No temp control 240v keggle help...

I'm looking to do an ultra simple electric keggle from my existing keggle. I already have my valve and pickup tube installed. I'm looking to add a 240v heating element with a toggle switch wired into a drop from my garage control panel. Are there any issues with sending 240v through a light switch to control my heater? I've seen all these fancy rigs online with SSRs and PIDs but I just want to boil and when it boils too much turn the switch on and off to control it...

Forgot to add my picture

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As long as the switch is rated for the correct amps/volts, no problem. That's might be a pretty miserable brew day though. But if you size your batches and element close you should be fine going full bore.

iijakii said:

As long as the switch is rated for the correct amps/volts, no problem. That's might be a pretty miserable brew day though. But if you size your batches and element close you should be fine going full bore.

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I guess I could always do a 2 step system using 120v heating element to maintain my boil. I dont plan to do more than 5 gallons on the electric system. Ill stick to propane for that...

I've personally never used a 4500W element, but maybe someone can chime in on if that's OK to run wide open on a 5gal batch. A 5500W is definitely overkill. I used to have a 3000w (dual 120v) system that worked well also.

I agree that you don't need temperature control for a boiler (and pretty much can't have it anyway, as the boiling point is fixed). I would recommend something like this instead of a simple switch, though. It costs very little and lets you control the degree of boil without riding a switch the whole time.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=332

You could wire your light switch to switch the element between 120v and 240v. I remember seeing @bobby_m having something like this rigged up on a youtube vid for on demand hot water through his rims tube.

[edit] A little research shows that 1375 watts probably isn't enough to maintain a boil. It seems 2000w is the minimum to maintain a 5 gal boil.

thekraken said:

[edit] A little research shows that 1375 watts probably isn't enough to maintain a boil. It seems 2000w is the minimum to maintain a 5 gal boil.

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It looks like 2000W 240V elements are available, I guess with that route I could toggle back and forth as necessary... the more I think about it though, it may just be easier to put a SSR on with the controller.

Stop. You're chasing a simplicity that isn't practical. Back to JRcrilly's post.. Look at this device: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=332

3 steps to success:
1. Put either a GFCI 240v/30a breaker in your main panel or wire a GFCI spa panel inline with the wire before you get to your brew location. Either one but don't skip this step.
2. Make a box that has http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=332 in it and also wire this in http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEVITON-303...581092?hash=item4d259dcfa4:g:1SUAAOSw5ZBWQUSr Don't forget the heat sink for the SSR : http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_48&products_id=244
3. Use a 5500 watt element.


All of this stuff will probably run you $100 or so plus the GFCI solution. Trying to run a powerful element on/off with a switch is like controlling a propane boil with a match and fire extinguisher.

+1 w/ jrcrilly and Bobby_M

I use the same basic potentiometer setup. It's cheap, and let's you dial the boil down similar to how you would on your stove. A basic switch would probably not only be a huge pain, but a massive boil over waiting to happen (at best).