Another EBIAB journey

[ZackN]

Yes another EBIAB build.

I have been extract brewing for almost 4 years now and I think its time to take the jump to Allgrain.

To make things 'simpler' ill use a BIAB system (that i build) to brew.

I like that its simple (one kettle for all), and has less explosive potential.

This thread will hopefully document my progress.

Timeline is 'quick' I am getting married in Sept (6 months)and need to brew 6 or so batches before then. A big problem is that I will be away for 6 weeks before, and wont have have time to finish after I get back. a few other events bring my total time to get this project complete and brew a few test batches to 15 weeks. I have previously done some research and started making a parts list.

Budget: student. But I think I can get about profit $400 out of some corney kegs I picked up recently, and I have other money to spend, I know ill need to. I dont need name brand parts, but wouldn't mind them. I have scrap wire and a few terminals and connections at work that I can use (I hope).

Knowledge: I have you guys, so im good there! But I also know how to weld, and fix various mechanical and electrical devices, so it will hopefully go smoothly.

I have 220 available, and even have 480 3phase at work, but I think that 3 phase would knock this out of my price range, as well as limit my brewing locations.

First step will be getting a sankey keg as my kettle.

Wish me luck, and hopefully this is a smooth 15 weeks!

 

[Rotor_Head]

Good luck, man. If you brew it, they will come.

 

[ZackN]

Picked up a Keg this morning, I suppose I should have looked closer at it before hefting it to my car... Going to try and go back tomorrow and switch it out.

 

[Bobby_M]

Just cut the bottom as the hole and bottom drain that thing.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

^what he said. Bottom drain is awesome.

 

[ZackN]

I was going to avoid this at first, because I want to use my current IC and whirlpool, but then If found this, and now it looks like ill be a bottom drainer!

 

[ZackN]

Well it seems that I jumped the gun a little.
I have already started to build the kettle, and have ordered parts.
Last night I decided to make sure that the main service plugs were correct.
I read through some(alot) of the electric primer stickey.

Looks like my connections are 240v with no ground. (see 1st picture)
I was hoping to use a spa panel with a GFIC breaker in it.

This plug is at the shop at work, and a welding machine uses the same plug so I cant change it.

There is the same plug in a different building, and it does not get used at all, so I could potentially rewire it for the ground. It is not exactly where I want to brew, but I can still make it work.

There are also these plugs that I can use, but they are 3phase and I want to avoid complications if possible. 208 and 400ish(forgot actual volts) volts (2nd pic)

We also have some various extra electrical equipment that the company might let me have if I ask nicely, and promise beer in return...
pic 3 and 4 - Heavy duty switch box- could maybe put my GFIC stuff in here?
Pic 5 - various connectors
Pic 6 - various electrical boxes and components, a small length of thick cable, but only 3 wire (can I use this for my element if it has proper rating or do I need 4 wire?)
Pic 7 - some various elec. and hydraulic components removed from a press.

We will also be tearing down a building, so I can probably pull wire from there, and maybe a few select components.

 

[ZackN]

This is the location of the other panel and plug in a different building.

It should be fairly easy to switch out for GFIC and add a ground correct?
Plug is right below main box there.
Looks like the breaker is a dual, and they are both 50A.
Checked with voltage detector to find the correct breaker.

Any thoughts?

 

[ZackN]

It looks like i just found my answer deep within the E-Primer Stickey.
Either this or just run a ground and get a new 4 wire receptacle on the outlet with ground going back to the main panel which is just inches away.
From P-J:

Couple of options: Get this for $49.00
HomeDepot GE 50A spa panel

And wire it like one or the other of these images show:

 

[huntb]

Well it seems that I jumped the gun a little.
I have already started to build the kettle, and have ordered parts.
Last night I decided to make sure that the main service plugs were correct.
I read through some(alot) of the electric primer stickey.

Looks like my connections are 240v with no ground. (see 1st picture)
I was hoping to use a spa panel with a GFIC breaker in it.

This plug is at the shop at work, and a welding machine uses the same plug so I cant change it.

There is the same plug in a different building, and it does not get used at all, so I could potentially rewire it for the ground. It is not exactly where I want to brew, but I can still make it work.

There are also these plugs that I can use, but they are 3phase and I want to avoid complications if possible. 208 and 400ish(forgot actual volts) volts (2nd pic)

We also have some various extra electrical equipment that the company might let me have if I ask nicely, and promise beer in return...
pic 3 and 4 - Heavy duty switch box- could maybe put my GFIC stuff in here?
Pic 5 - various connectors
Pic 6 - various electrical boxes and components, a small length of thick cable, but only 3 wire (can I use this for my element if it has proper rating or do I need 4 wire?)
Pic 7 - some various elec. and hydraulic components removed from a press.

We will also be tearing down a building, so I can probably pull wire from there, and maybe a few select components.

First of all the three wire plug is most likely missing neutral not ground. I have seen threads where people have wired up their GFCI (not GFIC) without having a neutral line so you don't necessarily need it unless you are going to need 120V for something

 

[jeffmeh]

A 3 wire dryer outlet is likely H-H-N. A pure 240v element would be fed with H-H-G. If that is your scenario, then wire the spa panel according to the lower picture.

 

[ZackN]

Thanks guys! I might get started on the spa panel portion this week.

A 3 wire dryer outlet is likely H-H-N. A pure 240v element would be fed with H-H-G. If that is your scenario, then wire the spa panel according to the lower picture.

If these were originally set up for a welder, would It still likely be H-H-N?

Ill drag my multimeter over there tomorrow and check out what kind of voltage is coming off the plug.

Talked with the boss today and he said I can have any electrical components I want (ones that I took Pictures of)

Im going to try and use this box work as a makeshift "spa panel".

I think Ill be able to pull those fuses out and fit my GFCI set up in there.
Hopefully keep the switch, but might not depending on space.
Any thoughts?

 

[jeffmeh]

You will have to check your wiring to see whether you have H-H-N or H-H-G. Someone may be able to chime in the best way to test this, but basically you need to determine whether the wire in question in your main panel is terminated at the neutral bar or the ground bar. Assuming the original wiring followed code standards, if it is bare or green it would be ground, and if it is white it would be neutral. Otherwise, all bets are off, and you need to trace back to the main panel as mentioned. A bare wire should not be used for neutral, but best to check anyway.

 

[ZackN]

Just got back from a week out in the field.

Before I left I pulled the machine fuses out of the box.
Also noticed that it is rated for 30A, but this is 3phase, will the switch be able to handle 50A single phase? If not ill just strip out all internals and only use the enclosure.

Also recommendations on which terminals to test for voltage would be great.

You will have to check your wiring to see whether you have H-H-N or H-H-G. Someone may be able to chime in the best way to test this, but basically you need to determine whether the wire in question in your main panel is terminated at the neutral bar or the ground bar. Assuming the original wiring followed code standards, if it is bare or green it would be ground, and if it is white it would be neutral. Otherwise, all bets are off, and you need to trace back to the main panel as mentioned. A bare wire should not be used for neutral, but best to check anyway.

Thanks!

 

[ZackN]

You will have to check your wiring to see whether you have H-H-N or H-H-G. Someone may be able to chime in the best way to test this, but basically you need to determine whether the wire in question in your main panel is terminated at the neutral bar or the ground bar....

So just wondering if anyone out there has some good advice on how to test this plug and see how it is wired.
I can kill the breaker, then take the cover off and see if it has green or white or bare wire, but that is just the wire, and who knows what is really running through that wire.

I have a multi meter that I can use.
I am guessing that I check potential from top D shape to left slot, then top d slot to right slot. They should both be the same, 120v but out of phase correct?

Thanks for the help.