Tat2nBrew
Active Member
Ok, I just got a bunch of stuff in today for my build. Please be patient because I am not sure how often I will get to play with this project but I normally have more free time in the winter so that is why I am starting it now.
First off, Thanks to Jester and the countless others who have worked out a lot of the details already. You surely will make my build easier than if I was to try it without such great resources.
I am going to try and keep a running tally of the total amount spent and also the time I spend on the project so other will have an idea what to expect in the future. Sorry about the crappy phone pictures but my Nikon D80 lens just went in for repairs. I hope to have it back in about a week or so.
Here are the parts that arrived from Keg Connection today plus two ball locks that I had purchased last year from them.
Here is my new Kenmore 8.8cf chest freezer.
Four ball locks fit nicely on the floor and there is still room for a co2 tank on the floor also.
I popped the lids inner plastic liner and seal off.
I used some colored electrical tape to mark what wires went to where just in case my memory fails me later.
Today I spent maybe an hour unpacking everything,taking the lid apart, removing the lid and the hinges from the freezer to have better access to everything. I also took some accurate measurements of the lid and base so I can start messing around with some sketches to decide which way to go forward. My big decision is whether to skirt the front and sides of the freezer or just trim out the base nicely and allow the black freezer body to be visible. I really like the idea for the wood grain appearance but I am nit sure if I can pull it off to the degree that I would like it. I want to have this in my dining room or den when it is finished. I may have to enlist the help of my father and some of his wood working goodies that he has.
I marked all the wires to the lid but I am not sure if I will use any of them when I reassemble because it is just lighting and the passages to the coffin might need to be located where the light is. Not to mention I have not decided if I am going to retain the plastic lid liner or use a sheet of plywood like some others have.
Totals:
1 Kenmore 8.8cf chest freezer $300.68 with tax from Sears(on sale)
4 Premium faucet refrigerator ball lock conversion kit $280.00
2 Cornelius keg upgrade $99.90
1 Taprite co2 regulator dual body upgrade $35.00
4 525SS upgrade $100.00
1 16x5 Stainless drip tray with drain $79.95
2 additional kegs bought last year $107.85
Total to date: $1003.38
Time to date: 1 hour
Questions for the pros: How is everyone supporting the bolts through the lid that hold the top in place. The soft insulation and flimsy plastic liner will completely collapse with the slightest pressure. I was thinking about using a 3/8" plywood panel on the inside of the sheet metal lid to stiffen everything as well as distribute the load across the entire surface by sandwiching the metal. Then I could either slightly condense the original insulation and replace the plastic liner or use 1/2" plywood and 1" solid foam insulation under the plastic liner. That will also eliminate the unsightly screw heads from being visible. Does this sound like it would be strong enough?
First off, Thanks to Jester and the countless others who have worked out a lot of the details already. You surely will make my build easier than if I was to try it without such great resources.
I am going to try and keep a running tally of the total amount spent and also the time I spend on the project so other will have an idea what to expect in the future. Sorry about the crappy phone pictures but my Nikon D80 lens just went in for repairs. I hope to have it back in about a week or so.
Here are the parts that arrived from Keg Connection today plus two ball locks that I had purchased last year from them.
Here is my new Kenmore 8.8cf chest freezer.
Four ball locks fit nicely on the floor and there is still room for a co2 tank on the floor also.
I popped the lids inner plastic liner and seal off.
I used some colored electrical tape to mark what wires went to where just in case my memory fails me later.
Today I spent maybe an hour unpacking everything,taking the lid apart, removing the lid and the hinges from the freezer to have better access to everything. I also took some accurate measurements of the lid and base so I can start messing around with some sketches to decide which way to go forward. My big decision is whether to skirt the front and sides of the freezer or just trim out the base nicely and allow the black freezer body to be visible. I really like the idea for the wood grain appearance but I am nit sure if I can pull it off to the degree that I would like it. I want to have this in my dining room or den when it is finished. I may have to enlist the help of my father and some of his wood working goodies that he has.
I marked all the wires to the lid but I am not sure if I will use any of them when I reassemble because it is just lighting and the passages to the coffin might need to be located where the light is. Not to mention I have not decided if I am going to retain the plastic lid liner or use a sheet of plywood like some others have.
Totals:
1 Kenmore 8.8cf chest freezer $300.68 with tax from Sears(on sale)
4 Premium faucet refrigerator ball lock conversion kit $280.00
2 Cornelius keg upgrade $99.90
1 Taprite co2 regulator dual body upgrade $35.00
4 525SS upgrade $100.00
1 16x5 Stainless drip tray with drain $79.95
2 additional kegs bought last year $107.85
Total to date: $1003.38
Time to date: 1 hour
Questions for the pros: How is everyone supporting the bolts through the lid that hold the top in place. The soft insulation and flimsy plastic liner will completely collapse with the slightest pressure. I was thinking about using a 3/8" plywood panel on the inside of the sheet metal lid to stiffen everything as well as distribute the load across the entire surface by sandwiching the metal. Then I could either slightly condense the original insulation and replace the plastic liner or use 1/2" plywood and 1" solid foam insulation under the plastic liner. That will also eliminate the unsightly screw heads from being visible. Does this sound like it would be strong enough?