[start]
"TB1" State = false
[loop]
if "TB1" State == true
print "Pressed"
"TB1" State = false
endif
if "TB1" State == true
print "On my own"
endif
sleep 1000
goto loop
This sounds very interesting. I would like to hear more about how to get started with making decisions about BruControl hardware implementation for people not familiar with Arduino. In particular, what are the pros and cons of the various shields you sell, what is the best use for each shield or at least some examples of how they have been used successfully. For example, why you went with the board you did for the automated keg cleaning system above.
Thanks. That is very encouraging. I appreciate your input. I have read through the manual and some of this forum. I know where I want to land, but there seem to be so many different ways to get there that I'm not sure what the first step should be. Perhaps the podcast will help make that clearer. In the meantime, thanks again.
Yea I have the Arduino powered with its own separate power supply, its a 24v to 12v stepdown. The ground ties to where all the other grounds tie, which is a central location (din mounted bus bar). The bus bar is tied to my backing plate which is tied to AC earth ground. I believe the concept here is to have a dedicated ground circuit from each device to a central point, please correct me if I'm wrong. One thing I'm confused about is why there are multiple grounds on components. I see three on the Mega, two on Salon board and two on RP3. I ensure all pins are utilized with dedicated circuit as described above. In an attempt to diagnose the issue, I've tried a single ground to each of these but that didn't resolve the issue.
Below is a diagram of both Main panel and the Sub panel. The main panel is all DC components harboring the Mega, RP3, Salon Board relays and DC power supplies. The sub panel is where the AC controlled devices come into play. The signal between the two is a 12mm connector.
I measure 0 volts when performing the test described above. Ive always had this terminal to ground tho. I tried using a direct route back to the PS 24DC- this didnt resolve the issue.
I am using plastic control panel with metal backing plate. The AC earth ground ties to the backing plate and all DC- circuits tie to the backing plate via DIN mounted terminal blocks. I do not have any daisy chained grounds from PCB's in fact each component has its own ground circuit to the terminal blocks.
Check out the attached pictures. All DC- circuits together to backboard (which is attached to AC earth ground via the green wires shown bottom left). The DC- (depending on location) tie to the backing plate at either one of the three locations. You'll see two locations of DIN mount terminal blocks (yellow/green) which have continuity to DIN rail. These are used for Salon Board relay, Mega and RP-3. The third location is the 2in 8 out DIN mount terminal distribution which the DC- IN is tied to the backing plate at the same location the AC earth ground ties to the backing plate. This is used for the 24V DC- return from the SSR at subpanel.
This is correct. All DC- whether 12V, 5V or 24V tie to a common earth ground.
Logged on now!
Yes, when I say AC i mean Air conditioning unit. The symptom begins when I use the Air conditioning unit and persists even after I disconnect it. Its almost like energy is being stored somewhere or the Salon Board is going into a certain mode. I can "reset" it by disconnecting and reconnecting the DC control jumper. I also notice the relay shut off even when I plug in the DC jumper cord. Or anytime I plug an extension cord in.
I am powering the Salon Relay Board VCC using 12v DC via a stepdown which pulls from 24VDC (I have the 12v coil model). The flashing relay #4 is controlled by Pin D34
Again, the switch stuff has been eliminated until I can figure out this issue.
Perhaps you can reiterate the conditions since I have eliminated the switches?
How do I test this?
To date, I have tried both. I ensured they were both sourced by the same 120VAC circuit which has correct wiring. 120V across hot and ground and 120V across neutral and hot. I see milliamps across neutral and ground.
I'm looking deeper into this. I did test my shed (which controls the Air conditioner) and neutral and hot were wired wrong by previous owner. I also came across an extension cord that has been used during testing which was also reverse wired. I fixed the extension cord and am no longer using the shed circuit until I have time to fix it.
This is correct. Can we rule out the house wiring being that I ran the main and sub panel on the same circuit which is testing 120V across hot and ground and 120V across neutral and hot? I cant say for certain if another circuit is causing problems. This is quite the chore but its on the list to do. Thoughts?
