Anyone use EZBoil with 240V Rims Tube?

[Douglefish]

Does this work pretty well? I'm assuming it's PID based, I want to control temps pretty accurately.

 

[doug293cz]

The EZBoils (DSPRxxx, not DSPR1) do the same job as PID's, but use a different control algorithm, so that they usually don't require any tuning. They also have some low level automation functions that can be useful. I haven't used one on a RIMS, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Brew on

 

[mabrungard]

Hmm? I use DSPR1 for my kettle element, but I use regular Auber PIDs for my RIMS and HLT. You do need a temperature sensor immediately downstream of your heating element to avoid overheating your wort. I know that a DSPR1 won't provide that. I don't know if the other EZboils that do have temp sensors use the temperature reading to alter the element powering.

 

[doug293cz]

Hmm? I use DSPR1 for my kettle element, but I use regular Auber PIDs for my RIMS and HLT. You do need a temperature sensor immediately downstream of your heating element to avoid overheating your wort. I know that a DSPR1 won't provide that. I don't know if the other EZboils that do have temp sensors use the temperature reading to alter the element powering.

Yes, the DSPRxxx models all use a temp probe (PT-100 RTD only) to provide closed loop feedback control to adjust element power, when in mash mode. The DSPR's provide shorter power cycle time than any of the other PID's commonly used in homebrew systems, which could be an advantage for RIMS applications.

Brew on

 

[Douglefish]

Thanks guys, I'm trying to keep the wort as close as possible to boiling without actually boiling it. I think the smallest possible cycle time is likely what I need without giving up heating speed through my rims.

 

[Throttle79]

I have been using an EZboil on my RIMS with a lot of success. It comes programmed with a mashing mode and a boil mode. In mash it will control to a temperature set-point and Boil mode it works as a power regulator.

 

[Smellyglove]

Thanks guys, I'm trying to keep the wort as close as possible to boiling without actually boiling it. I think the smallest possible cycle time is likely what I need without giving up heating speed through my rims.

Wait. You're gonna run the wort through the rims at close to boiling temps, then get it back to the mash tun to keep temps where you want them? This will denature your enzymes and will not work.

 

[augiedoggy]

^ this.. conversion takes place in the wort so if you heat the wort higher than your desired conversion temp in your rims it actually effects your conversion. many people dont get this and have varying results in thier beer and fermentibility of the wort because of it.

I have the best results with a longer gentler heating rims with more contact time at a element temp closest to the desired wort temp setpoint for best and most consistent conversion.. I get 91% efficiency consistently with this at home. (240v rims 1800w 36" long rims element).

I know decoction does something similar but its actually a bit different and usually with only some of the mash effected.

 

[mabrungard]

I'll echo those concerns since I sort of did that with my original RIMS that only had an on/off switch to control the element. You end up with very worty tasting beer that doesn't attenuate very well.

You ONLY need to concern yourself with the temperature of the wort coming out of the RIMS unit. You DO NOT need to concern yourself with the temperature of the mash bed. If your wort is coming out of the RIMS tube at the targeted temperature, the mash bed will get there eventually.

By the way, I have electronic thermometers placed at the inlet and outlet of my mash tun to enable me to see when the 'temperature wave' has made it through the mash bed.

 

[Douglefish]

Thanks for the responses and sorry for not being super clear as to what I'm trying to attempt. I posted this in another thread and I got a bunch of feedback without much help so I tried to leave out the details this time to not derail the conversation. My goal is 1 vessel brewing for simplicity / time savings. I have a SS Brewtech conical that is insulated so here is my plan....

1) Recirc through my RIMS tube with full volume till it reaches strike temp
2) BIAB mash without recirc
3) pull the bag and then start to recirc through my RIMS tube at NEAR boiling temps with mostly covered lid to do a Zymatic type of boil
4) No-Chill, dump trub and then ferment

I'm using a BCS-460 to run my rims tube with a 5500W element and I got some boiling in the rims tube when getting near boiling.

In addition, I think it's a pretty cool experiment.