SS RIMS tube

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ed what was the recommended filtration for the flow switches you bought? Most of the ones I am finding are at 100 microns which is 1/10 of a mm. Is that reasonable? I am sure if I did use the paint strainer bag trick it would take care of it.

-J

I think they are all pretty much the same.
I have not used mine yet. I don't plan to filter and I realize there is a bit of risk in that. Based on what I have seen SawDustGuy post, he does not filter and has not had a problem.

Ed
 
I concur that my recirc rate will be much higher than sparge, but Blichmann lists the MAX recirc rate for RIMS at 1 GPM for the 15 gallon Boilermaker, and 0.75 GPM for the 10 gallon kettle. I therefore assumed my rate would be under 1 GPM (my plans are to use a 15 gallon boilermaker for my mash/lauter tun with a final batch size typically around 7 gallons). I don't know where Blichmann got these figures from, but they're the only ones I've been able to find...

The ones I bought are adjustable. Similar to this one (I did not look up the specs on this one, but appears to have a .5 to 20gpm range)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Gems-Sensor-Flo...123?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cab9fa0f3
 
Hmmmm. Not plug and play. Will this thing handle 120v? 15A? I sure doesn't look like it.

I don't think you'd want it to handle 120v! In the simplest form, you'd put it inline in the SSR control wire from the PID. Alternatively, it could drive the coil on a relay to allow alarms, etc.
 
Up to this point I have been able to avoid wiring anything. Looks like I may be out on the flow switch thing. My PID is totally prepackaged from Aubrins. Bummer.

-J
 
Ed what was the recommended filtration for the flow switches you bought? Most of the ones I am finding are at 100 microns which is 1/10 of a mm. Is that reasonable? I am sure if I did use the paint strainer bag trick it would take care of it.

-J

I was worried about that at first and their was really no way to use a filter in a RIMS configuration because until the grain bed is set you will have some debris flow through the flow switch. I figured there was no way else to determine if it was a good solution other than to grit my teeth and give it an old fashioned try. Well the good news is that it worked. ED is correct, so far so good. Like Ed's experiment with a stuck mash or no flow, sometimes a little experimentation is in order. How do you think the methods for brewing today were developed?
 
I've known of brewers who switched from single infusion in a cooler to a RIMS or HERMS and at the same time went from making good beer to making thin harsh beer. Tannin extraction is my fear with high flow rates. It can happen. I just don't know at exactly what flow rate and what temperature that it can happen at.

-J

I don't quite understand that concearn. All a RIMS does is maintain the temperature of your mash. You heating element needs sufficient time to heat the mash water and we can not draw mash water too quickly as to force a stuck mash. That is where the PID comes in. The PID is set to heat the mash to a set temperature at a set flow. You can adjust the PID settings to accomplish this. I have no clue why you would expect tannin extraction and thin beers because of flow rate. Thinner beers happen when mashing at a lower temperature. If the RIMS is not maintaining the mash temperature, of course you will get thinner beer. Tannin extraction has more to do with mash pH and sparge temperature than recirculating using a RIMS. Learn to use your equipment no matter what it is and you will never have a problem.
 
You know Guy I could be wrong. I totally agree that learning your system is key. Good beer can be mad by the most primitive brewing system as long as the brewer knows how to run it. I feel like this is not the thread for the tannin part of the discussion and I probably should not have brought it up as it always gets things going.

Here is a piece of a conversation from HBD about tannin extraction. It took place about a year and a half ago and the author singed as -S. Until this conversation I also believed that pH drove tannin extraction to some extent. Now I understand it is likely the other way around.

It's well known that when using neutral sparge water the late runnings
have a rise in pH and at the same time phenolics and other less
desirable extract increases (as a percentage of extract) in the
runnings. The pH rise is explained by the loss of organic acids in
malt. The extraction of phenolics, cellulose and other less desirable
components is attributed to extensive malt cell membrane disruption.
There is NO EVIDENCE I've ever seen that keeping the sparge water
pH low prevents phenolic extraction. This correlation of phenolic
extraction & pH rise at same time does NOT imply that this slightly
lower pH *causes* phenolic extraction. It may, I can see some
hypothetical arguments to support the notion, but don't wager your
batch on this. We should consider the idea that low pH sparge water
prevents phenolic extraction as questionable,
take-with-a-grain-of-salt. Also very low or very high pH will cause
release of specific phenolic fractions. You are probably safe (wrt to
phenolics) using any sparge water pH between mash pH (say 5.3) and the
natural pH of the grain (~7.5); lower is certainly not better.
Alkaline water will increase the wort pH and that's not good for break
formation or for fermentation. *Do* remove carbonate buffering in
sparge water with acid, but the idea that lower pH prevents astringent
sparge is possibly just homebrew-voodoo, a sub-urban brewery legend.

Cheers,

-J
 
You know Guy I could be wrong. I totally agree that learning your system is key. Good beer can be mad by the most primitive brewing system as long as the brewer knows how to run it. I feel like this is not the thread for the tannin part of the discussion and I probably should not have brought it up as it always gets things going.

Here is a piece of a conversation from HBD about tannin extraction. It took place about a year and a half ago and the author singed as -S. Until this conversation I also believed that pH drove tannin extraction to some extent. Now I understand it is likely the other way around.

It's well known that when using neutral sparge water the late runnings
have a rise in pH and at the same time phenolics and other less
desirable extract increases (as a percentage of extract) in the
runnings. The pH rise is explained by the loss of organic acids in
malt. The extraction of phenolics, cellulose and other less desirable
components is attributed to extensive malt cell membrane disruption.
There is NO EVIDENCE I've ever seen that keeping the sparge water
pH low prevents phenolic extraction. This correlation of phenolic
extraction & pH rise at same time does NOT imply that this slightly
lower pH *causes* phenolic extraction. It may, I can see some
hypothetical arguments to support the notion, but don't wager your
batch on this. We should consider the idea that low pH sparge water
prevents phenolic extraction as questionable,
take-with-a-grain-of-salt. Also very low or very high pH will cause
release of specific phenolic fractions. You are probably safe (wrt to
phenolics) using any sparge water pH between mash pH (say 5.3) and the
natural pH of the grain (~7.5); lower is certainly not better.
Alkaline water will increase the wort pH and that's not good for break
formation or for fermentation. *Do* remove carbonate buffering in
sparge water with acid, but the idea that lower pH prevents astringent
sparge is possibly just homebrew-voodoo, a sub-urban brewery legend.

Cheers,

-J

If you reread my post I am not implying anything about the sparge water pH. It is the pH of the mash and or the temperature of the sparge water that extracts tannins.

From Palmers "How to Brew":

The temperature of the sparge water is important. The water should be no more than 170°F, as husk tannins become more soluble above this temperature, depending on wort pH. This could lead to astringency in the beer. [The temperature of the sparge water is important. The water should be no more than 170°F, as husk tannins become more soluble above this temperature, depending on wort pH. This could lead to astringency in the beer.

In any case Thin Beer or extracting Tannins has nothing to do with the RIMS.
 
Well Guy I am sticking with the idea that my element won't burn out if I get a stuck sparge, and rising pH is a result of over extraction and not the other way around. It will be interesting to see what Palmer has to say when his water book comes out (the one he is writing with Colin Kaminski) in a couple years. I listen to the guy on Brew Strong all the time and he has learned a ton since his the last edition of HTB was published. The pH thing actually came up once and Jamil said something along the lines of one time in one brewing trial researchers noticed a rise in tannin compounds in one beer that had a higher run off pH but there has never been a full trial run on it. It is in the archives if you want to listen to it.

I will say you could very well be right about there being no danger of tannin extraction from recirculation. I do not want to perpetuate or start some crazy homebrew voodoo. I mean hey, decoction happens without tannin extraction.

Thanks for the feed back. I am less worried about recirculation (which I have been doing since the first AG batch I did 4.5 years ago) now than I was before.

Cheers,

-J
 
They make pipe clamps specifically for triclover stuff...but they're hard to find. You could probably mount it like you would any other 2" pipe. Straps/Clamps, threaded rod, etc.
 
Any more idea's on how to mount a Tri-Clover RIMS tube? I just ordered one 2 weeks ago and was told 3 weeks, so I should be a week out!

I'm planning to mount mine by connecting a 1.5" tri-clover X 1/2" npt fitting diectly to my plumbing and then just clamping the rims tube to that tri-clover with a standard tri-clover clamp.

So really, I'm not mounting the tube, just the connector.

Ed
 
I guess I'm a little ghetto. My tube is mounted horizontally, with in/outs pointing up and stainless quick-disconnects. I attached it with big hose clamps. It's just tight enough to stay in place, but loose enough I can disconnect it from the pump system and rotate it so the outlets are down to drain, which is how I leave it between brews.

To clean, I pump my sparge water through it. I figure 45m or so of 170F water going through it should leave it pretty darn clean.

I did notice tannins pop up in my beer when I started using RIMS. I think the reason, however, is that for some dang reason my thermocouple and PID read about ten degrees high (which explains my high ending gravities and my tannin problems in the last two batches I brewed, we'll see how the latest one turns out knowing this discrepancy).
 
Back
Top