Ok, normally I just lurk on here and get answers from the rest of you. Hopefully, someone will have this problem and learn this without doing it the hard way.
I have gone through two different three burner models, one from campchef and King kooker. I originally bought the Campchef and had problems with lightning it and getting it to cook at a high temperature. It would start out with a high flame, then moments later the flame would go down to a 'warm' setting (without changing the knob). Finally after much complaining, I got an email back from campchef saying I needed to only turn the propane to 1/4 turn. This worked for a while. But then same problem.
If you just want to know how to fix it just skip the story down to the
**** SKIP TO HERE **** part.
Then when it did work, the 35,00 BTU burners were not enough to get the wort boiling on my 10 gallon batches. Worked ok on 5 gallon batches, but still not to my liking.
So I took it back to the store where I got it for a refund and replaced it with the King Kooker model which had 55K BTU burners... much better. Good enough for a 10 gal batch. (won't win a boil race, but gives you a few minutes to drink a homebrew during the warm up).
Problem is, it had the same problem too. I always believed the problem to be in the regulator. Because when I spoke with Campchef, they explained it was a 'safety regulator' and it would shut down if opened more than 1/4 turn on the propane bottle. Well the King Kooker had an adjustable regulator (1-5 lbs.)
So when this started to act up the same way I had a fit! I was moment away from starting a delish Oatmeal Nut Brown and it woulnd't go to full throttle and was barely warming it.
In my anger, 20 minutes from 5pm (closing time for local propane accessory businesses) I wrenched off the regulator with 'great vengeance and furious anger' those who try and oppose my beermaking (pulp fiction reference of course) and ran to the house of hose nearby. They sent me to a propane store around the corner.
So I get there, explain to the guy what was happening and he tells me in no uncertain terms that I 'need to learn to use my regulator'. Being a lifelong propane user on gas grills, heaters, everything that hooks to propane I just about threw the part at him. I think he could see the desperation in my eyes because he told me to relax and he explains this everyday.
****START READING HERE IF YOU SKIPPED****
He explained, not only have they made the regulator with a safety flow check valve in them, but the new 'acme' nut has another safety flow valve in it. I'm talking about the adult friendly kind that allow the user to tighten with their hand. Like a big plastic nut that screws onto the tank. He said on the triple or double burners, even 'wicking' the 2nd burner on while having the other burner already going was enough to set off the way sensitive safety valve in the acme nut (unsure real name of said nut).
He explained the proper way to start the grill/burner was to hook up gas with all connections off. Then turn on the regulator adjustment (if there is an off needle valve on the burner of course). Then slowly open the propane tank main valve 1/4 of a turn and quickly turn it off. You should be able to hear the gas flowing into the tubing going to the burners when this happens. Then do the same thing again. He advised me to put my other hand on the acme nut while doing this. he said after 4-5 times, I would feel the safety valve in the nut "click" when the line and tank were equalized.
Then I was to light the grill/burner by turning the needle valve on slowly (not wicking it open like I had previously done). I went home and followed his directions. Come to find out, it did click, I could hear it and feel it!
Then I slowly lit the burner as he suggested. Well the burner lit and went to so high I actually didn't warm my 10 gallon batch with it all the way up because it was shooting flames past the edges of my 15 gallon brew pot. The water warmed up faster than I have ever had it warm. I couldn't believe how well it worked.
One thing I didn't mention, was that while I was in there and after he had convinced me that the acme nut was the source of my problems, I bought a POL nut from him that can be done by hand that screws on the inside of the propane tank (like old ones use to). It even has a nifty little hand place so no wrench is needed. Apparently, the one I bought doesn't have this extra safety valve. Even though I didn't use it, I'm sure I'll use it on my trailer since I take the same stove camping and hook it up through 25 feet of propane tubing to get rid of the extra propane tank that people normally take (since there is already two 7 gal tanks on the trailer).
Anywho, if you're having a problem with your burner not lighting correctly, or not staying lit or on high flame I would bet dollars to donoughts that this is the problem. Basically he said it was too high of a flow without giving the line time to equalize and prevent the 2nd check valve in the acme nut from tripping.
Seems to work for me.... go figure.
I have gone through two different three burner models, one from campchef and King kooker. I originally bought the Campchef and had problems with lightning it and getting it to cook at a high temperature. It would start out with a high flame, then moments later the flame would go down to a 'warm' setting (without changing the knob). Finally after much complaining, I got an email back from campchef saying I needed to only turn the propane to 1/4 turn. This worked for a while. But then same problem.
If you just want to know how to fix it just skip the story down to the
**** SKIP TO HERE **** part.
Then when it did work, the 35,00 BTU burners were not enough to get the wort boiling on my 10 gallon batches. Worked ok on 5 gallon batches, but still not to my liking.
So I took it back to the store where I got it for a refund and replaced it with the King Kooker model which had 55K BTU burners... much better. Good enough for a 10 gal batch. (won't win a boil race, but gives you a few minutes to drink a homebrew during the warm up).
Problem is, it had the same problem too. I always believed the problem to be in the regulator. Because when I spoke with Campchef, they explained it was a 'safety regulator' and it would shut down if opened more than 1/4 turn on the propane bottle. Well the King Kooker had an adjustable regulator (1-5 lbs.)
So when this started to act up the same way I had a fit! I was moment away from starting a delish Oatmeal Nut Brown and it woulnd't go to full throttle and was barely warming it.
In my anger, 20 minutes from 5pm (closing time for local propane accessory businesses) I wrenched off the regulator with 'great vengeance and furious anger' those who try and oppose my beermaking (pulp fiction reference of course) and ran to the house of hose nearby. They sent me to a propane store around the corner.
So I get there, explain to the guy what was happening and he tells me in no uncertain terms that I 'need to learn to use my regulator'. Being a lifelong propane user on gas grills, heaters, everything that hooks to propane I just about threw the part at him. I think he could see the desperation in my eyes because he told me to relax and he explains this everyday.
****START READING HERE IF YOU SKIPPED****
He explained, not only have they made the regulator with a safety flow check valve in them, but the new 'acme' nut has another safety flow valve in it. I'm talking about the adult friendly kind that allow the user to tighten with their hand. Like a big plastic nut that screws onto the tank. He said on the triple or double burners, even 'wicking' the 2nd burner on while having the other burner already going was enough to set off the way sensitive safety valve in the acme nut (unsure real name of said nut).
He explained the proper way to start the grill/burner was to hook up gas with all connections off. Then turn on the regulator adjustment (if there is an off needle valve on the burner of course). Then slowly open the propane tank main valve 1/4 of a turn and quickly turn it off. You should be able to hear the gas flowing into the tubing going to the burners when this happens. Then do the same thing again. He advised me to put my other hand on the acme nut while doing this. he said after 4-5 times, I would feel the safety valve in the nut "click" when the line and tank were equalized.
Then I was to light the grill/burner by turning the needle valve on slowly (not wicking it open like I had previously done). I went home and followed his directions. Come to find out, it did click, I could hear it and feel it!
Then I slowly lit the burner as he suggested. Well the burner lit and went to so high I actually didn't warm my 10 gallon batch with it all the way up because it was shooting flames past the edges of my 15 gallon brew pot. The water warmed up faster than I have ever had it warm. I couldn't believe how well it worked.
One thing I didn't mention, was that while I was in there and after he had convinced me that the acme nut was the source of my problems, I bought a POL nut from him that can be done by hand that screws on the inside of the propane tank (like old ones use to). It even has a nifty little hand place so no wrench is needed. Apparently, the one I bought doesn't have this extra safety valve. Even though I didn't use it, I'm sure I'll use it on my trailer since I take the same stove camping and hook it up through 25 feet of propane tubing to get rid of the extra propane tank that people normally take (since there is already two 7 gal tanks on the trailer).
Anywho, if you're having a problem with your burner not lighting correctly, or not staying lit or on high flame I would bet dollars to donoughts that this is the problem. Basically he said it was too high of a flow without giving the line time to equalize and prevent the 2nd check valve in the acme nut from tripping.
Seems to work for me.... go figure.
