DPST CP Kill Switch

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CorgiBrew

CorgiBrew

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I've read some threads where a DPST switch is used after the SSR to kill both hot legs to an element. I'm thinking of doing something different: two hot wires coming into my CP go to a 30A DPST, then to my distribution block. The neutral comes into the CP and goes straight to the distribution block. My thinking is that I can use the DPST to kill power to the entire CP. Any comments? (Obviously there's a lot more to my wiring scheme than this).
 
I didn't want to do it that way because I didn't want to kill power to my PID, I liked to have that on all the time (when the CP is plugged in that is) so I can change values, then turn the element on.
 
conpewter said:
I didn't want to do it that way because I didn't want to kill power to my PID, I liked to have that on all the time (when the CP is plugged in that is) so I can change values, then turn the element on.
Click to expand...

Makes sense; still, I'd like to have a master kill switch for my whole setup just in case (and nearer at hand than my breaker). I will also have a selector switch between the PID and the SSR's, so I can switch both of the SSR's off with that and leave the PID running (assuming the SSR's are functioning normally, of course!)
 
The 50A breaker is in a panel on the wall near my brewery that I could use as the master kill for the whole system if necessary.

But, I do have a kill switch for the 240V path to the element implemented with a 2-pole contactor and SPST switch that sends 120V through the contactor coil. I like that little switch better than touching a big DPST switch (with my potentially wet hands) that has huge amps and current flowing through it.

My kill-switch/contactor is actually at the very start of the 240V path, in front of a single SSR. (only one SSR needed for functionality, and the contactor is the killer of both legs when I want to shut it off completely.)
 
I have a DPST switch that controls my 240V outlet, like this:

240V_Outlet_and_Switch.JPG

And I use another one inside my box to kill the power to the SSRs (not the PID, pump, etc).

This is the Home Depot switch that I use

Leviton_30A_240V_DPST_Switch.jpg
 
passedpawn said:
I have a DPST switch that controls my 240V outlet, like this:

240V_Outlet_and_Switch.JPG

And I use another one inside my box to kill the power to the SSRs (not the PID, pump, etc).

This is the Home Depot switch that I use

Leviton_30A_240V_DPST_Switch.jpg
Click to expand...

Hi passedpawn, actually, I was originally inspired by an earlier of your posts and got one of those nifty waterproof switch covers. Sweet!
 
Walker said:
The 50A breaker is in a panel on the wall near my brewery that I could use as the master kill for the whole system if necessary.

But, I do have a kill switch for the 240V path to the element implemented with a 2-pole contactor and SPST switch that sends 120V through the contactor coil. I like that little switch better than touching a big DPST switch (with my potentially wet hands) that has huge amps and current flowing through it.

My kill-switch/contactor is actually at the very start of the 240V path, in front of a single SSR. (only one SSR needed for functionality, and the contactor is the killer of both legs when I want to shut it off completely.)
Click to expand...

I thought about using a second SSR or a contactor to kill both legs, but, at least for this build, the DPST switch upstream of everything seemed simpler and gives me that happy feeling of knowing it's all off when I hear the switch "click". I'm using a waterproof switch cover, like passedpawn, so hopefully my potentially wet hands won't be an issue.
 
CorgiBrew said:
I thought about using a second SSR or a contactor to kill both legs, but, at least for this build, the DPST switch upstream of everything seemed simpler and gives me that happy feeling of knowing it's all off when I hear the switch "click". I'm using a waterproof switch cover, like passedpawn, so hopefully my potentially wet hands won't be an issue.
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me. I had originally planned to do the same thing with a DPST switch, but the contactor ended up being the cheaper than a water-proof DPST that could handle 240V/25A and I had plenty of space in the box, so I went that way.

It's actually kind of geeky-cool. When I flip on the switch to activate the contactor, there is a very audible:

CLACK-hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..........

Useless noise, but sort of like revving the engine on a harley. :rockin:
 
Walker said:
Sounds good to me. I had originally planned to do the same thing with a DPST switch, but the contactor ended up being the cheaper than a water-proof DPST that could handle 240V/25A and I had plenty of space in the box, so I went that way.

It's actually kind of geeky-cool. When I flip on the switch to activate the contactor, there is a very audible:

CLACK-hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..........

Useless noise, but sort of like revving the engine on a harley. :rockin:
Click to expand...

Nice. In my original plan, I was going to use contactors for various purposes because I was thinking of separating my CP from the high voltage stuff, using light wiring to connect the two. In the end, though, it was easier to stuff it all in one box. Next build (assuming I survive this build!) I may change my mind yet again and get me some of those bad boys! :D
 

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