The start of another HERMS

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JuanMoore

Getting the banned back together
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
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After tons of reading here, and slowly collecting pieces, I finally started building my HERMS. It's not pretty, but I hope it will eventually brew some tasty beer. I'm doing this on almost no budget, using stuff I already have around my shop, and scavenging a lot of parts. A little more of the "rustic" look as opposed to the bling I see on so many beautiful systems here. Thanks to all of the DIY'ers here on HBT for all of the great ideas and inspiration so far.

It all started when a client gave me a 47' long roll of 1/2" soft copper, and the next day I scored 3 sanke kegs. The HLT and MLT wll both be bottom draining, and the BK will have a side drain with a pick-up tube for whirlpooling. Here's the copper roughly formed for the HEX-
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This is the inside of the HLT. The MLT looks identical inside. I water tested both vessels, and the deadspace is only about 1 tablespoon.
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This is what the bottom looks like. I filled the rigid copper with sand and used a conduit bender to bend it to shape. After installing it I tried to tweak the bend and ended up putting a kink in it. I'll probably replace it with some 45's rather than the bent piece.
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I learned my lesson on the HLT, and used 45's instead of trying to bend the pipe for the MLT. I only had one elbow, so I used a T and a plug for now. I might get an elbow to replace it with just to limit the nooks and crannies for stuff to hide in.
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The BK is pretty straight forward so far, just a beat up old sanke with the top cut off and a ball valve / pick-up tube added.
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I picked up a remnant of perforated SS at a local shop. The holes are a little bigger than I'd like (1/8") and the spacing is a little wide, but at $10 for enough to make 3 false bottoms I figured it was worth a shot. I decided to keep things simple with a full diameter two piece FB that wedges into place.
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Here's what it looks like installed. It's very stable, and doesn't move unless the center tabs are pulled upwards.
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Here's the start of a thermowell and sight gauge. I have a piece of 3/8" pyrex tube that I plan on attatching with a compression fitting, but I'm worried it might be too fragile for my rough and tumble rig.
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I think I'll use this old Dewalt RAS stand as the brew rig stand. It's a little taller than I'd like, so I'll probably shorten the legs some.
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I've ordered some cam-lock fittings, and am looking for a pump. I'm still trying to figure out If I can go electric in my current brew location, or if I should just stick with my current propane burners. I'm sure I'll be asking a bunch of elec. questions of all you knowledgeable HBT'ers soon. It will most likely be slow going, but I'll continue to update this thread as I make progress. Any and all comments, critiques and suggestions are welcome.
 
Awesome start! This is sort of the direction I'm going to be going soon (I hope), and it's nice to see something done more on my budget.

Can you give some more detail on the connections into the HLT & MLT? What parts did you use to make it secure in the sanke neck?

Keep up the good work!
 
How did you seal the Sanke openning on your bottom drain? Got any close up pics? I have an extra keg I'd like to convert.

Close ups really won't show you anything, but I'll dissasemble one of them and post some pics tomorrow. I used a 1/2" male copper fitting, two SS washers that I modified the shapes of slightly, part of the spear, and two o-rings. It took quite a bit of fiddling with all manor of plumbing parts before I finally found something that worked.
 
Noob question...with a bottom draining HLT what do you use as your heating element? Can't use a propane burner can you? Wouldn't it damage the copper fittings? I assume this is not an issue for the MLT since you are not applying heat to it, correct?
 
Noob question...with a bottom draining HLT what do you use as your heating element? Can't use a propane burner can you? Wouldn't it damage the copper fittings? I assume this is not an issue for the MLT since you are not applying heat to it, correct?

I hope to go electric, but if I stick with gas the soldered connections may become a problem. If so, I could use the bent pipe and put a compression to MPT fitting on either end. And you're correct, I don't plan on applying any heat to the MLT, so it's just the HLT that would be a concern.
 
Got it. I am looking to go AG and have a Sanke to use as either a HLT or MLT. Don't know if I should use it for the HLT and try and find another sanke for MLT, or buy a cooler for the MLT. Any thoughts?
 
I got an elbow to replace the T fitting, so I took some pics to show how I created a seal for the drains on the HLT and MLT. The pics show things being assembled to the top part of the sanke dip tube assembly for clarity, but it actually needs to be installed in the keg with the o-ring and retaining clip before the pipe fittings and other parts go in, otherwise they interfere with instalation of the retaining ring. If you used a 2" snap ring instead of the sanke retaining ring, you could probably do it either way.

Here are all of the parts laid out. From left to right; threaded copper fitting, SS washer, sanke o-ring, top part of sanke dip tube assembly, sanke retaining ring, rubber washer, SS washer, o-ring, brass elbow, threaded copper fitting-
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On the insde I used a standard 1/2" MPT solder fitting, and ground off the solder end to the hex part in order to minimize dead space. Here is the fitting before and after-
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The fitting then fits inside a SS washer with the top edge chamfered-
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So that it will mate better with the inside of the top portion of the sanke dip-tube assembly-
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Here's what it looks like in place-
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Here you can see how much dead space there will be on the other side (not much)-
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On the other side I used a rubber washer for 1 1/4" drain pipes. It sits just inside the lip where the dip-tube would sit. This is soon to be replaced by a properly sized silicone o-ring-
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I then ground down the diameter of a large SS washer until it fit inside the same lip, so that it would compress the rubber and form a tight seal-
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An o-ring goes on the threaded insert for the elbow to compress against-
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The ridge on the cast elbow interferes slightly with the sanke neck, so a little flat was sanded in one side of the interior angle-
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And here is the finished product with a threaded copper fitting installed-
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