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Or you could take it apart (the four bolts) and just make it right side up.

Yeah, I’ve thought about the pool for chill water too but it’s logistically an issue for me as the garage is a long way from the pool unless I go through the house, and that would get a veto pretty much immediately. It may still be worth it if I can work the right pump out.

Well. We have proof that StarSan will not kill a thread.

Yeah, it’s not salty at all, I just said that because people often equate salt pools with the ocean. The element occasionally needs to be replaced and (this is probably more important) there has to be sufficient flow to do the salt to chlorine conversion. If you switch to a low flow / variable...

Yeah. They’re different threads and that’s for a reason - sure you can adapt one thing to fit another with enough fittings, but the point is to not encourage potential safety / life issues. Will it matter for beer? Probably not. But it does in other areas, like scuba diving, where gas mixes are...

We moved to Florida a few years ago and learned about green pools. It’s not the chiller - all the pool chemistry comments are right, but the easy button is a salt cell. Electrodes turn salt into chlorine, the sun turns chlorine into salt and the cycle repeats. It’s also less salty than the ocean.

I'm moving and will probably switch to electric, so you get a deal. I'm selling a single tier 3 vessel stand that I've really only used for brew in a basket. Here's what I'm selling: stand with burners and chugger pump 3 - 25 gallon Concord kettles - two are unmodified, one has a thermometer...

I can't comment with authority on undercounter vs normal, but I believe you should be fine with adequate venting. If you go that route I'd suggest a high and low vent to get good airflow. I can state that tap cooling is essential even in my basement setup which isn't anywhere near as extreme...

Video or it didn't happen!

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but this seemed like the right place. Also I've read a bunch of it and appreciate all the posts and information. I've put together a rough plan for a NG BIAB control panel with the option to expand to a two vessel brutus 20 style setup in the future. Does...

For the hot water question, note that the EPA says to only use cold water for eating and drinking, but it's your decision of course. For the drain question, you are proposing a "wet vent". Some places allow it, some don't. You'll probably be fine, but may want to look into adding a pseudo...

I have a 25 gallon concord pot plus an arbor fab D shaped basket (relevant because it has feet to sit off the bottom and doesn't take up the entirety of the pot diameter for grain height), and 10 gallon batches are perfect. Usual grain weight is 20-25 lbs, but I have plenty of room to go...

I flush starsan through my nostrils before doing a farmer's blow into my wort for my Booger IPA to prevent exactly this problem.

I don't lose a quart in two weeks, but I do have to top off mine occasionally and I keep the fan running all the time. This is a GDM 10 and I do make sure the blow offs aren't directly in line with the fan.

I've been looking into some automation for my NG setup and this looks great for handling mash temps. But, all my stuff has the brew hardware cam lock fittings. Is it easy to do cam locks (or an NPT fitting that a cam lock could be put on) instead of tri clover? Or I suppose I could find a way to...

I have one that I've used for maybe a year and a half for 10 gallon batches in at 25 gallon concord pot, it works great!

I have a 25 gallon pot with a large basket from arbor fab that works out perfectly. We have a walkout basement with a deck above it, so right now I just use a ratcheting pully to get the basket up high enough for the arbor fab basket rest clips to work, then squeeze down on that. I'm happy...

Dude, like someone said earlier, just use PBW. It works perfectly. Fill up your kettle however far your deposits go, heat the water up, put in the right amount of PBW, mix it up, and then walk away for a while. Come back and drain your kettle, then wipe the stuff off.

Has anyone done this? I'm assuming I just need to replace the existing hose connections with a male QD like this one: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cama.htm The put the existing hose adapters onto these: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camb.htm I was thinking this...

That won't matter, you're bypassing the internal thermostat with your controller.