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Bottled my second IPA with the catalyst today. Biggest thing I learned from the first one was to make sure the hop matter fully settled out into the jar. This time I pseudo cold crashed (closed in porch, like 50°). Doing that, this time I only lost maybe a pint in the beginning from hop gunk. The rest was all good beer.

Still love the idea of that inline. Might pick one up considering the price.
 
I am bottling my first beer from the Catalyst this weekend. I was surprised that I already pulled off two jars of trub...clearly pellet hops and whirlfloc create quite the sediment.

That inline filter looks intriguing, anybody actually used it? If it clogs mid bottling that could be an issue...
 
I am bottling my first beer from the Catalyst this weekend. I was surprised that I already pulled off two jars of trub...clearly pellet hops and whirlfloc create quite the sediment.

That inline filter looks intriguing, anybody actually used it? If it clogs mid bottling that could be an issue...


I used a half gallon jar, but then I dryhopped 6 ounces of pellets. It paid for me to only have to change the jar once. Last time when I had to change it twice on bottling day, each time you are stirring stuff up and waiting for it to settle, which it doesn't completely unless you wait for hours and hours, so you lose beer also.
 
I am bottling my first beer from the Catalyst this weekend. I was surprised that I already pulled off two jars of trub...clearly pellet hops and whirlfloc create quite the sediment.

That inline filter looks intriguing, anybody actually used it? If it clogs mid bottling that could be an issue...

I've ordered the filter. The vendor implies that clogs are fairly likely with hoppy beers. It says to close off the line before removing and cleaning the filter and that more than one cleaning may be necessary depending on the level of hoppiness. It sounds like we won't lose more than an ounce or two this way.
 
I've ordered the filter. The vendor implies that clogs are fairly likely with hoppy beers. It says to close off the line before removing and cleaning the filter and that more than one cleaning may be necessary depending on the level of hoppiness. It sounds like we won't lose more than an ounce or two this way.

It helps to have one or two of each size jar, that way, close the valve remove the jar with yeast cake, save for later pitch, put on a much smaller jar (wide mouth jars even come in as small as flat little 8oz jars), dry hop loose pellets, 3-7 days later when the hops have all collected in the small jar and you feel it has been long enough, close the valve, remove hop matter jar, put on bottling/kegging attachment.

One more tip for those that are new to conicals. a soft mallet and light taps around the cone are sometimes necessary to get the matter moving down into the jar. It works great and another great thing about this one being so clear is that you can watch it and be sure.
 
It helps to have one or two of each size jar, that way, close the valve remove the jar with yeast cake, save for later pitch, put on a much smaller jar (wide mouth jars even come in as small as flat little 8oz jars), dry hop loose pellets, 3-7 days later when the hops have all collected in the small jar and you feel it has been long enough, close the valve, remove hop matter jar, put on bottling/kegging attachment.



One more tip for those that are new to conicals. a soft mallet and light taps around the cone are sometimes necessary to get the matter moving down into the jar. It works great and another great thing about this one being so clear is that you can watch it and be sure.


Good advice. I need to somehow experiment with just how many pellet hops will fit in a pint or quart jar. I completely filled a half gallon jar with fermentation trub and 4 ounces dry hops, and there was still some left in the fermenter.
 
I have several sizes of jars, but wish I knew when I was removing a jar with mostly trub and when it was time to attach the little 8-oz jar to save the yeast for next time.
 
I have several sizes of jars, but wish I knew when I was removing a jar with mostly trub and when it was time to attach the little 8-oz jar to save the yeast for next time.


Typically attach yeast jar after primary trub settles and before dry hopping.
 
I have several sizes of jars, but wish I knew when I was removing a jar with mostly trub and when it was time to attach the little 8-oz jar to save the yeast for next time.

You could also follow the typical yeast washing procedure a few times until you find the sweet spot of trub/yeast OR depending how long you want to store your yeast just store the entire mason jar of yeast/trub mix and use slurry calculators.
I'm excited to give this to my step father along with a thermapen and 4 cans of yeast starter.
 
Bottled my initial batch and loving the catalyst so far but have a question regarding cleaning. Seems I didn't do a good enough job on the valve assembly and now have some fairly foul odors coming from it. Took it apart and the culprit, of course, are the two, smaller silicon seals, and the main seal around the valve. I've soaked in oxy clean, pbw, and while better, still have some off odors that I'd like to avoid in my next batch. Hesitant to use bleach - maybe vinegar?

Any suggestions or am I hosed and should look for replacements?

BTW - valve assembly came apart nicely for future deep cleaning, so don't be hesitant to take it apart.
 
Silicone?
One word - boil.
Take this advice. For materials which tolerate high temperatures, that is the easiest way to get guaranteed sanitation. Things can hide from chemicals in scratches and crevices, but heat permeates and kills all.
 
If you have a pressure cooker and the stuff can handle 250 plus degrees, then that's even better. (I guess an oven bake at 250F is an option if dry heat is OK - should be for silicone). That'll kill the few bugs that can survive boiling.

But what it doesn't help with is getting the foodstuffs out that bugs can breed on later.
 
Kegged my first batch out of the Catalyst this afternoon. Color me unimpressed. There was a lot of sediment left clinging to the walls of the thing. The materiel it's made of is great, but that angle has to be steeper to be effective.
 
Anyone figured out a way to easily mount the silicone gasket? It took me 20 minutes to get mine installed last night.
 
Anyone figured out a way to easily mount the silicone gasket? It took me 20 minutes to get mine installed last night.


There is a video on their site about how to reinstall the gasket. I agree it's kind of a pain, but not a deal breaker.
 
Kegged my first batch out of the Catalyst this afternoon. Color me unimpressed. There was a lot of sediment left clinging to the walls of the thing. The materiel it's made of is great, but that angle has to be steeper to be effective.


I'll happily buy it off you! I agree the angle could be steeper. Someone else recommended taping the walls with a rubber mallet to loosen debris, but I haven't actually tried that yet.
 
Check your Mason jar!!! I went to check on the batch I stout I started last night and noticed that two of the cover latches had popped open. I gave them a smack so they'd seal properly. Much to my surprise (and chagrin,) the Mason jar fell off the bottom of the fermenter. Not sure how this happened. The jar hadn't leaked, so I assume it was screwed on properly. Before I could act, all 5 gallons of wort were down the drain, literally.
Arrgh.
 
I'll happily buy it off you! I agree the angle could be steeper. Someone else recommended taping the walls with a rubber mallet to loosen debris, but I haven't actually tried that yet.


I think I'll keep it for now. I think it should be simple enough to just tap the sides a bit to get it to slough down in to the collection jar but after 1 batch through it that theory didn't pan out. Maybe bump it with a palm sander or something of the sort. Maybe strap one of these to it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/302192009051?

Could maybe close the collection jar, open the lid, give things a swirl, close it up and open the valve again. Hard to say. Got a batch of apfelwein in it now, will see how that pans out vs the Irish red ale I just ran through it.
 
Check your Mason jar!!! I went to check on the batch I stout I started last night and noticed that two of the cover latches had popped open. I gave them a smack so they'd seal properly. Much to my surprise (and chagrin,) the Mason jar fell off the bottom of the fermenter. Not sure how this happened. The jar hadn't leaked, so I assume it was screwed on properly. Before I could act, all 5 gallons of wort were down the drain, literally.
Arrgh.

I had a variation on this same problem, but with less tragic results. My jar was screwed on a little too tightly and when I twisted a little too well, the whole black valve unit on the bottom of the rig began to unscrew instead! I lost only a few ounces before catching my mistake and screwing it back on, but I've been extra paranoid since then to make sure all of the pieces are playing nice with each other.
 
Check your Mason jar!!! I went to check on the batch I stout I started last night and noticed that two of the cover latches had popped open. I gave them a smack so they'd seal properly. Much to my surprise (and chagrin,) the Mason jar fell off the bottom of the fermenter. Not sure how this happened. The jar hadn't leaked, so I assume it was screwed on properly. Before I could act, all 5 gallons of wort were down the drain, literally.
Arrgh.

That unfortunately does sound terrible, we were playing around in our brew lab this morning trying to find out what happened and we were unable to replicate the results. It would seem hard to be attached with no leaking then fall completely off since it needs to be threaded 720 degrees to seal. Would you me able to DM me, we are interested to hear more and see if there is anything else we can do to help.

I think I'll keep it for now. I think it should be simple enough to just tap the sides a bit to get it to slough down in to the collection jar but after 1 batch through it that theory didn't pan out. Maybe bump it with a palm sander or something of the sort. Maybe strap one of these to it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/302192009051?

Could maybe close the collection jar, open the lid, give things a swirl, close it up and open the valve again. Hard to say. Got a batch of apfelwein in it now, will see how that pans out vs the Irish red ale I just ran through it.

Generally if there is some yeast stuck to the sides of the tank this can be dislodged by giving the unit a light rock. If it is a thin layer of yeast then it will still stick to the tank and stay behind when bottling. This thin layer of sediment occurs on all conicals yet generally they are opaque and you can not see this until it is being cleaned.

I had a variation on this same problem, but with less tragic results. My jar was screwed on a little too tightly and when I twisted a little too well, the whole black valve unit on the bottom of the rig began to unscrew instead! I lost only a few ounces before catching my mistake and screwing it back on, but I've been extra paranoid since then to make sure all of the pieces are playing nice with each other.

This can occur if the jar is tightened too much, when sealing the jar onto the valve only turn until a seal is reached. If it is overtightened and left to sit during fermentation it can be very hard to get off and can even take the valve with it.
 
Check your Mason jar!!! I went to check on the batch I stout I started last night and noticed that two of the cover latches had popped open. I gave them a smack so they'd seal properly. Much to my surprise (and chagrin,) the Mason jar fell off the bottom of the fermenter. Not sure how this happened. The jar hadn't leaked, so I assume it was screwed on properly. Before I could act, all 5 gallons of wort were down the drain, literally.
Arrgh.


What a mess and tragic loss of beer!
 
I still think that angle needs to be steeper, but so far the apfelwein is looking a lot better than the Irish red. Definitely a keeper. Got a Tilt hydrometer on the way and I think I'll get an Immersion Pro to go with it now.
 
Definitely a keeper. Got a Tilt hydrometer on the way....

I got a Tilt for Christmas...you can see it floating nicely in my Catalyst. I really like the thing, pretty slick:

16251830_10155713432658136_4635236535740079601_o.jpg
 
Tracking info was in my inbox this morning. Expected delivery date of Monday. I fly out to Milan on Tuesday morning at 6AM. I wonder if I can manage a days work, getting packed to leave, attend a County fire chief's meeting AND brew a batch?
 
Is it possible to order just the lid and silicone seal? I'd like to try adding a stainless steel thermowell to the lid, but I want to have an extra just in case things go awry.
 
Company said spare parts would be available. Give them a ring, and let us know how it goes!
 
For now, I took a #10.5 rubber stopper and bored two holes into the stopper, one for the thermowell, and one for the blowoff, looks like it will work.

I also do "no-chill", so after whirlpooling the wort for 45 min, I dumped the hot (about 165F / 74C) wort directly into the Catalyst, and moved it directly to my fermentation chamber. I also put a quart wide-mouth mason jar on the valve, and opened it.

After about 15 hours, the wort had cooled to pitching temp, and the trub had settled out.
trub.png

I replaced the quart jar with a pint jar for the yeast.
 
That's the very setup I'm looking at. Just have to get past the price tag!

Yeah, that's a heck of a price break they have if you order 3 vs just 1. I'll probably reach out to the local club(s) when I'm ready to order and see if I can't find a couple other brewers to get in with me on the order.
 
Just oxygenated and pitched yeast, and sanitized and dropped in my Tilt Hydrometer. The Tilt's reading 1.078 while my eDrometer showed 1.086. Not too worried though, I only use the tilt to track progress.
 
Hi, got my Catalyst a couple of weeks ago and brewing my first batch with it this weekend. Question (and sorry if it's been asked but I tried a quick search and didn't find anything)-I'm still a newbie brewing extract kits and my next beer is a hoppy porter. The last hop addition are whole hops that the recipe says can be added in the last two minutes of boil, or dry hop for a few days prior to bottling. I'm thinking whole hops will cause a ton of problems in the catalyst and will potentially clog up the valve. Should I add them to the boil and then strain my wort as I pour into the Catalyst? I would prefer the dry hop method but afraid it will cause issues. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
I dry hopped an IPA I just brewed. I sanitized a mesh bag, put the hops in the bag, and put that in the catalyst. Pulling the bag out when it was time to keg was easy - nothing to clog or clean up.
 
I thought it might be helpful for owners of the Catalyst fermentation system to see a thermowell and sample port mod (no leaks) in a photo. Albeit, some may prefer different spigots, you get the idea.

You can also see the new cover with handles.

IMG_2753[4114].jpg


IMG_2755[4115].jpg
 
I thought it might be helpful for owners of the Catalyst fermentation system to see a thermowell and sample port mod (no leaks) in a photo. Albeit, some may prefer different spigots, you get the idea.

You can also see the new cover with handles.

Looks good!!:rockin:

I did something similar with the stopper, I just used a blowoff tube going down to a yeast collector.

What did you use to drill the hole for the sample port, and what weldless adapter did you use?
 
Thanks!

I used an "Easy Seal Stainless Steel Weldless Bulkhead" for the sample port and a Steel Step Conical Drill bit to core the hole.

You're right a blow off tube is better as this airlock can fill up at times.
 
Any other Catalyst users having trouble with Diacetyl?

I think my yeast is floccing out and losing contact with the wort as it settles into the mason jar. Any ideas? I use yeast that's specific to high- alcohol tolerance

thanks in advance
 
I have not had that problem and do not understand why the mason jar might make a difference. Once the yeast flocs out, isn't it done no matter where it flocs to?
 
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