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Glad to help! honestly I have MOST of my homebrews in the keg in a week or less, style, recipe, and gravity dependent of course although i basically only check gravity before pitching yeast, and when i suspect fermentation is complete. However at the brewery, the big batches dont see cans or...

Hey Petemoss! To answer this complicated question, in a non complicated way, no the trub and yeast cake is not important to the further development of the beer beyond primary fermentation. That being said, yes yeast will always be in suspension unless you were to filter. Like you speculated...

I do this as well, but using the carboy that will ferment the beer being brewed. Easier for me to carry than a keggle lol

+1 for bleme, check what both read in distilled water. or at least tap water

I'll be fermenting it ambiently in the house, generally upper 60's to low 70's, for a mild ester production

Just wanted to share this recipe, brewing it over the weekend. Eager to share some thoughts about it post fermentation. 6 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 75.0 % 2 lbs Wheat - White Malt (Briess) (2.3 SRM) Grain 2 25.0 % 0.50 oz Hallertau Blanc [7.70 %] - First Wort 30.0 min Hop 3 11.2...

Just cover it in foil and dig it out post fermentation. I'm too lazy to buy enough airlocks for all of my carboys, i do this regularly lol

Shanks aren't too expensive, I've done everything you all recommended in every way I could imagine. I'm thinking the answer lies within my wallet

I tried loosening from the back so that there has more room to tighten onto the tap itself, to no avail. It did help, but I think the problem is the face of the shank. Here's a picture of it, no idea how it happened.. looks like it got beaten with a hammer. Also here's the back of the tap, looks...

I appreciate the replies, I've taken them off, and taken them apart multiple times now to no avail o_O its seeming like im going to have to just replace them

I've taken them apart numerous times now, gasket appears new and i have placed it back in place a few times. I would think that even if it were the metal piece it sits against, that the gasket would seal against it regardless if it were tight enough. Let alone why two faucets exhibit the same...

I simply can not figure this out.. The problem is as pictured. The o ring is fine and intact, teeth are fine for the fitting. I was rebuilding the collar and took it all apart, now it wont work! 2 of the three taps are like this, upon insoection they are all exactly the same. Maybe the metal...

as soon as you break a bottle, youll know

Quick rule of thumb here- lower temps= more fermentable wort, meaning a thinner beer. higher mash temps= less fermentable sugars, a thicker beer. this is all within reason of course, we'll say around 148 degrees to mid 150's before enzymatic death occurs (why some people mash out at 168 or above).

+1 for taste them If they visibly are fine, taste like something you could make a beer with, and arent growing anything funny on them, then the worst case scenario is you make beer.

IMO for most stout recipes, insert any noble hop

Born and raised in snoho!

Working on this recipe, it's not a cream ale by any means, however i intend on mashing high, adding lactose, and using a lower flocculating yeast (Munich from Lallemand) for increased mouthfeel and "creaminess." 6lb 2 row 1lb white wheat 1lb flaked oats .5lb cara 20l .25lb honey malt 4oz...

Hey all! thought I'd go ahead and share a recipe I threw together for my first homebrew in two years, since going "professional." OG 1.068 FG 1.010 8lb Brewers malt 2lb White wheat 2lb Flaked oats 1lb Cara 20l .5 Honey malt 4tsp "burtons salts" added at 60min boil 3oz amarillo @WP 1oz cryo...

DMS has a boiling point of ~99 degrees Fahrenheit. A boil is a boil, unless you take hop isomerization into account when higher temperatures=better utilization to a certain extent