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Once you add yeast and fermentation begins, it's technically beer. Doesn't even have to leave the fermenter.

Most big beers will develop more complex character with age. Bulk aging has the advantage of improving consistency and some say makes an overall better product. My preference is to bulk age in a secondary vessel for an extended time. Then keg, carbonate and bottle from the keg before cellaring...

Conversion efficiency vs Lauter efficiency.

Iodine test will tell you if you have starches that need converting, not if you need to sparge to get enough of the sugars from your mash.

per entry? :eek:

Inkbird itc-308? $35 gets you wired, 2 stage temp controller.

Could be argued that your two gallon batch is a starter. Harvest from there. ;)

Over time I think you'll find that, with good racking skills, clarity is actually better if you leave your beer in the primary for the extra time it would have spent in a secondary, but yeast harvesting and dry hopping are good reasons to transfer. Sure, you can use yeast from a primary dry...

And to further answer your questions, if you plan to bottle this beer, you'll have to keg it in order to make great beer like I do. ;)

Yeast do have genetic and physical traits that cause them react differently, what they don't have is personalities or an intuitive or rational thought process.

SG is specific gravity and can be use when describing OG (original gravity) or FG (final gravity) or any reading in-between.

That's way too old school from when homebrewing was about resourcefulness and innovation. Now that the hipsters are here, it's how much money you can spend. You're going to have to buy a temperature controlled fermentation chamber. :drunk:

IPA's are like porn. Once the hipsters get over their sex addiction phase, we'll be able to go back to enjoying them in peace.

has had his question answered and that a little sarcastic humor may incorage him to look up the terms used in discribing carbonation techiques. I would also assume that, unlike you, he understands where we're coming from and doesn't need the PC police to help him.

Or he doesn't know the difference between force carbing and burst carbing. :cross:

Serious question. So you and Denny are saying that mash thickness doesn't effect pH or that we shouldn't be conserned with that. What I've read is that over about 2 qts/lb you have the potential to be out of the safe pH range, but that could very well be part of the outdated information also.

hmmmmm . . . what's up with not turning a light on?

Kind of like unplugging all the lights in your house and taking out the bulbs cause your house might burn down if there's a short. :D

:confused:

No gas line? Not going to carb like that. Did you seat the lid?