Swapping Heating Elements (wire question)

So the headache or saga continues with my elements. I bought a tri-clover adapter for each of my elements that are already housed in a box type setup, but one adapter appears to have a longer ferrel than the other making it impossible to fit my wavy element through the weldless bulkhead. One does fit though, but the adapter came from another supplier. I could return this part and lose $10 shipping and re-buy spending another $15 on shipping or buy a straight element from Amazon. Either way, I'm spending more money but the holes are drilled in my kettles and I'm committed to tri-clover, at least here.

I've been reading the forums about bad crimps and such and now I'm concerned. Looking at my current element connection, can I just unscrew the connectors and screw into the straight camco heating element or do I need to wire this up again? I didn't assemble these elements.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1429662182.696844.jpg

If you just want to replace that element, sure, unscrew the Line and Neutral wires there (white and black), remove heating element, replace, re-connect ring terminals.

Are your TC ferrules 1.5" or 2"?

passedpawn said:

If you just want to replace that element, sure, unscrew the Line and Neutral wires there (white and black), remove heating element, replace, re-connect ring terminals.

Are your TC ferrules 1.5" or 2"?

Click to expand...

They're 2". Stilldragon.com has this rad weldless bulkhead fitting that is 2". The curvy elements slide in and out fine; however, the ferrule bought from a member here (one of them) were from Stout tanks I believe, the other one came from moonshine distiller. That one has to be longer because I did a dry run with the other and it fit fine. Unfortunately, I cannot measure because I have left the element and weld less fitting at a brewery for now.

I should just lady up and wire something, but I read horror stories here and stall.

FWIW, this is what I intend to replace my element with:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RD7MK0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

This is what I currently have:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPG4LI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

$7 more for the stainless base
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

Looking at the pictures of your crimps, they look uniform which tells me they probably used a dedicated crimp tool. The connections should last for many brews to come.

ChocolateMaltyBalls said:

$7 more for the stainless base
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

Looking at the pictures of your crimps, they look uniform which tells me they probably used a dedicated crimp tool. The connections should last for many brews to come.

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notice those straight foldbck elements are actually shorter than the ripples and are usually advertised as low watt density and are about 100-120w per square inch vs 40-50 for the ripple...
im not really sure how camco rates their elements and advertises them as ULWD when other distributers who sell the same generic elements sell them as lwd... To me it only makes sense that you need more surface area to be ULWD and the entire length of my 4500w ripple element short of about an inch at the base emanates heat so how can a much shorter element made of the same material and same wattage be the same watt density? you have the same amount of energy being released through a smaller surface area with the straight ones so its going to be hotter at the surface and a higher watt density.

ChocolateMaltyBalls said:

$7 more for the stainless base
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

Looking at the pictures of your crimps, they look uniform which tells me they probably used a dedicated crimp tool. The connections should last for many brews to come.

Click to expand...

SOLD! Thank you, I was literally about to order tonight.

augiedoggy said:

notice those straight foldbck elements are actually shorter than the ripples and are usually advertised as low watt density and are about 100-120w per square inch vs 40-50 for the ripple...
im not really sure how camco rates their elements and advertises them as ULWD when other distributers who sell the same generic elements sell them as lwd... To me it only makes sense that you need more surface area to be ULWD and the entire length of my 4500w ripple element short of about an inch at the base emanates heat so how can a much shorter element made of the same material and same wattage be the same watt density? you have the same amount of energy being released through a smaller surface area with the straight ones so its going to be hotter at the surface and a higher watt density.

Click to expand...

So get the one linked above? Yeah?

Hello said:

SOLD! Thank you, I was literally about to order tonight.


So get the one linked above? Yeah?

Click to expand...

Honestly If it were me I would get the hardware to mount an ULWD element. brew hardware also sells that.
I have just read too many complaints of scorching here with others. Some people even manage to scorch there wort with ulwd ripple elements somehow
those straight elements are better suited for rims tube applications but I'm sure someone who is using one will chime in with feedback.

augiedoggy said:

Honestly If it were me I would get the hardware to mount an ULWD element. brew hardware also sells that.
I have just read too many complaints of scorching here with others. Some people even manage to scorch there wort with ulwd ripple elements somehow
those straight elements are better suited for rims tube applications but I'm sure someone who is using one will chime in with feedback.

Click to expand...

What do you mean about mounting hardware? Do you mean not using the box and just putting everything into an element enclosure like this one (I just sold):
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=524041

My intent was to slide out the ripple unit and slide in the straight unit into the box itself. I am using this for a HERMs system and this particular unit will go into the HLT. I read about scorching with the straight units and I feel like it would be safer to use in just water than in my wort. My ripple unit will be used in the BK.

Hello said:

What do you mean about mounting hardware? Do you mean not using the box and just putting everything into an element enclosure like this one (I just sold):
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=524041

My intent was to slide out the ripple unit and slide in the straight unit into the box itself. I am using this for a HERMs system and this particular unit will go into the HLT. I read about scorching with the straight units and I feel like it would be safer to use in just water than in my wort. My ripple unit will be used in the BK.

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sorry I meant the mounting hardware to allow the ripple...
If this is just for a HLT and water than the lwd elements would work fine...I use a straight one with a brass base myself listed below but the coating is peaaling off the element so I wouldnt recommend it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4500-Watt-E...4704524-NEW-/200909059093?hash=item2ec71cf415

augiedoggy said:

sorry I meant the mounting hardware to allow the ripple...
If this is just for a HLT and water than the lwd elements would work fine...I use a straight one with a brass base myself listed below but the coating is peaaling off the element so I wouldnt recommend it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4500-Watt-E...4704524-NEW-/200909059093?hash=item2ec71cf415

Click to expand...

Oh! Well that is kind of the problem.
The ripple element I have today won't fit through the weld less bulkhead (2" TC) and the 2" TC adapter. The ferrule on the second adapter I have is too long. The other adapter I bought came from Stout Tanks but they have not responded to my request to purchase another; the item is not on their site. So I'm stuck with changing the element itself or not using TC fittings on the HLT. I want to be able to easily remove the element so I picked TC fittings just for that part of my setup.

I'd love to keep the ripple element, but if I can't get my hands on an adapter that has the same length ferrule as the one I bought off a man here, I have to go another direction.

Hello said:

Oh! Well that is kind of the problem.
The ripple element I have today won't fit through the weld less bulkhead (2" TC) and the 2" TC adapter. The ferrule on the second adapter I have is too long. The other adapter I bought came from Stout Tanks but they have not responded to my request to purchase another; the item is not on their site. So I'm stuck with changing the element itself or not using TC fittings on the HLT. I want to be able to easily remove the element so I picked TC fittings just for that part of my setup.

I'd love to keep the ripple element, but if I can't get my hands on an adapter that has the same length ferrule as the one I bought off a man here, I have to go another direction.

Click to expand...

Question, why would you every need to remove the element on your hot liquor tank? all its heating is water right? I have never had a need to remove mine?
that said a lot of people say the 2" tc element setups from brewhardware work fine with the ripple elements...

augiedoggy said:

Question, why would you every need to remove the element on your hot liquor tank? all its heating is water right? I have never had a need to remove mine?
that said a lot of people say the 2" tc element setups from brewhardware work fine with the ripple elements...

Click to expand...

Brewhardware isn't weldless. I probably won't need to worry about the removal of the element in the HLT, but I cannot use my current element because the ferrule on the adapter is too long. Stout got back to me, I'm waiting for them to invoice me and send me another. I'm going to try that.

I'm just trying to find a solution to get the ripple element through the 2" TC weldless bulkhead fitting AND the adapter. The two together with the adapter I got from moonshine distillers is too long.