid is in the shape of a triangular prism, with the highest point travelling along the middle lengthwise. I intend on bolting a sheet of plywood to the top of the freezer lid, similar to how Jester did it in his build. The issue here is that the surface on the inside is not parallel to the top of the lid, and therefore doesn't allow the washers to sit flat and provide clamping force.

Is it worth it to remove the plastic inside of the lid, and replace with some sort of poly sheet? I can probably find a freezer with a flat lid for $100 used, but it seems like a waste of a perfectly good freezer I have at home. I know I have seen builds on here where people have replaced this part of the lid, but I can't find one for the life of me.

Any ideas?

 

[owmatooth]

cut a 2x4 end off at an angle to approximate the angle of the plastic, then drill a hole through the wedge to form a custom fit washer/spacer. you'll need a bolt that's an inch or two longer than you originally designed, but it will provide a nearly flat surface to put some torque to when you tighten down the washer and bolt.

 

[day_trippr]

The problem with the above is there is a lot of space between the liner and whatever might be under it - which could be rigid foam but could also be fiberglass insulation (I've seen both). Either way there's going to be a lot of liner squishing going on.
I would simply remove the liner, attach the plywood, then reinstall the liner.
I've done it a few times, if you're reasonably careful you can re-use all of the pop-fasteners...

Cheers!

 

[JayMac]

The problem with the above is there is a lot of space between the liner and whatever might be under it - which could be rigid foam but could also be fiberglass insulation (I've seen both). Either way there's going to be a lot of liner squishing going on.
I would simply remove the liner, attach the plywood, then reinstall the liner.
I've done it a few times, if you're reasonably careful you can re-use all of the pop-fasteners...

Cheers!

I've only seen threads where people clamp to the plastic - but you're suggesting to clamp it to the other side of the metal lid... correct? That actually sounds like it would work better.

Seems to make sense anyways, because I'm going to be cutting circular holes for PVC tubing for the liquid lines and air recirculation. It'll be hard to get a circular hole in the liner, but it should be do-able.

 

[day_trippr]

Yes, essentially bolt the plywood to the lid directly.
My keezers have been simple affairs with 6 faucet SS t-towers bolted through the lid and through a section of 3/4" plywood bonded to the underside of the lid.
The older version lid was lined with a couple of inches of rigid foam, while the latter just had fiberglass insulation. But both had that "profiled" lid liner thing where there's all kinds of angles and steps, so bolting through that wasn't going to have a prayer of supporting the tower with the lid swung open.

It's most easily done with the lid removed from the cabinet and laid across sawhorses...

Cheers!