Turning off fermentation temp control

[Whisky River]

Having precise fermentation temperature control has been a huge benefit for my brewing and I love the ability to dial in my ferm temps to within a half a degree. But after a batch has been in the fermenter for a few weeks, every time I walk past it I feel like it’s wasteful to keep running the chiller 24/7 every day until I package at week 3-4.

I have read “most” of the benefits of good temp control happen in the first few days but does anyone just shut off their chiller after a week or so and let the fermenter rise to room temp?

 

[RM-MN]

I think this article best describes how the yeast work and the schedule that can work for you.

http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html

 

[Whisky River]

That’s a great article and a really concise overview of the yeast lifecycle, but I guess I was wondering more about the impact of higher temperatures after the 10 day Stationary Phase he talks about.

The article seems to describe a more commercial process of cold crashing and packaging as soon as possible but I know many of us leave our beers in primary for a few weeks to condition before packaging. Just wondering if anyone lets the temp free rise for conditioning after 10-14 days?

 

[Want2Brew]

I start raising the temp in the fermentation chamber (a few degrees per day) as soon as active fermentation is over. Seems to help things finish out a little faster. I don’t at this point cold crash before keging (after two weeks in the primary) for no other reason than it’s inconvenient with the current arrangement though I do believe that my beer would benefit in clarity if I did so. But to answers your questions, I don’t believe you’ll see any ill effects from allowing you beer temp to increase to somewhere between 70 and 76 degrees F in the primary after active fermentation has calmed down. Hope this helps!

 

[ba-brewer]

Without temp control you may run the risk of the head space cooling and drawing air back into the fermentor through the airlock. Could also happen with the cooler running too once active fermentation is over and the beer is only off gassing. Maybe leave the heater on.

 

[pvpeacock]

I run my temperature control at fermentation temps for the first 5-7 days, then I increase the temp. little by little approx. 10 degrees over the next few days. Then, about day 10 or 11, I turn it all off and let the beer sit for another few days before kegging it. I've never had a problem with suck back from the airlock doing it this way.

 

[Dog House Brew]

I never let my beer sit in the primary. I generally go 7 days and crash for 1-2days and in the keg. I’d rather my beer make it into a closed environment. When I bottle, I’ll run the same schedule. I’ll add that it also depends on the time of year and what the ambient temp is where I’m fermenting.

 

[day_trippr]

I use a half dozen yeast strains regularly, do 10 gallon batches split between pairs of 6.5 gallon glass, with typical OGs in the 60s to 70s, and in just shy of 20 years of brewing beer at home I've never had a batch ready to crash in just 7 days.

Must be something special about Indiana

Cheers!

 

[ba-brewer]

007, 029 and some of the British yeast are done in 7days with a modest gravity of 1050 or less and don't require crashing.

 

[Whisky River]

I use a half dozen yeast strains regularly, do 10 gallon batches split between pairs of 6.5 gallon glass, with typical OGs in the 60s to 70s, and in just shy of 20 years of brewing beer at home I've never had a batch ready to crash in just 7 days.

Must be something special about Indiana

Cheers!

Why does this sound so familiar….?

 

[Dog House Brew]

Depends on the yeast I guess. I run 007 and it is terminal at 5 days generally. I raise the temp to 70 for 2 days, and then proceed. Stouts and high gravities can add some time, but I never go more than 2 weeks on anything. Just me I guess

 

[Dog House Brew]

I’ll add that I pitch active yeast. There’s no lag time to speak of, I do think it makes a difference. Aerate well and let it fly.

 

[day_trippr]

I never go more than 2 weeks on anything.

Two weeks is about right for everything I brew.
But 7 days? Unicorn stuff. Or nasty Kveik

Cheers!

 

[Dog House Brew]

Two weeks is about right for everything I brew.
But 7 days? Unicorn stuff. Or nasty Kveik

Cheers!

I did 1, I mean 1, Kveik. Kveik shows to me that everyone has different tastes. Kind of like bock for me, just can’t drink it. I’ll agree 2 weeks is good. All things are dependent on what style, variables, are involved.

 

[Want2Brew]

I did 1, I mean 1, Kveik. Kveik shows to me that everyone has different tastes. Kind of like bock for me, just can’t drink it. I’ll agree 2 weeks is good. All things are dependent on what style, variables, are involved.

Right on. Time conditioning after kegging or bottling is a factor as well.

 

[Dog House Brew]

Right on. Time conditioning after kegging or bottling is a factor as well.

I’d say it is as equal to the time spent in fermentation. Most of my ales are 4-6 weeks before they are tapped. I prefer my lagers at 2.5-3 months of cold conditioning. All tastes and processes are different for everyone. Space and abilities also make a difference. I have a 22 cu ft freezer that holds conditioning kegs. Those things make a difference in the process. That thing holds 15 plus kegs. I only have 18 kegs, so it works out.

 

[Alan Reginato]

Maturation is a thing. That X days grain to glass race is completely nonsense. Even with Kveik. The yeast needs time to reabsorb fermentation byproducts. Diacetyl rest, remember? Even if you're going to dry hopping and kegging, just leave it for the final days. Your beer are going to be much better!