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It takes about a minute longer to come to a reasonable temp, but I have dipped my refractometer right I to the kettle dozens of times with no issue. 212 doesn't seem to be hot enough to hurt them at all

I have a bucket with litre markings I measure first runnings in. After everything has been saturated and the mash tun dead space is full whatever I add I assume I get back out on the sparge.

Mine are also hooked up to pin 3 and 4. 5 and 6 are definitely an extra relay for an alarm buzzer. The element continuing to fire past the set point us usually a bad PID tuning setting, the controller probably expects to lose heat faster than your system actually does

Connect it after the contractor, the SSR isn't entirely reliable to turn things off. If you switch the contractor you know the element is completely off

Trying to get the bag out of the tun and drained off isn't a great time once batch size goes bigger. If you were to do a sparge you can do 10 gallon batches in a 70qt cooler pretty comfortably

You could put the metal braid from a hot water heater line on the kettle output, those work pretty well if you don't want to spend big money on a false bottom. I like those better than bazooka screens, though those work alright as well

If you're running a pump I would feed hot wort through the bottom. Having to climb the coil will slow down your flow rate and you should end up with a lower exit temp at the end

I feel like one of the major advantages of a RIMS system is you can get away with 120v without it feeling like a detriment. A 1500W heater is definitely sufficient if it doesn't have to heat your initial water volumes

I'm betting they do. OBK over here in Canada does sales every year and black Friday is super new to the country

You might want a valve on the output of it to limit the flow rate through it depending on how powerful the element is. The wort picks up a lot more heat on its way through the tube at a slower flow rate

I don't think anyone makes a pre done false bottom for square coolers but it is pretty simple to build a manifold out of copper pipe. There are a bunch of threads on here showing them off

Doug isn't trying to be high and mighty. He's just trying to keep you from electrocuting yourself. Water near electricity is a dangerous situation by definition and GFCI could save your life

I've used those little DC pumps a bunch and love them. Even at 10+ gallons flow rate is pretty reasonable and you can't beat them for price point

I wouldn't say going with mypins to save $50ish is a bad call. I have 3 of them between 2 rigs and have been pretty happy with them consistently. I have heard that the manual mode for boil is a little bit iffy but that is super easy to override with an analog knob of you can follow a diagram and...

I'm really surprised seeing so many people say not to worry about the rust here. I understand intellectually that it's no big deal but I constantly see people worrying about stuff that is way less relevant

Have you considered the small 24v pumps a lot of people on here are using? You can get 2 of them and a power supply for like half of what a march or chugger will cost and you won't have to move pumps around

The Duvel brewery does exactly that but I wouldn't recommend it as a Homebrewer. It's a little different when you've made the same beer a thousand times and know exactly how far the Brett is gonna take it.

All of the Trappist appellation breweries bottle with their house yeast, as do most other Belgian monastery beers

Got an air compressor kicking around? I store everything in an unheated garage in Canada, just have to blow all the liquid out before I put things away for the night

Your water report looks very similar to mine. It isn't that hard but I certainly would t call it soft either