So I read an article on late hopping on the mr malty website. After reading it, I made an American IPA with all late hop additions last week at 20, 10, and 5. When I went to dry hop it today it already smelled way hoppier than any other beer I've ever made. I'm excited for this one. What have your experiences been with late hop only additions?
Late hops
- Thread starter MacGruber
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Read the same article. Tried it last weekend on a Scotch Ale; Trying it this weekend on my standby IPA. Hops... oh yeah!
pao
pao
KuntzBrewing
Well-Known Member
I just did all late additions Monday and I could almost sit and smell my airlock all day lmao used 5 ounces in 20 minutes lol smells great...were all gonna be happy drinkers soon. I may never boil a hop for more than 20 minutes in an IPA again
tennesseean_87
Well-Known Member
Do you still boil for an hour?
Still boil for an hour and add a SMALL amount of hops for a sixty min addition (maybe half an ounce to an ounce for an IPA). Then you add large amounts of hops at 20, 10, and 5 (or whirlpool). It adds smooth bitterness and a huge aroma according to the article.
Calichusetts
Well-Known Member
Never read the article but flameout has been like a magnet, slowly attracting all my hop additions. I do a small 60, then every five minutes starting at 20...usually with a huge burst at flameout and a 20 minute steep.
I've been a big fan of the following:
Small charges at 60 and 30 min. (around 20 ibu each) and then at flameout- kill flame- begin whirpooling to knock out the boil (maybe 10 seconds) - toss in massive addition of flameout hops (2-4 oz depending of course) - whirpool and let stand in the covered kettle for 30 minutes.
He hop flavor and aroma is amazing from the 30 minute stand. Although it adds a half hour to the brew day, the results are well worth it. I tend to calculate the 30 minute hop stand as more of a 20 minute addition, because some alpha acid isomerization takes place, just less so than a typical boil addition. 20 minutes seems to taste about right, IBU wise. Love late hops.
Small charges at 60 and 30 min. (around 20 ibu each) and then at flameout- kill flame- begin whirpooling to knock out the boil (maybe 10 seconds) - toss in massive addition of flameout hops (2-4 oz depending of course) - whirpool and let stand in the covered kettle for 30 minutes.
He hop flavor and aroma is amazing from the 30 minute stand. Although it adds a half hour to the brew day, the results are well worth it. I tend to calculate the 30 minute hop stand as more of a 20 minute addition, because some alpha acid isomerization takes place, just less so than a typical boil addition. 20 minutes seems to taste about right, IBU wise. Love late hops.
alestateyall
Well-Known Member
I do this all the time. I do it for hoppy blondes (42-44 SG points). They are awesome. I have also done pale ales this way. For the blondes I have hops only at 15 and 0 minutes. For pales I start at 30 min.
No 60 minutes additions for me. I have gone up to 42 IBU (tinseth) all from late additions with good results.
No 60 minutes additions for me. I have gone up to 42 IBU (tinseth) all from late additions with good results.
I do this as well for my IPAs. I boil 90 minutes and add hops at 20, 10, 0 and dry. Got a 47 in a recent comp. Aroma 12 out of 12. This is the way to get huge hop aroma. If you are using high alpha hops you will get plenty of bitterness.
I've done a couple of 'hop bursted' IPAs, and love the results. The first hops go in at 20 minutes, with a schedule of 20/15/10/5/0/dryhop.
It's awesome!
It's awesome!
I just brewed my second batch of homebrew (6 malt amber ale) and will be bottling my first (India pale weizen) and I think my next brew of this, my inaugural season as a brewer, is going to be an IPA and given the comments on this thread so far, I intend to do all late boil additions as described. I just got some warrior hops that are begging to be used.
I love how much I learn just cruising these threads.
I love how much I learn just cruising these threads.
Just read the article. Pretty neat. I just bottled my 100% Cascade Session Pale Ale. 60min boil, 1oz at 20, 1/2oz at 15 and 10 and 1oz at 5. 3 weeks in primary and 2 weeks secondary dry hopped with another 2oz.
Smells divine and tastes great. Can't wait for this to carb up and get summer time on the patio cold.
Coincidentally it's the first brew that I hit (almost) all my target numbers. 1.045OG (1.0445 actually) and 1.011FG, yeah big 'ol 4.4%. Hmmm.. weird. Just realized it's also the first brew I've done entirely on my own.
Smells divine and tastes great. Can't wait for this to carb up and get summer time on the patio cold.
Coincidentally it's the first brew that I hit (almost) all my target numbers. 1.045OG (1.0445 actually) and 1.011FG, yeah big 'ol 4.4%. Hmmm.. weird. Just realized it's also the first brew I've done entirely on my own.
If you give me 1/2 lb. to 1 lb. of hops for an American IPA, you better believe I'm using them all late, or 95% of them late... and by late, I mean 10-5 minutes - Post-boil - Dryhop. Hopbursting works excellently for this style. You can easily get 100+ IBUs with 95-100% of late addition high-alpha, aromatic Pacific NW pellet hops.
HomebrewMTB
Well-Known Member
cabron99 said:
Why would you want big hop flavor on a Scotch ale? Scottish styles are typically more about malty sweetness, low bittering, with no hop flavor/aroma. Late hopping works great for hop heavy American styles. It's your beer though.
beerkrump
Well-Known Member
I just brewed a hop burst APA, og= 1.060 IBU=47. Here's the hop schedule...
0.5 oz Bravo (14%) @ 20 min
1 oz Sorachi Ace (11%) @ 10 min
1 oz Bravo @ 10 min
1 oz Sorachi Ace @ 5 min
1 oz Glacier (4.5%) @ 5 min
1 oz Sorachi Ace @ 0 min
1 oz Bravo @ 0 min
1 oz Glacier @ 0 min
I've been really tempted to take more hydrometer readings just so I can drink the sample.
0.5 oz Bravo (14%) @ 20 min
1 oz Sorachi Ace (11%) @ 10 min
1 oz Bravo @ 10 min
1 oz Sorachi Ace @ 5 min
1 oz Glacier (4.5%) @ 5 min
1 oz Sorachi Ace @ 0 min
1 oz Bravo @ 0 min
1 oz Glacier @ 0 min
I've been really tempted to take more hydrometer readings just so I can drink the sample.
Lately, I have only added hops 30 minutes and in for the last 3 batches of IPA. Most of the time it's about 6- 8 oz of hops. IMO keeps the bitterness down and the flavor and aroma high. I will probably continue to hop my IPAs like this until hop prices go up or I find a better way to add hop flavor and aroma.
SkinnyPete
Well-Known Member
Care to share the exact hops schedule you used, MacGruber? I read the same article and I'm definitely interested in trying this.
All hops added starting with 20 minutes left in the boil.
.5 oz Zythos for 20
.5 Cascade for 20
.5 Zythos for 10
.5 Simcoe for 10
.5 Cascade for 10
.5 Amarillo for 10
.75 Simcoe for 5
.5 Zythos for 5
.5 Centennial for 5
.75 Amarillo for 5
Dry hop
.75 Simcoe 7 days
.75 Amarillo 7 days
.5 Zythos 7 days
.5 Cascade 7 days.
It's AMAZING!
.5 oz Zythos for 20
.5 Cascade for 20
.5 Zythos for 10
.5 Simcoe for 10
.5 Cascade for 10
.5 Amarillo for 10
.75 Simcoe for 5
.5 Zythos for 5
.5 Centennial for 5
.75 Amarillo for 5
Dry hop
.75 Simcoe 7 days
.75 Amarillo 7 days
.5 Zythos 7 days
.5 Cascade 7 days.
It's AMAZING!
mewithstewpid
Well-Known Member
So why even bother boiling for 60min. Can't this be done with a 20 or 30 min boil ????
mewithstewpid
Well-Known Member
Can you give any examples ? I'm not sure what compounds you mean, as far as I understand as long as you have a hot break and cold break you are all set.
As for the sterilization, while that's true, a 20 min boil will kill all bacteria.
As for the sterilization, while that's true, a 20 min boil will kill all bacteria.
DMS is an obvious one
http://www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/dms.htm
But there's a whole world of debate about DMS boil times and malt types...
Brew chemistry isn't my specialist area, there are much wiser posters on the subject here I'm sure.
I just wanted to note that a 20 minute boil doesn't sound ideal from the POV of just looking at hopping schedules.
I'm sure Palmer would be a good resource on the subject.
http://www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/dms.htm
But there's a whole world of debate about DMS boil times and malt types...
Brew chemistry isn't my specialist area, there are much wiser posters on the subject here I'm sure.
I just wanted to note that a 20 minute boil doesn't sound ideal from the POV of just looking at hopping schedules.
I'm sure Palmer would be a good resource on the subject.
So do you boil it for 60 minutes or reduce the boil time. I am an extract brewer and I want to try hop bursting, but I'm a little confused how long the boil should be. Can you get away with a 30 min boil? Should I still do a 60 min boil? Does lme need to boiled for 60 min?
I tried this on an IPA I brewed last weekend - 1 oz FWH and then .5oz additions at 20, 15, 10, 5, and 0. Fermentation should be wrapping up shortly, i'm excited to give it a taste and see what if any dryhops are needed.
mewithstewpid
Well-Known Member
nice link, thanks!
I heard it depends on the amount of pilsener malt in the recipe. For instance, 80% pils may very well require a 90 minute boil, but not so much 10% pils- which you could probably get by with a 60 minute boil.
For extract brews, you only have to boil as long as the hops additions. So, for 20 minute hops, a 20 minute boil is fine. Extract doesn't need to boil, unlike wort made from grain.
rifraf
Well-Known Member
Yooper said:
Correct me if I'm wrong Yooper, but to clarify, even if you extract brew with steeping grains you don't need to boil any longer than your hop schedule.
