Recent content by coogee

I agree there's no substitute for letting the grain bed settle for 5 minutes, then vorlauf until the runoff is clear. I use a second drain valve after the pump to just runoff into a bucket with pump off, when it runs clear start the pump/switch valves to recirculate. This made all the...

Had been using a Corny but Better Bottle looks good.

I like wood, purely because it's been easy to modify as my set up has evolved over time. There's a health and safety aspect to that, having everything well situated, no hot and or electric components propped up on blocks or the like. I agree with the sentiment that the choice shouldn't be a...

And when someone says "subscribed", it's just a way of saying they are interested in the answer to your question too. Like "+1".

I would firstly wash the fresh cherries then freeze and secondary. It's worth noting you will lose some beer to the fruit and that the taste can be subtle, you need a fair amount of cherries. I've done it with Porters too with very nice results. The suggested 50% wheat bill looks best if you...

You can just flip a Sanke upside down, cut out the 'top' (was the bottom.) Instant bottom draining fitting, add plumbing to suit. Also makes for a possible bigger dump valve option to help clean-in-place. I prefer the idea of a bottom draining tun but mine is already side draining. I've never...

FWIW I have a pine collar and it's fine, looks OK and solid enough for the job but... for the sake of a few bucks, I regret my choice. It's a one-time operation so get something you're happy with and... live with it! Pine is perfect for that cheap furniture strapped to freezer look but it's the...

DMS is an obvious one http://www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/dms.htm But there's a whole world of debate about DMS boil times and malt types... Brew chemistry isn't my specialist area, there are much wiser posters on the subject here I'm sure. I just wanted to note that a 20 minute boil...

Boiling is for more than adding hops. Sterilization obviously but also driving off many compounds you don't want in your wort. FWIW I would never go under 60 minutes (I do 90) but there are rare exceptions and YMMV.

Thanks guys, I'll try to be more regimented in my approach, dial up PSI for a couple of days prior to bottling and aim for a 0.5 volumes loss as a start point. @OP - Sorry to divert from your problem. I still think repriming might be an easier option with so many bottles?

Same problem (Blichmann Beer Gun), less beers (only 20) My first try using it. Chilled Bottles. Beer was nicely, if just a little over, carbed. Using the Gun worked well. Maybe 1/2" or less of foam, easier to purge bottles with CO2, thought I was doing a great job. But cracked a few and very...

Others have chimed in already but since it is the hottest point and since I am continually recirculating, the HEX out is where I hit and maintain my target temperature. I do monitor my Mash temp and the two always equalize but you need to measure HEX out to control mash temp, if you do it the...

Ideally you want to be measuring temp at the HEX out, as it is the hottest part of the closed system. I use separate HEX, I prefer the modularity of that setup, I can skip it altogether or use it to chill. I can easily step mash. But both definitely have merit, whatever better suits your...

I'd be careful dropping boil times, you want to make sure you kill the bad guys and what about hot break, there's some important chemistry happening in them thar boil. 20 minute mashes make more sense, if you hit your percentages then it's long enough. I prefer to take my time but I have a...

It sounds fine to raise (or lower) mash temp but once you reach your desired temperature, then what? Might as well direct fire your Tun? Or you will have to keep letting the mash drop, then recirculate again etc. Which sounds pretty hands on but could work. I recirculate for 90 minutes but have...