SSR control is where it's at man :rockin:
Hey gang - Quick question. I'm looking at buying this PID for my RIMS build: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=102
Do I want the one with a Relay Contactor, or SSR control? I'm assuming SSR control.
Thanks!
The specs show both relay and SSR are available:
Output mode Relay Contact, 7A at 240VAC, 10A at 120VAC, 12VDC for SSR
Looks like it can handle both heating and cooling. Might be better used on a lagering fridge.
I plan on using this one: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106
It's a bit less expensive and still offers both relay and SSR outputs plus it offers a learning mode.
Relay and SSR are options though. It does not come with both.
Which do I need for this RIMS setup?
If your using a PID to control the heating element then the SSR is the only option. The switching is so fast and frequent that you'll burn up a mechanical relay in no time.
Ok so I am in the process of upgrading my system. I was set on doing direct fire resirc like the brutus. After reading this thread I have some questions.
1. Do you use your burner to heat up your initial strike water to mash in, and then use your rims tube while you are resirculating to maintain mash temp?
2. Do you heat your sparge in your HLT and then use the Rims tube to keep the constant temp?
3. "Stainless steel RIMS tube with extra low density 120V 1500W element" is this for a basic 110 outlet?
Sorry not an electricity guy. If I understand this right then this seem seasier than buying asco valves and pilot lights to do direct fire.
So what are the typical threads of all of your elements?" I have seen a few (most maybe) that might be NPSM threads. From everything i have read NPSM threads (being straight) are not intended to fit with NPT thread (thats tapared). At the the very least, this is not an "ideal" fit for a water tight application. Are most of you just using a rather large amount of teflon to try and get a better fit.
Interesting information on thread type.
Where did you find a 1" NPSM pipe tap? I can't imagine who would have one. And would guess the cost would be too high for a single use to buy one.
Could someone tell me the difference between the
Auberins syl-2352 and the syl-43x2
Is size the only difference or are there some control features that I'm missing?
Edit: I see you can use the alarm out on the syl-43x2 to run an SSR. That being said is the 2352 suitable for this RIMS setup?
I built mine with all npt fittings and could not get my heater element to catch more than the first thread, so I bought a cheap tap on ebay to re-cut the bushing for the heater element to nps. I did not worry about buying a high dollar tap since I would only need it once. It definitely has a few more rims tubes in it.
I was able to screw my element into NPT fittings. A little teflon tape. I put the tee into my vice and used some elbow grease. Thankfully it worked. I'm not sure why yours gave you such a hassle!
Sawdustguy,
I was reading some of your post over on the brewtroller page and I had a few questions.
Am I correct in thinking that you cannot use an RTD in the brewtroller setup? If this is the case, can you use the brewtroller thermocouple with a PID? I just want to make certain that I have components that can be easily swapped between systems if I choose to go to a brewtroller setup.
Also, is there any way to automate using PID, and SSR's. Some PIDs have dual output (using the alarm) could this be used to control an electric valve? If not, is this RIMS for dummies completely manual in terms of turnings pumps on.
I know I'm kinda all over the place on this but I just want to get an idea of what to purchase instead of buying components and then realizing they will not do what I want them to do.
How about doing it this way. It will require a DPDT Center Off switch. It should give you the control you want. If the element is energized the pump is also. The switch in the other position energizes the pump and disconnects power to the element. (BTW -With a 120V system you do not need to switch the neutral.)...
I'm not sure how to wire the coil. So, my question is, for any tech savvy brewers out there - should I run the relay coil (4K4 ohm resistive load) down to neutral as per this diagram, should I run it in series with the pump? Any help much appreciated.
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