240V Electric Home Brewery Controller

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powermd

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Have any of you ordered one of this company's products?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6FEJTW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

After doing the math on what it would cost to build a scaled down version of Kal's controller for the purposes of firing my 5500W HLT element with PID control, I decided to purchase this one instead for just under $400. I would have easily spent at least $400 building one with similar functionality, and the workmanship would be iffy at best!

Not much info is available, but it seems you can control one element via PID, and switch to the other element which is controlled with a proportional dial. The idea being that for your boil kettle, you really don't need a PID.

I'll post an update once I get it installed and use it for a brew.
 
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That link is definitely a kegkits controller. If you look at the other products from "stir-plate" you'll see for sure.


I didn't look closely enough, now I see them.

http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=W&Category_Code=CNTRL

And now I know who Tom is, I just emailed him asking about customization.

Update: And now that I've read all about Tom Hargrave, I contacted Amazon to cancel my order. I guess i'll be building this thing myself after all.
 
Brumateur built mine for 400 and change 2 pids 2 pump switches and a potentiometer switch for the boil kettle . Works outstanding and was easy to run ImageUploadedByHome Brew1401912679.346582.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Did you finish your controller? Can you post a schematic and pictures?

Still working on it!

I have the box cut and powder coated, it looks nice but not quite as reflective as I wanted. My powder guy couldn't get the chrome to look right.

I have most of the innards, but have been dragging my feet on drilling/taping/installing components. I'll get there...
 
Still working on it!

I have the box cut and powder coated, it looks nice but not quite as reflective as I wanted. My powder guy couldn't get the chrome to look right.

I have most of the innards, but have been dragging my feet on drilling/taping/installing components. I'll get there...

Thanks, I still haven't bought anything yet. I'm still looking at the controllers on amazon.com and $417.95 seems to me like a good price. I just wish they would put some in Amazon Prime, that way I know I would have one in two days with free shipping! But now that it's getting into the Christmas season any upgrades will have to wait until January and I'll have to brew with propane for at least two more months.
 
I built an absolutely bare bones, no frills version of Kal's controller design. The parts from Auber rang in around $214 (plus international shipping). By bare bones I mean if you want to turn off the heater, you're unplugging the element from the controller =) The rest of the electronic parts were available from Home Depot. It works great! Some people would probably prefer more features though.

Electronics_zps4009503c.png


NOTE: I ended up ordering an Led Indicator/Buzzer and a switch from Auber later. I couldn't find any buzzers that ran at 120V/240V locally. The alarm feature on the PIDs is very useful. Also, my brewpot already had an 1/2" threaded opening for the temp. sensor so I chose that option.

My design, very roughly was:
-AWG #10 (3 wire + 1 ground wire, 240V) from the panel to a dryer outlet
-Dryer plug to the control panel (attached using the wire clamp that came with it)
-PID powered by half the voltage (one of the live wires and a neutral)
-Temperature probe XLR socket connected to PID via 3 wires
-PID driving the SSR via two wires
-SSR input connected to one of the live wires, output is connected to one side of a L6-30P outlet (other side is wired directly to the other live wire from the power source)
-LED across the outlet to show when the heater is live
-ground should be connected to the box, and it should also be connected to the L6-30P outlet so that the brew pot can be grounded

(I needed a step drill bit to drill the holes in the metal box.)

Just an example of a minimalist design to run the heater element.
 
I have one of the ones the OP posted at the beginning. Mine is the $189 110v RIMS version and it is much better than anything I could have built. I built a PVC cart and it works great. Yeah, I know my RIMS tube is upside down, I just quickly put it together for a photo. I do use the clamps to hold it and have had no problems. Mine shipped from a company in Huntsville, AL.

DSC_0008.jpg
 
That's it You have made up my mind. I'm going to start making these and selling them myself...I understand not everyone is handy but. The one posted above uses $50 in parts and can be thrown together in under an hour...The prices some are charging are just robbery in my opinion.
honestly if you built that cart your more than handy enough to learn to but that control box together.
 
That's it You have made up my mind. I'm going to start making these and selling them myself...I understand not everyone is handy but. The one posted above uses $50 in parts and can be thrown together in under an hour...The prices some are charging are just robbery in my opinion.
honestly if you built that cart your more than handy enough to learn to but that control box together.

Yeah, you are correct, it is not difficult. But $50 in parts...not likely. The PID alone is $30, then you need an SSR, heat sink, a box to hold it, a cord, a shut off knob and misc wiring.

I also assembled the switch and outlet. One half of the outlet is always on the the other, of course, is switched. I've built several STC1000 controllers which are not as difficult as a PID and SSR, and I've built quite a few sets of speakers with some complicated crossovers and I've also built a few tube amps. But, the one I bought is very well made and after a while, you just get tired of building stuff. You could build and sell these for less than the $189 I paid, but you do want to make a profit and your time has to be worth something...?
 
Yeah, you are correct, it is not difficult. I also assembled the switch and outlet. One half of the outlet is always on the the other, of course, is switched. I've built several STC1000 controllers which are not as difficult as a PID and SSR, and I've built quite a few sets of speakers with some complicated crossovers and I've also built a few tube amps. But, the one I bought is very well made and after a while, you just get tired of building stuff. You could build and sell these for less than the $189 I paid, but you do want to make a profit and your time has to be worth something...?

Yeah But I don't need $140 for an hours work...
And I have bought many of those my pin pids you can buy the better my pin td4 with manual mode for $20 shipped. The srr is $3 the heat sink is $4 the enclosure is$7 and the mushroom stop button is $1.98.... the plug and cord is maybe $5.... go ahead and open it up...I bet they used the my pin or fotek knockoff SSR (which are made in the same factory according to the markings on the back).
 
Yeah But I don't need $140 for an hours work...
And I have bought many of those my pin pids you can buy the better my pin td4 with manual mode for $20 shipped. The srr is $3 the heat sink is $4 the enclosure is$7 and the mushroom stop button is $1.98.... the plug and cord is maybe $5.... go ahead and open it up...I bet they used the my pin or fotek knockoff SSR (which are made in the same factory according to the markings on the back).

Yeah, the pid is definitely a mypin.
 
I have one of the ones the OP posted at the beginning. Mine is the $189 110v RIMS version and it is much better than anything I could have built. I built a PVC cart and it works great. Yeah, I know my RIMS tube is upside down, I just quickly put it together for a photo. I do use the clamps to hold it and have had no problems. Mine shipped from a company in Huntsville, AL.

Cool little "R2-D2" set-up there. Very cleaver!
 
Augiedoggy - go for it man!! The only thing that kept holding me back from ordering a prebuilt controller was the upfront cost for someone else's knowledge and know-how. Bells and whistles are great but I finally pieced together my first single PID, 2 pump, single 5500w outlet kit for $215 (I know I could have gone much cheaper, but we all have to start somewhere).

If the option to have a bare bones controller without some insane markup existed, I would have probably given someone else a few extra $$$. But the self guidance, asking for help on here, and part gathering will serve me well when I need to trouble shoot or build another "fancier" setup
 
Now that is a fair deal IMO.

He is selling them in ebay auctions right now with "no reserve". I just bought one and it should be here next week along with a false bottom i ordered. I thought it was a pretty good deal too so I jumped on it. You can definitely build a bit cheaper, but I sure can't make it that pretty...
 
I only wish the hose head control panel had inputs for three pumps and three elements .... my panel works fine but it would be nice to monitor things from anywhere in the house.

Fyi after doing a search for "brew controller" on eBay I see many much more reasonably priced and some more functional and better built than the HG panels....
Just goes to show you how strong marketing is... like in the beer business your product doesn't have to be superior if your marketing strategy is.
I guess its not unlike people feeling more comfortable eating a burger composed of 15% beef and 85% "pink mush" from mcdonalds vs going to the in dependant mom and pop diner...
 
What people have to understand about selling electric appliances is the liability involved. Sure, sell a bunch for $50 in profit per unit and do it without liability insurance. User then dies because they didn't use a gfci and the wife and her lawyer take your house. Get a quote for GLI that covers electric manufacturing. I dare you. Most of the markups you see include necessary overhead of a functional long term business and not a hobbyist that takes a reasonable salary from building a couple units.
 
What people have to understand about selling electric appliances is the liability involved. Sure, sell a bunch for $50 in profit per unit and do it without liability insurance. User then dies because they didn't use a gfci and the wife and her lawyer take your house. Get a quote for GLI that covers electric manufacturing. I dare you. Most of the markups you see include necessary overhead of a functional long term business and not a hobbyist that takes a reasonable salary from building a couple units.
I totally understand that. I am under the impression that's why places like high gravity are selling their electric control panels as "DIY" kits without the things like the plug mounted at the end of the cord so final assay and responsibility falls on the buyer.... it sure seems they don't have the insurance your talking about for this reason...
 
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