120v 20a Controller build advice

[moonjee88]

Hello, everyone! I'm new to homebrew talk but I've been brewing for about 2 years and it's time for an upgrade! I've been researching a DIY controller.
The setup I'm going for is a single vessel eBIAB, one pump for recirculation/counterflow chilling, 20a 120v power, 2250w heating element. I have a 20a circuit w/GFCI in my kitchen ready to go. I want a controller with that extra oomph beyond 15a with control of the element (independent of main power) and the pump. My research led me to this wiring diagram that covers the whole build. Thanks to doug293cz and Bart Mink for the diagram! It might be a blast from the past for you guys, I think it was posted a few years ago at this point.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19UR7b80pX73DlHD5bVrG_rqgMywqT6mz/view

Here is my parts list so far. The fuses and their holders are left out, see my questions below.

• Enclosure: Auber QBox1E w/ 40a heatsink
• PID: EZBoil 320 or Electric Brewing Supply 200 Series
• SSR: SRDA40 40a AC SSR plus a thermal pad
• Contactor: CN-PBC302-120V 2 pole
• Main Power Switch: KCD2 20a 125v Rocker Switch
• Element Power Switch: SW16 Yellow LED 2-way switch
• Pump Power Switch: SW16 Blue LED 2-way switch
• Temp Prob: Liquid Tight RTD Sensor, 2 in, Weldless Fitting, M14 Model: PT100-L50M14 with braided cable & RTD connector.
• Power cable plug (wall): 20 Amp 125-Volt NEMA 5-20P Straight Blade Plug
• Power inlet: 3-Prong 125-Volt NEMA L5-20P Flanged Power Input Inlet
• Power cable (controller) & heater connector: NEMA 20 Amp 125-Volt 3-Prong Locking Female Connector x2
• Heater outlet: 20-Amp 125-Volt NEMA L5-20R Flanged Mounting Locking Industrial Grade Single Outlet Receptacle
• Cable, 12/3 SJEOOW High Temp Portable Power Cable
• Pump outlet: NEMA 5-15 outlet

So I guess my questions are:

1. What fuses do I need, what holders are compatible with them, and what's a good source for them?
2. Which PID has better features and user experience? (the latter is more important to me)
3. Is that the right SSR to go with either of these PIDs?
4. Is there anything I am missing or have mismatched?

Thank you in advance!

 

[doug293cz]

Design looks good. You don't really need 2X 1A fuses - you can run the PID/EZBoil and a contactor coil off of the same 1A fuse. Two fuses and two branches will also work fine. Make sure the high current wire is 12AWG (design shows 14AWG which is correct for 15A load.)

Chugger style pumps are rated to draw ~1.4A and a 2250W element will draw 18.75W, for a total load of 20.15A, when the element is at 100% and pump is on. This could cause you problems if you spend much time at full power with the pump on.

1.) The tubular glass fuses are inexpensive and readily available. There are several common sizes, so need to make sure the holders match the fuse size. The automotive, blade style fuses are only rated up to 32V, so should not be used.

2.) I recommend the EZBoil over a PID. The control algorithm in an EZBoil just works, without the tuning required by PIDs. A commodity PID also doesn't provide the programmed step mashing capability, or timer functions (including delayed start) that the DSPR320 provides.

3.) The listed SSR will work with an EZBoil, or any PID that has SSR output.

4.) Other than lack of headroom on load current, I don't see any issues.

Brew on

 

[moonjee88]

Thanks for the reply! You sold me on the EZBoil. I was leaning that way anyway.

Would the EZBoil run the element at 100% in mash mode? I would only set it to 100% when rising to a boil then back it off a bit once I get there. I wouldn't be recirculating anymore at that point. I would have to just be careful with my approach so the pump is off at that time. I was hoping to get my hands on a Riptide if I could swing it but who knows when that will happen.

I was under the impression that the fuse holders had to match the load but since it's just size, that makes things easy.

 

[moonjee88]

I could go with a weaker element if it's safer but I'd like to keep it as high as possible.

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks for the reply! You sold me on the EZBoil. I was leaning that way anyway.

Would the EZBoil run the element at 100% in mash mode? I would only set it to 100% when rising to a boil then back it off a bit once I get there. I wouldn't be recirculating anymore at that point. I would have to just be careful with my approach so the pump is off at that time. I was hoping to get my hands on a Riptide if I could swing it but who knows when that will happen.

I was under the impression that the fuse holders had to match the load but since it's just size, that makes things easy.

The EZBoil will usually only run at 100% when heating strike water, or heating wort to a boil. As long as you don't run the pump at those times you should be ok.

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

You want every bit of that 2250 if you're trying to boil a 5 gallon batch.

 

[moonjee88]

You want every bit of that 2250 if you're trying to boil a 5 gallon batch.

I'm brewing 3.5-4 gallon batches and I will be making a jacket for my kettle as well. I figured that would be a good compromise for the time being. I might be able to get onto a 240v circuit but it would require a big investment in a substantial extension cord. It may still happen, but my house really isn't set up for it.

 

[Bobby_M]

That's plenty of power. The good news is that you can easily adapt the controller from 120v to 240 if you need to make larger batches. There's a good chance you can run the element full out and run the pump. Running 1% overcurrent can usually hold for a while. It's better to recirculate the water while you're heating as it gives the controller more of the average temperature.

 

[RufusBrewer]

I reccomend that you do some research and find out what else is on the breaker you are gogin to use. Remember, one breaker can provide power to several AC sockets and lights. In my garage, there is one breaker that feeds all the sockets in the garage, sockets outside AND two garage door openers.

Some times a breaker will feed sockets in another room.

 

[Bobby_M]

I reccomend that you do some research and find out what else is on the breaker you are gogin to use. Remember, one breaker can provide power to several AC sockets and lights. In my garage, there is one breaker that feeds all the sockets in the garage, sockets outside AND two garage door openers.

Some times a breaker will feed sockets in another room.

That's good advice.

 

[sicktght311]

Recently built a 3vessel 120v 20amp controller. See my thread below. Its been working great with the exception of some solder coming loose from the mini XLR connections. I need to wire in some more flexible wiring to the xlr plugs instead of the more rigid stuff i had been using. Currently using a 1650watt element to boil my 6-7gallon boils with no problem, but built it with the flexibility to run 2000-2200watt elements. My 25watt Mark II pump, and tan DC solar pump together draw under half an amp, so plenty of room for element power

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/critique-my-controller-wiring.689072/#post-9064093

 

[sicktght311]

Recently built a 3vessel 120v 20amp controller. See my thread below. Its been working great with the exception of some solder coming loose from the mini XLR connections. I need to wire in some more flexible wiring to the xlr plugs instead of the more rigid stuff i had been using. Currently using a 1650watt element to boil my 6-7gallon boils with no problem, but built it with the flexibility to run 2000-2200watt elements. My 25watt Mark II pump, and tan DC solar pump together draw under half an amp, so plenty of room for element power

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/critique-my-controller-wiring.689072/#post-9064093

And for reference, with my single 1650watt element, my boil vigor is a gentle rolling boil in 6-7 gallons of preboil volume, and enough to boil off .75 gallons in an hour, which to date in 3 years of brewing on the system has never produced any off flavors, including brewing with Pilsner malts. No insulation on the kettle as i found that reflectix really didnt make that big of a difference and just made it more difficult to clean the exterior of the kettle if there was anything that dripped.

 

[Climb]

If you ever do decide to run the pump and heating element at the same time; it would be a good idea to have the pump turn on first while the heating element is off. Once the pump is up to speed, then turn on the heating element. I am not sure if either controller would support this in an automatic way.
My concern is that the pump is mostly an inductive load, that will have a momentary current spike and this may trip your breaker if the heating element is drawing enough current when the pump turns on. The heating element is mostly a resistive load and will not cause a current spike when it is turned on.

 

[GoeHaarden]

single 1650watt element, my boil vigor is a gentle rolling boil in 6-7 gallons of preboil volume, and enough to boil off .75 gallons in an hour

How long does that take to get to a boil?

 

[Bobby_M]

I have a heating time chart with various element wattage and water volumes at the bottom of this page: Heating Elements

1650W with 6 gallons will reach a boil in about 80 minutes starting at 70F.

 

[sicktght311]

How long does that take to get to a boil?

Heating from Sparge to around 205 takes about 30 minutes (i'm usually around 150ish degrees when it gets to the boil kettle from the sparge through heat losses and a cold kettle)
Those last few degrees from 205 to 212 take another 15-20. You plateau as you start to hit a boil and those last few degrees take more energy and time to reach boil. Once i hit 210/211 and i start to see a good simmer i start my boil timer and throw my hops in as the extra 5 minutes or so to get to the full boil strength has made no difference in boil off or hop utilization

I'm upgrading to a 2200watt element in my HLT and Boil Kettle in the next couple of months as i rebuild my brewery, so i'll report back on times and boil strength once i get it all up and running. I had an oil burner puffback that destroyed my basement so everything is getting fully rebuilt.