Recent content by Brew_Meister_General

I can never seem to tell whether I am getting full conversion or not. I put a few drops of iodine in a glass, add a few drops of wort but no matter what the liquid gets a bit darker and I can't tell whether this because of a small amount of starch still present or whether its just the yellow...

I currently do the same thing as well, use frozen treated water to hit my target volume, but with the extra space in my boiler I know I could stick a few ice packs in there assuming as long as they're made of the right kind of plastic

1 gallon freezer baggies, what do they look like?

The obvious one, water bottles, which are made from PET are not high heat resistant (200f max), and so when mixed with boiled wort may leech off solvents. What plastic containers could I use? I shy away from glass as I believe the thermal shock could cause it to break.

I ended up reading all the posts!

Would an extra week of exposure increase aroma or has it all been extracted during the boil? I always add all my aroma hops at flame out.

I'm going to try it for a laugh, 1 gallon batch! 1 bottle of Weihenstephan!

Perhaps its just the imperfections of our home brew masking any noticeable difference between the two beers (50f and 70f)

70f will be the ambient temperature, I just thought I'd like to try it. But I came across this exbeeriment where he pitches at 1.5m with the 34/70 (which I'm going to switch to), ferments one at 50f and another at 70f and astonishingly enough, finds very little different...

Fermenting at lager temps isn't a possibility so i thought I'd go for the 2124 as it can still operate well at 70f, 1.5m/ml/p seems like a lot for an ale temp, should I go for something in-between in order to create a cleaner profile whist avoiding possible off-flavours (1.0-1.25m)? Kolsh...

Brew United's yeast calculator advocates an inoculation rate between 25 and 100 million for 'best growth'. I often lean towards thinner starters (1.030) as this leads to 'healthier yeast' but consequently, a low (<25m) inoculation rate. Would a low rate impact the yeast in any way?

From the various sources I've looked at, a thinner mash leads to greater efficiency but only after the sparge, meaning the first runnings have a much lower gravity in comparison to a thick mash (1.25 qt/lb). This suggests you can reduce the ratio to maybe even 1lb/qt or use the second runnings...

I will be fermenting with the WY2124 Bohemian Lager at 70f and wondered what my pitch rate should be (m/ml) in order not to create too many esters from underpitching or too many fusels from overpitching. Thanks!

I decided to go with it, clarity wasn't what I was aiming for but rather as a benefit to the ageing

Yeah I decided to just stick to room temperature which falls down the middle of the recommended ageing temperature for secondary brett beers (60-70f)