Correct. Rv filter is the better term. Dry yeast just needs rehydrating (search on this forum on how to best do this but essentially u are adding water to the yeast prior to your pitch to optimize its performance) whereas a liquid yeast would benefit from a starter ( which is quite different...
Good water (camper filter will take chlorine out), good yeast ( just rehydrate the dry stuff), good temp control (this is huge) and u will be on your way.
Just polished this brew off last night. One of the better beers I've made. I pitched low and let temp rise to 50. Dropping the temp will definitely slow fermentation. Was my first lager also. Pretty easy with temp control on the fermentation. Plenty of O2 and yeast made for a delicious beer...
Looking to add some fruit purée to the secondary of the next batch I make. Do I need to temp control the 2nd fermentation that will start up or can I just let it ride?
I've have screwed up a few brews and dry hopping has made them tolerable/enjoyable. Weren't the beers I was shooting for but they were more than drinkable.
I had a similar problem. Most kit are designed for partial boils. Full boil will cause better hop utilization. After checkin out a few calculators, I cut my bittering hop addition by about 1/3 while keeping the other hop additions the same. Seemed to make a huge difference for me.
Been using a 50 foot immersion chiller from the get go. Use a pond pump to recirc through 40 to 50 lbs of ice. Get from 212 to 60 in 40 mins or so on the 10 gal batch. If that's not quick enough I may need a plate chiller....?
Hey All,
after 20 or so brews I jumped up to 10 gal batches. Cant seem to get them clear. My 5 gal batches cleared brilliantly. Using whirlfloc, cold crashing just as always. Fairly certain its not suspended yeast. Very opaque. Bumped it off my LHBS and he felt it my be that my boil wasnt...