Blichmann Thrumometer--high temp alternative?

[mongoose33]

I have a new counterflow chiller. I want to be able to monitor the temp coming out so I can dial in the proper temperature going into the fermenter--something like 70 degrees, for instance.

My LHBS sold me a Blichmann Thrumometer, which seemed like the perfect answer to this question, until I got home and read on the side of the device that one should not put liquids through it hotter than 140 degrees.

Well. That's an issue. If I have a kettle of 200-degree wort, I certainly can't run that through the Thrumometer. I suppose I could try to dial down the temp so it's cool enough, then run it through the Thrumometer, but this seems kludgy to me.

How do all of you who use a similar setup (either counterflow or plate chiller) monitor the temp on the out-side of the chiller? Seems like I'll need to take this back to the LHBS.

PS: I'm a big Blichmann fan; the fact that this doesn't work for me isn't a knock on Blichmann; it's clear on the side of the Thrumometer what the max temp is. Shame on me for not seeing that at the LHBS.

 

[passedpawn]

Dial thermometer? My therminator is mounted in this toolbox, but you can see how the wort out port has an elbow and a tee and the short thermometer.

BTW, I originally used a blich thermometer, but the face clouded and made it unusable. This one is a cheap one I bought from Bobby_M I think.

 

[mongoose33]

I'm kicking myself about this. I bought this yesterday, just after I made my order for Bobby's new Steam Killer device. I could have added a "T" fitting as well as a short-stem thermometer. I have three dial thermometers all of which have 2" probes.

Does anyone make a ready-made device like this or is it a DIY type of thing?

 

[passedpawn]

BTW, because I'm a cheap basterd, I did try to make my own. Worked great for a while. Then not so great.

Inline Thermometer Build - 3/4" - Simple Simple

 

[augiedoggy]

They do sell them premade as kits for plate chillers to make up portibility stands and such as well but everyone Ive seen is sold at a silly markup vs just buying a tee and installing a thermometer like mentioned.

I have been using (for 5 years) a tee permanently mounted to the output of my plate chiller with a dial style gauge like passedpawns first pic only I bought mine from bargainfitting.com I have never had a reason to touch it. I do recirc hot wort through at post boil to sanitize.
if you wanted you could also use camlocks to have the tee movable to put inline wherever you need to measure temps.

 

[augiedoggy]

BTW, because I'm a cheap basterd, I did try to make my own. Worked great for a while. Then not so great.

Inline Thermometer Build - 3/4" - Simple Simple

I would think unless you had a way to keep cold break out of the wort , that this might plug depending how that thermometer works.

 

[passedpawn]

I would think unless you had a way to keep cold break out of the wort , that this might plug depending how that thermometer works.

That wasn't a problem (at least not for the thrumometer clone). But the plate chiller itself was occasionally an issue, and generally a nuisance. I replaced it with a different form of chiller. It's gathering dust with other hobby jetsam in the bin of misfit toys.

 

[mongoose33]

I've ordered a TC fitting with the "T" on it I can use for a dial thermometer. Thank you both for the input!

 

[jkovac]

I have a new counterflow chiller. I want to be able to monitor the temp coming out so I can dial in the proper temperature going into the fermenter--something like 70 degrees, for instance.

My LHBS sold me a Blichmann Thrumometer, which seemed like the perfect answer to this question, until I got home and read on the side of the device that one should not put liquids through it hotter than 140 degrees.

Well. That's an issue. If I have a kettle of 200-degree wort, I certainly can't run that through the Thrumometer. I suppose I could try to dial down the temp so it's cool enough, then run it through the Thrumometer, but this seems kludgy to me.

How do all of you who use a similar setup (either counterflow or plate chiller) monitor the temp on the out-side of the chiller? Seems like I'll need to take this back to the LHBS.

PS: I'm a big Blichmann fan; the fact that this doesn't work for me isn't a knock on Blichmann; it's clear on the side of the Thrumometer what the max temp is. Shame on me for not seeing that at the LHBS.

I might be misunderstanding your question. If you are using the Thrumometer to monitor the temp coming out of the chiller and going into the fermenter, why would that be 140 degrees? I use a Thrumometer on the out side of a Therminator chiller. The temp coming out is usually about 75 degrees. Do you mean you want to monitor the temp coming out of the boil kettle and into the chiller?

 

[mongoose33]

I might be misunderstanding your question. If you are using the Thrumometer to monitor the temp coming out of the chiller and going into the fermenter, why would that be 140 degrees? I use a Thrumometer on the out side of a Therminator chiller. The temp coming out is usually about 75 degrees. Do you mean you want to monitor the temp coming out of the boil kettle and into the chiller?

Yes, that's exactly right.

I don't know what kind of temperature will come out at first--and maybe I should do some experimenting to see. My groundwater temp changes throughout the year. Right now, pretty warm. In March, pretty cold.

If I get a burst of very hot wort, hotter than 140 degrees before it cools down, then two bad things may happen: the Thrumometer will be toast and, if I'm transferring into one of my Bigmouth Bubblers, I may melt it.

[I normally like to use the stainless conical, but my pipeline is nearly empty and the conical is finishing a batch; I need to go to my backup fermenters, the BMBs.]

Now, when I transfer to my stainless conical, if the first burst is too hot, it won't be so much that it'll affect the overall temp when the wort gets in there. I can adjust using the valve on the pump, but I may not have it dialed in until after I've had a burst of too-hot wort go through the Thrumometer.

I had thought about recirculating to the kettle and feeling the fittings; if pretty cool, I'd shut off the pump, close the top ball valve, clamp the hose, and then connect it to the Thrumometer and that would go into the kettle. But it's not a very elegant way to do this.

 

[passedpawn]

Yes, that's exactly right.

I don't know what kind of temperature will come out at first--and maybe I should do some experimenting to see. My groundwater temp changes throughout the year. Right now, pretty warm. In March, pretty cold.

If I get a burst of very hot wort, hotter than 140 degrees before it cools down, then two bad things may happen: the Thrumometer will be toast and, if I'm transferring into one of my Bigmouth Bubblers, I may melt it.

[I normally like to use the stainless conical, but my pipeline is nearly empty and the conical is finishing a batch; I need to go to my backup fermenters, the BMBs.]

Now, when I transfer to my stainless conical, if the first burst is too hot, it won't be so much that it'll affect the overall temp when the wort gets in there. I can adjust using the valve on the pump, but I may not have it dialed in until after I've had a burst of too-hot wort go through the Thrumometer.

I had thought about recirculating to the kettle and feeling the fittings; if pretty cool, I'd shut off the pump, close the top ball valve, clamp the hose, and then connect it to the Thrumometer and that would go into the kettle. But it's not a very elegant way to do this.

The temp is certainly over 140 if you're recirculating to kettle. That's what I do for at least 5 minutes and it must take a minute (at least) to get under 140 at the chiller output. I like to run it full speed at that time, then drop the flow down and divert to the fermentor.

 

[MrPowers]

I use one of these on the output side of my CFC. https://www.morebeer.com/products/inline-thermometer-quick-disconnects.html

I just recirculate back into the kettle through my CFC, for the last 10 minutes of the boil to sanitize everything with heat. I can use it to make sure I get my chiller temp up over 200F. Then, I just turn the water on, and let it chill while still whirlpooling in the kettle. When the output of the chiller is putting out the temp I want. I stop the whirlpool, and transfer right to the fermenter.

 

[day_trippr]

I went with a dial gauge from Bobby's shop...

Cheers!

 

[mongoose33]

I was able to brew this afternoon--late afternoon--and I just recirculated the wort until it chilled down to about 72 degrees. Took about 25 minutes or so, edging on to 30 minutes. That's too long, IMO.

So I want to be able to chill that right into the fermenter. I should be able to cut that time down to about 7 minutes. Maybe less.

 

[helterscelter]

I went with a dial gauge from Bobby's shop...

View attachment 588072

View attachment 588074

Cheers!

More details on your stand please! Looks neet. Why do you have your chiller on a latching pivot?

 

[day_trippr]

I built the stand to fit in the back of my suv, but it would only fit laid on its side, so I designed everything to be inside the frame perimeter when needed. The pumps are on sliders and the chiller swings out, and they can all be locked down or latched either way. All the other bits are set back inside the frame.

I need to take better pictures, but this shows the key elements...

Cheers!