help with my wiring 240V & split off to 120V

[Weezy]

Hi all,

finally finishing my ebrewery room. last bits are electric, sink water supply final hookups, and keezer build. I'm looking for help with my wiring.

My homerun to the breaker box is 8-4, which will be hooked up to 50A breaker. This is future proof wiring. It's more than I need now. I need maybe 30 now.

I plan to run the 240V, using 10-4 to a 20A bladed female wall adapter in an outlet box for an avantco 3500W 240V induction cooker (~14.5A max). I don't need a GFCI if that's all I'm plugging in (just like you don't need a GFCI for your oven and dryer), so no spa panel.

I also want to split off 120V for the rest of the room from the 240V service. I have 12-3 wire run to three outlet boxes. All 110V outlets will be 15A GFCI, except the one with USB ports (for 12V pumps).

So, the 8-4 and 10-4 have black & red (both hot), white (neutral), bare copper wires (ground).

The 12-3 has black, white, bare wires.

I'm assuming I can connect the 12-3 wire to the black, white, bare of the 8-4 line, to steal 120V. correct?

the 20A/240V outlet is three wire; two hots (black and white from the 804), and the bare ground wire. Correct?

thanks in advance!
t

 

[doug293cz]

Hi all,

finally finishing my ebrewery room. last bits are electric, sink water supply final hookups, and keezer build. I'm looking for help with my wiring.

My homerun to the breaker box is 8-4, which will be hooked up to 50A breaker. This is future proof wiring. It's more than I need now. I need maybe 30 now.

I plan to run the 240V, using 10-4 to a 20A bladed female wall adapter in an outlet box for an avantco 3500W 240V induction cooker (~14.5A max). I don't need a GFCI if that's all I'm plugging in (just like you don't need a GFCI for your oven and dryer), so no spa panel. Wrong. You do need GFCI protection for any potentially wet area, according to code.

I also want to split off 120V for the rest of the room from the 240V service. I have 12-3 wire run to three outlet boxes. All 110V outlets will be 15A GFCI, except the one with USB ports (for 12V pumps).

So, the 8-4 and 10-4 have black & red (both hot), white (neutral), bare copper wires (ground). Correct.

The 12-3 has black, white, bare wires.

I'm assuming I can connect the 12-3 wire to the black, white, bare of the 8-4 line, to steal 120V. correct? That's one way. You can also connect black of 12-3 to red of 8-4 (plus white to white and gnd to gnd.) You should do as close as half one way and half the other way as practical in order to balance the load on the 240V feed.

the 20A/240V outlet is three wire; two hots (black and white from the 804), and the bare ground wire. Correct? Incorrect. Black & red from the 8.4 plus gnd. Black plus white will only give you 120V

thanks in advance!

Edit: The proper way to do the splits to 120V is inside a subpanel, since you need a breaker wherever you drop wire sizes. You can't just wire nut 12AWG to 8AWG inside a junction box.

Brew on

 

[Weezy]

thanks.

I can balance off the black and red for the other outlets some. sounds good.

I misspoke on the 20A outlet. black, red, ground. doh...check.

And, the 240V outlet isn't in wet area. It'll be connected via homemade extension cord. I should have said that.

 

[ajdelange]

Here's a thought for you reflective of an opportunity I blew to do what I am about to suggest when I added a garage/workshop to my house. I told the electrician to wire 120V boxes here and here and 240V boxes there etc. So he did: pulled 12/2 to both. A smart guy would have had him pull 12/2 to the 120V boxes and 12/3 to the 240V boxes and install duplex 120V outlets in the 240V boxes with the link broken and one outlet wired to each phase (one to red and white and the other to black and white). This gives the smart guy two more 120V outlets until such time as he actually installs a piece of 240 gear when he can pull out the duplex outlet and install the three or 4 pin outlet he needs for that piece of gear. I really feel dumb about this because the main house has some 120V outlets wired that way. It never dawned on me why anyone would do that - until it was too late!

 

[Weezy]

I hear you. My brewery is a 7'x12' room, all concrete block walls, off driveway entrance in basement. Good space. water was already run there (used to be wine room for previous owner). External vent that i ducted and mounted a kitchen stove hood to. I insulated walls, drop ceiling with insulation, and the wiring is all surface mount and conduit, so I can rip it out and change anytime, to anywhere, I like (and I can strip it all out if i ever sell the place). So I'm luckily flexible. The homerun with 50A/240V is all I need.

 

[doug293cz]

thanks.

I can balance off the black and red for the other outlets some. sounds good.

I misspoke on the 20A outlet. black, red, ground. doh...check.

And, the 240V outlet isn't in wet area. It'll be connected via homemade extension cord. I should have said that.

The end of the extension cord near the induction burner is an outlet.

Unless you have figured out how to brew without water, you will have electricity in a wet (by definition) area. You need GFCI protection.

If you insist on skipping the GFCI protection, I am done with this thread, and any other post by you with electrical questions. I won't participate in electrical projects that cut corners on safety. But, it's your butt, and you can do what you want.

Brew on

 

[Weezy]

Whatever! Cheers, buddy! Brew on, Mr. Highandmighty.

 

[Riot]

Doug isn't trying to be high and mighty. He's just trying to keep you from electrocuting yourself. Water near electricity is a dangerous situation by definition and GFCI could save your life

 

[Weezy]

Worrying about my safety doesn't require him to be an azzhole about it. I may be dumb, but I'm not stupid. If I thought for a moment that any party of my setup was unsafe, I'd be doing it differently.

Code also requires a GFCI outlet on any island in your kitchen. This is because you might want to plug something in and set it on the island. If you plug it in somewhere else, you could be creating a tripping hazard with the cord (and worse if the island has a sink). Fine and good point for kitchen island s. But if you consciously never put a corded device on the island there's never any safety risk. For a purpose built brewery, the risks associated with the part time rig setup have been adequately taken care of.

Thanks for the input on the wiring again though Doug.