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I'm midway through my coffin keezer build, and I'm having some troubles coming up with a clean way to tube up my cylinders and CO2 lines. I apologize in advance for the long post! Overview of design: -7.9 cu ft kenmore freezer -Coffin box on top, top entry (will be using spring loaded latches...

I've only seen threads where people clamp to the plastic - but you're suggesting to clamp it to the other side of the metal lid... correct? That actually sounds like it would work better. Seems to make sense anyways, because I'm going to be cutting circular holes for PVC tubing for the liquid...

Hi all, I'm only about a week or two into my coffin keezer build (only built the controls), and I'm running into an issue with the old chest freezer I intended on using. This inside of the lid is in the shape of a triangular prism, with the highest point travelling along the middle...

Having a more substantial mouthfeel is generally associated with a high FG. The more sugar remaining after fermentation, generally the thicker the beer. Similarly, a thin beer will have fermented nearly all of its sugars. To attain a higher FG, you need more unferementable sugars, which are...

Quickly searching on amazon there are chassis mounts for $2 and extension cables for $7 - no need to give me a link! I'm definitely willing to pay under $10 for each float switches wiring, so I'd like to move on with this idea of using XLR! processhead, how do you suggest increasing the surface...

Hmmm, would this idea work.... An XLR chasis mount for the control panel: http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=72_92&products_id=11392 A 10' XLR extension cable: http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=37_59&products_id=7666 Cut off female end of the XLR...

Yes... I like this idea. Would you recommend just the conduit in to the J-B Weld? Or a conduit fitting which would clamp on to the conduit? It seems using the fitting might create a stronger connection, and would probably make the whole thing look better. I also like the idea of using the...

This is what I intend on doing. Which connectors do you suggest? I assume the wires for the float switch will be relatively short, so I will need to extend them, and probably use shrink tubing for insulation up to the quick disconnect at the control panel.

Do you mean to tape around the hex shaped nut, so that it extends parallel to the wires (essentially creating a cup). Then filling this cup with the J-B weld? I'm assuming this would adhere to the SS surface. Seems like a pretty good idea. I wonder if I can get a hex shaped plastic tube that...

Hey everyone, I bought a couple float switches from China for like $12 each w/ free shipping the other day. The only problem is that I'm really worried about the delicate wires getting ripped out by accident. The switch is unlike many of the float switches you tend to see on the internet; it...

Ok this is what I intend to do: 1. A coupling is soldered to a keggle/pot. 2. An element is screwed in to a bushing. 3. The threaded connection between the element/bushing is soldered. The bushing/element are now ONE PIECE. I am not soldering plastic, I am soldering the metal threads of the...

You are correct, it's medium watt density. There are specific numbers that determine the designation for each element (less than 50W/sqin is ULWD etc...). My RIMS is LWD, and im sure having a MWD element for the HLT won't matter (can't scorch sugars). My only real concern is during the boil...

Of course, I would just rather have that not even be a possibility. I know quite a bit about wiring and electronics, and have a lot of experience with electrical systems and wiring... with that said, they still scare the heck out of me when waters around... even if they are properly grounded...

Nice! I was just looking at the silver soldering thread and decided that's how I wanted to do it... I just didn't want to use a gangbox. Does the element screw in? In my idea world, I would like to screw it in and solder around the threads. Even with the flange soldered to the kettle, water...

Yes, I am not concerned about running a 5500W element by itself, my concern has shifted more toward running my HLT element and RIMS at the same time, and what size the BK element should be (and also if MWD is acceptable for a boil). See below for what I would like to be confirmed/discussed...

Is there any way to use tri-clover for the enclosure for a fold back element, but in a weldless formation?

I was hoping to avoid taking out that element because it is siliconed in addition to the silicone gasket used in the weldless connection. But it does seem like the only way possible. Ughh silicone is messy. I could meet the 80% mark by using the 2000W/240V RIMS, 3500W/240V HLT element, and...

Is there a sheet of ply under those 1x6's, and on top of the upper frame?

Hey guys, When I'm bored, I like to make the plans for my next upgrade. It's a great way to spend money even faster! I currently have a 120V, 2000W ULWD heater element in a RIMS tube that I have been using in combination with a propane burner for my HLT and BK. However, I hate using...

In!