Do you need a 1 off Stainless part built for your system? Let's discuss it.

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Great, I was looking for a stainless TC part solution, but it looks like there may be a bag solution which will allow me to use a more standard TC fitting and a custom bag.

As to not hijack, wilserbrewer, can you PM me details on what you would suggest for a 10g Spike kettle with a TC port near the top? maybe a pic?

wilserbrewer said:
Actually I have made quite a few bags with the side seam left open several inches where it is snugged up below a side port, then wraps up and over the kettle rim and is then secured around the outside of the kettle with draw string and cord lock.
Click to expand...
 
Jaybird said:
Gotcha? @Dolomieu Tell me what every fitting is. Barbed? FNPT full couplings? half couplings? MNPT fittings? TC? Yes I can do that. No problem.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

I updated the drawing a bit. It can be a barb or tube(what ever size tube you use for the tc blow off that's in the mail). The bards/tubes only need to be long enough to attach the standard 1/2in silicone tubing. This will make it adjustable and easier to ship. The part that's not a barb/tube, will be a grommeted hole for an airlock. Also I'm thinking it would be nice to have that seal around the edge too.

I guess it would be best described as a liquid trap for cold crashing. Let me know what you're think cost wise.
 
Dolomieu said:
Here is a drawing. I'm pretty sure it's not an original idea, but it would be much cleaner than the diy version.

Edit: alternatively, instead of using a long tube of stainless on the in side, it could just be a barb or tube to attach another length of silicone tubing. Making that adjustable.
Click to expand...

That is awesome!!! signs me up for two of them!
 
Dolomieu said:
Pics
Click to expand...

What do you think about them being set up with a full couplings on both sides then you can use barbed fittings, pass through compression for stainless racking cane, camlock on both top and bottom or where ever you wanted a part it just screws in. I like the grommet side as that is cheap and easy to install. Let me put pen to paper and get a real honest cost for all parts. The lids need to be laser cut to be perfect so I need to do a little work in CAD there.

I will have some cost breakdowns in a couple days, If there is more interest I can laser cut more parts and get the costs down a little per unit. I did see someone else chime in that was up for a couple. Let me get to work on this for you.

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
What do you think about them being set up with a full couplings on both sides then you can use barbed fittings, pass through compression for stainless racking cane, camlock on both top and bottom or where ever you wanted a part it just screws in. I like the grommet side as that is cheap and easy to install. Let me put pen to paper and get a real honest cost for all parts. The lids need to be laser cut to be perfect so I need to do a little work in CAD there.



I will have some cost breakdowns in a couple days, If there is more interest I can laser cut more parts and get the costs down a little per unit. I did see someone else chime in that was up for a couple. Let me get to work on this for you.



Cheers

Jay
Click to expand...


I'd be interested in something like this. I'd like some volume to allow for top cropping yeast at blowoff out of a 1/2 barrel ssbrewtech conical.
 
Dcpcooks said:
I'd be interested in something like this. I'd like some volume to allow for top cropping yeast at blowoff out of a 1/2 barrel ssbrewtech conical.
Click to expand...

This is for my 14gal ssbrewtech conical. Some times I'm on the road and want the brewpi to cold crash, but don't because I'm not there to baby sit the blow off and stop suck back. I thought about the top cropping too, but that would just be a bonus for me.
 
Jaybird said:
What do you think about them being set up with a full couplings on both sides then you can use barbed fittings, pass through compression for stainless racking cane, camlock on both top and bottom or where ever you wanted a part it just screws in. I like the grommet side as that is cheap and easy to install. Let me put pen to paper and get a real honest cost for all parts. The lids need to be laser cut to be perfect so I need to do a little work in CAD there.

I will have some cost breakdowns in a couple days, If there is more interest I can laser cut more parts and get the costs down a little per unit. I did see someone else chime in that was up for a couple. Let me get to work on this for you.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

Couplers would be cool though I don't really use cam locks or anything like that in my blow off tube assembly. I just figured what ever would hole the 1/2 in silicone tubing would work. That said, I'm pretty open as long as we aren't adding cost for the sake of adding cost. 3 pass through compression fittings would probably get us there too.
 
Jaybird said:
I might be able to tap you a couple if you need them. Drilling and taping in stainless is a difficult but I think I can do it. Do you want them tapped straight threads I assume and starting from the gasket side? I'll PM you some details.


Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

I could use one of these as well please (2" tri-clover cap drilled and tapped 1/2 female pipe thread)
 
Dolomieu said:
Pics
Click to expand...

Couldn't you just use this jar with an S-Bubble Airlock?
WAi8eq2.jpg


That would prevent the suck-back, and would give the blow-off somewhere to fall.
 
BeardedBrews said:
Couldn't you just use this jar with an S-Bubble Airlock?
WAi8eq2.jpg


That would prevent the suck-back, and would give the blow-off somewhere to fall.
Click to expand...

I could and I could just buy beer... I won't say that this isn't overkill, it most certainly is. Probably wont even fill the air lock though, or have the center piece in it. It will just keep things out of the jar.

If you can image though, I can pull a quick sample, cold crash while on the road, dump trub, collect yeast, or even transfer to keg while paying no mind to my blow off tube situation. Also when i do take a sample, the CO2 in the jar will be what goes back up. If set up the long interior tubes correctly the worst that will happen is that the liquid sucks back to the other jar and then bubbles away like that water pipe you used in college.
 
Dolomieu said:
If you can image though, I can pull a quick sample, cold crash while on the road, dump trub, collect yeast, or even transfer to keg while paying no mind to my blow off tube situation. Also when i do take a sample, the CO2 in the jar will be what goes back up.
Click to expand...

I 100% see where you're coming from, all I'm suggesting is that since you're adding an air-lock grommet, submerging the outlet from your blowoff tube is redundant.

Suck-Back is a problem with the 3-piece locks, but if you use the S-Bubble variety then that isn't an issue. All that you're left with is a way to deal with krausen going down the tube, and having the big open jar gives a great place for that to run into.

The other advantage to this approach is on Jay's side. He just has to weld a single 1/2" barb to a canning jar lid, and then drill and grommet for the airlock. The same lid would work for any size jar.

Actually, he could incorporate this lid onto the end of that $15 conical SS Blow-Off Arm that he made. Then you just slip a canning ring over the TC end before you hook it up, and you can screw on your blow-off jar!
 
BeardedBrews said:
I 100% see where you're coming from, all I'm suggesting is that since you're adding an air-lock grommet, submerging the outlet from your blowoff tube is redundant.

Suck-Back is a problem with the 3-piece locks, but if you use the S-Bubble variety then that isn't an issue. All that you're left with is a way to deal with krausen going down the tube, and having the big open jar gives a great place for that to run into.

The other advantage to this approach is on Jay's side. He just has to weld a single 1/2" barb to a canning jar lid, and then drill and grommet for the airlock. The same lid would work for any size jar.

Actually, he could incorporate this lid onto the end of that $15 conical SS Blow-Off Arm that he made. Then you just slip a canning ring over the TC end before you hook it up, and you can screw on your blow-off jar!
Click to expand...

you do make good points. Though the idea(hope) is that the second jar will act as a CO2 reservoir. so that when i do take that sample, water may suck back to the jar but only(mostly) CO2 will be available to go back into the conical. With what your describing, regular air will mix readily and be available to go in the conical. With that said, i have not done a hardcore analysis of air in these situations and this may not work. Though it would stand to reason that the amount of CO2 being pumped through the jar would dilute any oxygen greatly over the course of fermentation.

If the desire is to get it to one piece, the second mason jar topper with the airlock could go. One could simply put the end of the tube in a pitcher or bucket and be done. Not a bad idea really.

Lastly my $15 conical blow-off is in the mail and I'm super excited about it getting here.
 
One thing I would love is a filter attachment for the Grainfather to where I could use a Blichmann hopblocker.
 
Ok, I know it sounds silly and it's not exactly new or one off but how about a vendor offering TC welded Chugger/March and Mark II stainless pump heads. I know Bobby M has his silver solder setup and Brewer's Hardware is working on TC on inline stainless head but what about the center inlet design? I know you will need to machine threads off and weld but these are not super crazy things.
 
FoCobrewguy said:
a 2 inch TC sampling port. I have some bung sided kegs I am aging sours in. I have them lying on their sides with bung hole facing up. I have one sampling port to add to the TC opening for if you were to tap the keg. I have only been able to find a 1" sampling port so I have to go 2" to 1" reducing cap and then the sampling fitting. If you made a 2 inch that would connect directly to the fitting avoiding the need for the reduction cap that would be awesome. Also if you could incorporate a dip tub into it so you could empty the keg from that port would be pretty sweet as well. Just a thought. Let me know if you need/want more details.
Click to expand...

Send me a picture or 2 of what you have right now.

[email protected]

Cheers
Jay
 
What about a stainless funnel that has about 12 inch stem that can fit in a narrow Glass carboy neck for adding gelatin for other things into a carboy to limit aeration?
 
A fitting that will hold a ~1/2" OD steel tube to the inside of a kettle or basket for recirculation. Doesn't have to be pretty.
Fixture would mount to the kettle rim, like an upside-down U, then tighten a screw to hold it in place.
Another screw (or 2) would tighten/loosen to allow the steel tube to be moved up/down, or rotated radially.

it would be somewhat like a piece from these products, but would not be permanently attached to the tube, nor prevent an angled/bent tube from being removed:
cobrewingsystems recirculation assembly:
w5vl1cp.png

morebeer ultimate sparge arm:
X3uQ3sY.png
 
Dolomieu said:
you do make good points. Though the idea(hope) is that the second jar will act as a CO2 reservoir. so that when i do take that sample, water may suck back to the jar but only(mostly) CO2 will be available to go back into the conical. With what your describing, regular air will mix readily and be available to go in the conical. With that said, i have not done a hardcore analysis of air in these situations and this may not work. Though it would stand to reason that the amount of CO2 being pumped through the jar would dilute any oxygen greatly over the course of fermentation.

If the desire is to get it to one piece, the second mason jar topper with the airlock could go. One could simply put the end of the tube in a pitcher or bucket and be done. Not a bad idea really.

Lastly my $15 conical blow-off is in the mail and I'm super excited about it getting here.
Click to expand...

Hey guys,

Without positive pressure air HAS to get sucked back even with a S airlock or a vacuum will form! Dolomieu I see what you are trying to do here with the CO2 reservoir... When I used carboys I did something similar with balloons.

I don't want to push any business away from Jaybird here, but it sounds like what you are looking to get made is an off the shelf product already.... a Suction Canister.

http://www.medline.com/products/perioperative-supplies/suction-canister-systems

http://www.bemishealthcare.com/products/suction-canisters/hydrophobic-rigid/

canisters_hydrophobic_1200tubes.jpg
 
I appreciate the off the shelf piece you found but I would still like a set up to work with mason jars.

So what's a guy gotta do to make that happen?
 
Dolomieu said:
I appreciate the off the shelf piece you found but I would still like a set up to work with mason jars.

So what's a guy gotta do to make that happen?
Click to expand...

I am getting my laser set up to do another run of Harvesters. While its running the lids I am going to have some of these cut on the laser too. I will PM you the details in a bit and we can discuss the options for you and what I am thinking about.

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
I am getting my laser set up to do another run of Harvesters. While its running the lids I am going to have some of these cut on the laser too. I will PM you the details in a bit and we can discuss the options for you and what I am thinking about.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

I'm interested in the mason jar blow offs as well😜
 
Speaking of the laser. If you all need things laser cut. It doesn't have to be Stainless, doesn't have to be brewing. We do it all. Let me know. If I can toss it in when I am doing set up we can probably do it for a lot less than elsewhere for you.

Cheers
Jay
 
I need a false bottom (approx. 26") with proper legs designed to fit a 60 gal. Groen steam kettle. My thoughts for the legs is to use the remainder of some 1/2 SS tubing in somewhat of a bow shape to rest on the bottom of the kettle and support the false bottom toward the center. The outer edges of the false bottom would rest on the curvature of the kettle.

The kettle has been modified to an electric kettle.
 
Hi Jay,
I was looking at your ultimate keg fermenting kit. What are the chances you could add a thermowell to it? If you could I would take a couple!
 
Museic said:
Hi Jay,
I was looking at your ultimate keg fermenting kit. What are the chances you could add a thermowell to it? If you could I would take a couple!
Click to expand...

I am working on getting some 16" thermowells. I am about 2-3 weeks out from them landing at my shop. We are playing around with it. I will keep you posted once they land and we get a few made up and on the site.

Cheers
Jay
 
Dfitz said:
I need a false bottom (approx. 26") with proper legs designed to fit a 60 gal. Groen steam kettle. My thoughts for the legs is to use the remainder of some 1/2 SS tubing in somewhat of a bow shape to rest on the bottom of the kettle and support the false bottom toward the center. The outer edges of the false bottom would rest on the curvature of the kettle.

The kettle has been modified to an electric kettle.
Click to expand...

I will shoot you a PM regarding your build. I don't see any reason we can't build you what you need. I have built several.

Cheers
Jay
 
andrewmaixner said:
A fitting that will hold a ~1/2" OD steel tube to the inside of a kettle or basket for recirculation. Doesn't have to be pretty.
Fixture would mount to the kettle rim, like an upside-down U, then tighten a screw to hold it in place.
Another screw (or 2) would tighten/loosen to allow the steel tube to be moved up/down, or rotated radially.

it would be somewhat like a piece from these products, but would not be permanently attached to the tube, nor prevent an angled/bent tube from being removed.

cobrewingsystems recirculation assembly (fancy, TC):
http://imgur.com/w5vl1cp.png
morebeer ultimate sparge arm:
http://imgur.com/X3uQ3sY.png
Click to expand...
So is this custom piece idea something that seems easily doable, or should I just do something using a few spring clamps and bolts?
 
I think a simple pass through compression fitting (so it can be removed) and a little 90* clamp should do it.

That is a 1/2" OD stainless cane?

From the pictures it looks like the the end of the cane is bent. Is that just your dip tube in there making it look like that?

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
I think a simple pass through compression fitting (so it can be removed) and a little 90* clamp should do it.

That is a 1/2" OD stainless cane?

From the pictures it looks like the the end of the cane is bent. Is that just your dip tube in there making it look like that?

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...
Yes, 1/2" OD from here: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/sstubecustom.htm
The recirculation out end in the kettle is bent at 60deg with 1.5" radius. (No dip tube)
I presume that rules out the compression fitting then?

What about something like one (or two, for stability) drill stop collars welded to something, with the allan wrench set screws replaced with a thumb-screw? ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Set-Screw...eel-5-8-Bore-1-1-8-OD-1-2-Width-/321966933846 )
 
I am thinking split collars would do the trick. I just need to find some 1/2" and Stainless. Find those and life is good.

Cheers
Jay
 
Dolomieu said:
I appreciate the off the shelf piece you found but I would still like a set up to work with mason jars.

So what's a guy gotta do to make that happen?
Click to expand...

Just because there were several people curious about this as well I just want to give an update.

This is in the works. The parts should be ready in about a week or so. I have a BUNCH more of the gaskets on the way as well for the lids.

A few other things we have in the mix for the canning jars.

I am doing a canning jar lid with a 1/2 coupling for the guys that want to have their thermowell in water in their fermenting chambers. This way they wont spill.

Also doing a Tri Clover 5/8" dip tube for the large Speidel fermentor.

And I am also doing the 2" Tri clover Yeast harvester for you guys that have 2" stuff on the bottom of your conicals. I have had a BUNCH of commercial brewers contact me about doing a 2" version. Super cool stuff!

Keep your eyes out.

Cheers
Jay
 
andrewmaixner said:
Yes, 1/2" OD from here: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/sstubecustom.htm
The recirculation out end in the kettle is bent at 60deg with 1.5" radius. (No dip tube)
I presume that rules out the compression fitting then?

What about something like one (or two, for stability) drill stop collars welded to something, with the allan wrench set screws replaced with a thumb-screw? ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Set-Screw...eel-5-8-Bore-1-1-8-OD-1-2-Width-/321966933846 )
Click to expand...

Found the Split collars at Mc Master Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#split-shaft-collars/=12w6qdy

Spendy but I doubt to spend for the job.

Something like this should work I would think.

Cheers
Jay
 

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