That's a good start, but why not spend $17 extra and make it with triclamp fittings. I found this RIMS Tube at glaciertanks in the not easily seen "More" tab of the "Triclamp Product 304/316" tab. It comes with everything you need; 2 x 1.5" triclamp T's and 5 x 1.5" Triclamps with seals for an amazing $89. Check out JoeyChopps parts list for the 1.5" Triclamp to 1" NPT fitting you'll need for your element and my post on the 1.5" Triclamp RTD. Then all you need is a pump, heater element, PID circuit, and your wort in/out connections.
RIMS for Dummies
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That's a good start, but why not spend $17 extra and make it with triclamp fittings. I found this RIMS Tube at glaciertanks in the not easily seen "More" tab of the "Triclamp Product 304/316" tab. It comes with everything you need; 2 x 1.5" triclamp T's and 5 x 1.5" Triclamps with seals for an amazing $89. Check out JoeyChopps parts list for the 1.5" Triclamp to 1" NPT fitting you'll need for your element and my post on the 1.5" Triclamp RTD. Then all you need is a pump, heater element, PID circuit, and your wort in/out connections.
wilfonzo
Well-Known Member
I wish they had a better description on the glaciertanks tube. Ok, it says "Element end fitting is threaded with 1” NPS threads to match almost every water heater element available at any home improvement center." So.. the "element end fitting" is the NPS adapter, which doesn't come with it?
And what size are the two outlets on top?
And what size are the two outlets on top?
fluidmechanics
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Mark
JoeyChopps
Well-Known Member
fc36 said:
I love my 1.5 and I also love how short mine is compared to the 1 inch model it's easier to clean IMO. My output barbs are 3/4 and I used 1/2 line. I had to boil water and soak the hose in the water and them man handed the hose onto the barbs but I don't have to use hose clamps and there is no way in hell the hose is coming off without a knife. The only problem I ran into with my rig is the element won't fit into the fitting without bending the element a little but I went slow and didn't damage the element.
Are you saying your water heater element is threaded for 1.5" NPT?
JoeyChopps
Well-Known Member
fc36 said:
Yea the element fit the fitting I used but the end of the element was too wide to go through the fitting so I had to pitch it a bit and it screwed in perfect.
Wanted to give a big thanks to this thread and stlbeer for helping me get this put together and working. It works well and I can hit my mash temps dead on.
Its a 2000w 120v system with an Auber PID with the timer built in. The tube is the 2" from brewershardware.com.
Its a 2000w 120v system with an Auber PID with the timer built in. The tube is the 2" from brewershardware.com.
I just bought one, and the NPS fitting must be bought separately. The two outlets are the same size as the end openings & can accomodate 1/2" NPT fittings.
Nice heat stick! I love mine and couldn't brew without it.
Whew! I just got done reading all 1080+ posts of this.
For those who have purchased the glaciertanks tube - http://www.glaciertanks.com/Rims_Tube_Kit-Rims_Tube_Kit_with_Clamps_1_1_2_SS304.html - The picture on their website doesn't really show the ends or any of the openings of the tube - did you still need to adapters for the triclamp fittings - http://www.glaciertanks.com/Products-TriClamp_Products.html - for the probe, wort in and wort out? I would think for the element as well, but the page says this - "Element end fitting is threaded with 1 NPS threads to match almost every water heater element available at any home improvement center." Or is it the same as the base configuration as the Brewers Hardware RIMS Tube - http://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-RIMS-Tube.html
Jeebas, two things. First, it says in two places on Glaciers' RIMS tube page, this: "NPS Adapter sold separately", and this: "Water heater element and NPS adapter and temperature controller and Pump are required but not included." Second, buy this for your wort in/out connections: 1.5" Triclamp to 1/2" Hose Barb, this for your heater element: 1.5" Triclamp to 1" NPS adapter for 1" heater elements, and finally this for your RTD 1.5" Triclamp RTD. That should take care of that and eliminate any and all hard to clean threaded RIMS tube fittings besides the heater element itself.
The thing is, Glacier is charging $89.00 for a 20" long version of the Triclamp RIMS Tube, but Brewer's Hardware wants $110 for their shorter 16" version. Both don't include any end fittings or adapters. Just the two triclamp Ts and the 5 triclamps with seals.
Update: Brewer's hardware has a 2-wire PID with 1.5" Triclamp fitting for $25 instead of Auberins $40 one. You can find it here. Also, Brewer's Hardware has an interesting heater element adapter that I found here. It does cost quite a bit at $69.00, but for those looking for peace of mind and a virtually waterproof heater element connection, it might be worth the extra scratch.
Total price from Glacier:
1 x RIMS Tube Kit - $89.00
2 x 1.5" Triclamp to 0.5" Hose Barb Adapters - $8.90 ea.
1 x 1.5" Triclamp to 1" NPS Water Heater Element Adapter - $18.00
1 x Brewer's Hardware 1.5" Triclamp RTD - $25.00
Total - $149.80
Total price from Brewer's Hardware
1 x RIMS Tube Kit - $110.00
2 x 1.5" Triclamp to 0.5" Hose Barb Adapters - $13.00 ea.
1 x 1.5" Triclamp to 1" NPS Water Heater Element Adapter - $29.00
1 x 1.5" Triclamp RTD - $25.00
Total - $190.00
Nuff said! With your $40 savings from Glacier you can buy a PID controller.
Mtn_Brewer
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I use the brewers hardware element and RTD connectors and they have worked great.
Ha! That price comparison is exactly what I was working on today.
I do like the BrewersHardware element adapter offers for the sake of enclosing the element wiring. But it seems I am gonna be mix and matching from the two. I am still just gathering info at this point. The ability to reliably maintain mash temps is fighting with the urge to wait til I have more $ and go all electric.
Still not sure if I am gonna make another toolbox or just keep my pump toolbox separate or put the wiring for that and this in a larger enclosure or toolbox.
Another consideration, Brewershardware has a 2" tube as well to accommodate fold back elements. I went with this one and it works very well for me, it was worth the extra $. Also, I really like their element housing. It is very nice in a liquid environment.
I'd keep them separate for the flexibility and ease of switching to an all-electric set up in the future. I wouldn't bother trying to rewire your old system and adapt an old one in. Best to start fresh and make it easy on yourself. A cheapo toolbox from Schmoe Depot will cost you only $5-10 and then you have all that extra tray space for fittings and gadgets.
In regards to the BH element adapter with the watertight cord grip. I just thought of an alternative. Instead of spending $69 on theirs, just buy the $18 one from Glacier and then JB weld a PVC adapter bushing over it. I'm thinking a 1.5-2" by 3/4" adapter bushing like this or this plus a 3/4" cord grip from the Rat Shack can achieve the same effect for less than $25 total.
What did your 2" tube cost from BH? P.S. Glacier probably beat it! They've got a 2" tube for $119.
I used the SYL-1512A for the PID and a 'K' Type Thermocouple, also a 240V 4500 watt low density heater element running off of 110V.
The RIMS tube I bought from Stout Tanks for $150.00 came with all the TriClamp fittings and hose barb fittings.
The RIMS tube I bought from Stout Tanks for $150.00 came with all the TriClamp fittings and hose barb fittings.
misled_drummer
Well-Known Member
You guys are amazing. So here is my tentative parts list, which is a mix and match of things you guys have posted. Please tell me if I am on the right track.
1. RIMS Tube: http://www.glaciertanks.com/Rims_Tube_Kit-Rims_Tube_Kit_with_Clamps_1_1_2_SS304.html
2. 2 x 1.5" TC to .5 Hose Barb Adapter: http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Hose_Adapters-Rubber_Hose_Adapter_1_2_-1_1_2_TC.html
3. 1 x 1.5" Triclamp to 1" NPS Water Heater Element Adapter: http://www.glaciertanks.com/NPT_Tri...emale_to_1_1_2_TriClamp_Heavy_Duty_SS304.html
4. Brewer's Hardware RTD: http://www.brewershardware.com/Pt100-RTD-Temperature-Sensor-in-1.5-Flange-3-penetration.html
OR
Auberins TC Liquid Tight RTD: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=267
Standard Teflon and 60mm probe length (Standard Tee)?
5. Auber 2352 PID: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3
6. 25A SSR:http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9
7. 25A heat sink: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=45
8. 1500w 120v ELD Element: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/water-heater-element-2853.jpg
9. A 20A GFC extension Cord. I assume I need this because of the pump? Otherwise I would just use a GFC outlet in my toolbox.
10. 3 x Switches (not sure what kind I want yet)
11. Tool Box, wires, (anything else?)
Does that seem about right? My pump came with a cord. Should I split open the cable and remove the receptacle? Or is there any easier way to incorporate the pump into the toolbox?
Thanks again guys.
1. RIMS Tube: http://www.glaciertanks.com/Rims_Tube_Kit-Rims_Tube_Kit_with_Clamps_1_1_2_SS304.html
2. 2 x 1.5" TC to .5 Hose Barb Adapter: http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Hose_Adapters-Rubber_Hose_Adapter_1_2_-1_1_2_TC.html
3. 1 x 1.5" Triclamp to 1" NPS Water Heater Element Adapter: http://www.glaciertanks.com/NPT_Tri...emale_to_1_1_2_TriClamp_Heavy_Duty_SS304.html
4. Brewer's Hardware RTD: http://www.brewershardware.com/Pt100-RTD-Temperature-Sensor-in-1.5-Flange-3-penetration.html
OR
Auberins TC Liquid Tight RTD: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=267
Standard Teflon and 60mm probe length (Standard Tee)?
5. Auber 2352 PID: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3
6. 25A SSR:http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9
7. 25A heat sink: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=45
8. 1500w 120v ELD Element: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/water-heater-element-2853.jpg
9. A 20A GFC extension Cord. I assume I need this because of the pump? Otherwise I would just use a GFC outlet in my toolbox.
10. 3 x Switches (not sure what kind I want yet)
11. Tool Box, wires, (anything else?)
Does that seem about right? My pump came with a cord. Should I split open the cable and remove the receptacle? Or is there any easier way to incorporate the pump into the toolbox?
Thanks again guys.
That's a good price. I paid $130, but at the time Glacier did not have RIMS tubes yet. I have bought SS parts from both Glacier and Brewershardware and had a good experience with both. Brewershardware did go out of their way for me with some custom stuff so I would continue doing business with them for myself. $15 is worth the customer service to me. But again, I have never had negative service from Glacier with my orders with them.
...and boom goes the dynamite! You hit the nail on the head and you should be step mashing in no time.
Why not put a receptacle on one side of the toolbox? Then cut the tab in the middle of the receptacles two outlets and have each outlet of the receptacle be on its own circuit. Then just put a plug on the end of your RIMS element and have both a pump and RIMS with plugs. Wire the first RIMS element outlet to an SSR that is in parallel with a second SSR that is powering the pump outlet. That way you can just plug your RIMS element and pump into each outlet and not ruin the pump's nice cord.
That'll allow you more flexibility in the future with your pump and also allow you to unplug and neatly wrap up your RIMS when not in use and have it stored out of sight.
misled_drummer
Well-Known Member
That means I would need to purchase an additional SSR and Heatsink just for the pump? I wouldn't be able to have them on the same circuit?
For those of you that have built this. Are you running both the pump and the element on the same circuit? and is that circuit 240 or 120. If 120 are you using a 15 amp circuit or a 20 am circuit? if 15 amp have you had any problems? tripping breakers and the like?
Sam
Sam
The short answer is yes. The long answer is no, but you must ensure that your receptacle and SSR that you choose are rated high enough for the load.
The reason I quickly said you wouldn't be able to have them on the same circuit was that pumps, when first turned on, have a much higher current draw to overcome being at rest, which quickly spikes down to normal operating current. That spike of energy has the potential to fry electronics so just be aware of that. However, if you're comfortable with that, then by all means put them on one receptacle with only one SSR.
That being said, let's take an example: If you choose to operate your RIMS on 120VAC and your heater element is the popular 1500 Watt version, then your circuit should be sized like this:
1500W/120VAC = 12.5 Amps
Typical March 809 Pump draws 1.4 Amps on 120VAC (look here for March Pump electrical req'ts)
Total = 13.9 Amps * 1.25 (25% Overcurrent Protection) = 17.375 Amps
Just be careful and make sure to buy plugs, receptacles, etc. rated for the next higher common amperage size, which will be 20 Amps. A lot of commonly found electrical components at places like Home Depot are default rated for 15 Amps, so just make sure to pay attention and grab the 20 Amp or greater rated ones. For your SSR, I would size it for 30 Amps and then you'll not necessarily need to buy a heatsink, as the 17.4 Amps needed to run this circuit is well below the 30 Amp capability of your SSR and it should therefore not heat up all that much. Hope this helps.
JoeyChopps
Well-Known Member
KokomoSam said:
I'm running mine on a 120w and a 15 amp breaker. That's the pump and the element and I have my beer fridge on the same circuit with no problems. Cheers
Thanks. what wattage is your element?
JoeyChopps
Well-Known Member
KokomoSam said:
1000 watt. It works well but I'm going to try a 1500 soon.
misled_drummer
Well-Known Member
That's exactly what I wanted to operate my RIMS at. I will get a 40A SSR and get the heatsink just in case.
Should I add that 15A breaker to my parts list too? I want to be as safe as possible since I have no prior electrical experience.
Thanks.
misled_drummer
Well-Known Member
Man this project is going to be expensive. $153 for the RIMS tube and fittings after shipping. I still need to buy quick disconnects for it too! :/
Mtn_Brewer
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bazowie said:
Also, an SSR usually needs a heat sink but a contactor does not. Auber has a cheap single pole contactor for ~$9. Here's the link:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=250
You're right, you could operate it with the pump always on and then the heater will kick on or off as needed. However, some people use the pump on an SSR as well in order to not lose all the heat when moving wort through the RIMS when the heater is off. It's all a personal choice and only adds about $10-20 for an SSR.
If you switch to a 1500 watt element make sure to also change your breaker to 20 Amps at least. I know you're operating your RIMS and beer fridge on the same 15 Amp circuit, but I personally would not do that for safety purposes. It works, but when both are on, you are very near to the max cap. of your breaker. A typical beer fridge's compressor will run on 4 Amps and your 1000 Watt element is running on 8.33 Amps for a total of 12.33 Amps with no safety factor. I would swap for a 20 ASAP.
See my post above. You really should be running a 1500 Watt element on at least a 20 Amp breaker if you plan on using any other electrical eqpt on that same circuit. And just to clarify, I believe JoeyChopps is referring to the breaker that is installed in his home's circuit panel. You won't need to buy a new one if you have a 20 amp feeding a circuit nearby to where you're brewing.
misled_drummer
Well-Known Member
That makes sense.
I put the order in for the RIMS Tube and the fittings. The other stuff will have to wait until next paycheck.
donnieballgame
Member
I love this setup, my only regret was buying the ss pipe first before I found out about the tri-clamps, really wish I did a little more research before pulling the trigger, also be careful to make sure you have the right PID, I don't think the original part list has the PID part number on it. SSR not contactor
Good luck!
Good luck!
Where did you purchase your RIMS Tube?
misled_drummer
Well-Known Member
Glacier.
Stout's is a good value, especially if you want 2" pipe. You will need a liquid sensor or a cap for that opening. I am not brewing over 10 gal., so 1 1/2" pipe works for me. Glacier was a good deal, but I wish they priced comparable to Stout.
